A Brief History of Chenonceau

The castle was originally built in 1513 but was later significantly embellished by Diane de Poitiers, the favorite courtesan of King Henri II. She was a brilliant woman and eventually had so much trust from the king that she had the authority to sign official letters, which she did as “HenriDiane.” Even the pope recognized her authority and influence over the king and included a gift for her when he sent the Golden Rose to the queen.

Queen Catherine had wanted the chateau for herself and was none too happy that it had been given to Diane. When the king was wounded during a joust, Catherine could finally act and had Diane banished from Chenonceau. Inside Diane’s former bedroom were the joined monograms of Henri and Diane. Catherine had them all altered so that they would look more like an H and C. Some of the alterations are more convincing than others.

While many chateaux were plundered during the Revolution, Chenonceau was spared thanks to the clever Madame Dupin who owned it and was living there at the time. It was no longer an official property of royalty, she explained to the crowd. She had filled the small chapel outside the entrance to the castle with wood so that she could pass it off as simply an area where she stored the necessary material for winter heating (not only were there antiroyal sentiments at the time but also anti-Church).

Thanks to this, most of the furnishings, statues, etc., inside Chenonceau are the actual pieces, unlike castles such as Versailles.

During World War II the chateau represented the border between occupied and free France.

If you’ve seen the movie Ever After, you have also been treated to some views of the chateau as some of the movie was filmed here.

Unlike most of the other castles in France, Chenonceau is privately owned. The Menier family, famous for their chocolates, has owned the estate for over the last 100 years.

Visiting Chenonceau

Unlike the Chateau de Chambord, this castle is much easier to get to. There is a train station at the end of the parking lot, so you can easily visit from Paris or elsewhere. The high-speed train takes just about 1 hour from the Montparnasse station in Paris. From the Chenonceau station, it’s a nice, short walk to the estate.

We visited during the height of the tourist season, and it was nowhere near as crowded as Versailles.

If you aren’t visiting as part of a tour, I definitely recommend paying the extra 4.5€ for the audio guide. There is a lot of interesting information you will miss without some sort of a guide. There are a few signs within the castle, but really they don’t give you much information at all.

I was very glad we came here as part of a tour, because I don’t think we would’ve learned nearly as much with even the audio guide.

Admission for adults is 12.5€ without the audio guide, and children ages 7 through 18 will need to pay 9.5€. The student discount (for adults) gives the same price as the children’s tickets. Night walks in the gardens are 6€ (under 7 years old are free).

They have preserved the old vegetable garden, and it’s interesting to walk around it. If you’re there at the right time of year, you will notice that there are some rather short apple trees. Apparently, they were hybridized this way so that women could maintain their modesty while picking the fruit.

As you approach the chateau, which is an impressive sight, you’ll notice an incredibly beautiful garden (well, if you’re there during the right season). This is Catherine’s garden. Diane’s garden will be to your left on the other side of the bridge. You’ll notice their two very different styles. When you’re in the chateau, make sure to look down on the gardens. The contrast is quite profound.

If the flowers are in bloom, you’ll notice many pink and blue flowers. Pink was Henri’s color (back then pink was for boys and blue was for girls). She had them planted to symbolize their unity as king and queen.

The chateau itself has such a tranquil feeling to it. Instantly it felt like a place I would want to live. You immediately slow your pace and long for a bench or something so you can just sit and soak it all in. It’s no wonder it was beloved by so many people.

One of the more interesting rooms in the chateau is known as The Black Room. Queen Louise, who was married to King Henri III, lived in the chateau and adored it. After the king was assassinated, she was so overtaken by grief that she had all the colorful furnishings removed from the room and replaced with black ones. The walls and ceiling were painted black as well. The walls were also decorated with symbols of mourning. She wore white (the royal color for mourning) until the day of her death and was also known as The White Queen because of this. She mourned him for the remainder of her life.

If you have extra time, you may want to consider renting a boat and spending some time on the river. If you’re traveling with younger children, you can also find a nice playground on the site.

There are some cafes and restaurants on the premises, and you can even do a wine tasting while you’re there.

Thoughts on Chenonceau

I absolutely adored the chateau. I actually like it more than Versailles.  Its simple elegance is inviting and soothing. Being able to sit and gaze at the woods and river through the windows is so tranquil. I would love to go back and spend more time just sitting in the gardens.

However, I think the highest praise comes from Tigger who despite being thoroughly “castled out” also loved it there and said it’s now his favorite castle.

If that doesn’t convince you to go there, I can’t imagine anything else will.

Have you been to the Chateau de Chenonceau? What was your favorite part or sight?

In fact, I might’ve said Paris was disappointing and I wasn’t interested in returning. That would have been a huge shame!

Paris is overcrowded in the summer

I could not believe how many more people were here in July than in April and January when I’ve visited before. In those previous visits, there were no lines for the Eiffel Tower. In summer, you’d be an absolute idiot to not have an advance ticket, and even then you’re going to have a significant wait time.

We had some friends who were visiting at the same time, and we went to Versailles since one of them had never been. Tigger and I went during a January, and there was not a single person in line. During my previous visit in an April, there were more people, but the longest wait was maybe 45 minutes.

In July? The line for people with tickets was at least 2-1/2 hours. My friend had forgotten to get her tickets online, and the line to purchase tickets was at least an hour. Ultimately, we decided waiting for 3-1/2 hours to enter the crowded palace and gardens just wasn’t worth it.

Things were definitely better when you got out of the typical tourist areas, but there were enough people that even at some parks it was difficult to find an unoccupied space on a bench.

It’s hot!

We had plenty of days where temperatures were in the 90s. The “real feel” was accentuated thanks to all the buildings and streets.

Fortunately, shade wasn’t too hard to find, and humidity wasn’t a big factor most of the time, but it could still take a toll on you, especially when you consider most places are not air conditioned. I still don’t get the apparent European fear of A/C.

Public transportation can be miserable

The Paris metro can get pretty crowded during the off season, so it isn’t any surprise that it’s even worse during the summertime high season.

Summer also seems to mean increased construction projects, which means that you can expect to have to plan for detours frequently. Not only were there stations where a specific line wasn’t going to be available, but we saw entire lines completely shut down. Most of the time, these were documented in Google Maps or the Paris transportation app, but not always.

And that “not always” will, of course, be the moment when you’re pressed for time and no one is around to try to help you figure out the best reroute.

I’m speaking from experience with this one.

Added to all the above, and the occasional strike, you can expect to boil while in the trains. They are not air conditioned, and the tiny open windows just can’t move enough air to accommodate the massive amount of human bodies crammed into such a tight space.

When is the best time to visit Paris?

Summer does have some special offerings. For instance, on July 14th (Bastille Day, and my birthday), there is an incredible light and fireworks show at the Eiffel Tower. It is an absolutely amazing experience, especially if you’re somewhere comfortable that has a good view. (To get a good seat close to the tower, you have to show up before around 2-3 PM, and the show starts at 11 PM. That’s a lot of waiting.) Many of the fire stations open up to the public and host balls as part of the July 14th celebrations as well.

However, I’m still going to say that pretty much any time that isn’t summer is the best time to experience Paris. Fall and winter are much less crowded. Spring is absolutely wonderful, so you may have a bit more people to deal with than in the other off seasons, but it’s worth it in my opinion.

You can still enjoy the City of Light in the winter, but it just isn’t as glorious as spring when she’s adorned with all the flowers, and the trees are in their verdant state.

Winter adds a potential extra wrinkle because when it snows many of the gardens will shut down until the snow has melted. This kept us from visiting a few places I wanted to show Tigger on his first visit, so it can have an impact.

If you’re planning on visiting splendid Paris for the first time, shoot for spring or fall. You’ll be glad you did.

What has your experience been visiting Paris in different seasons? Which is your favorite?

Neither of us are fans of guided tours, except for perhaps a food tour; however, I noticed that they build in free time to explore on your own at each stop, so I felt more comfortable with that. It turns out the Chateau de Chambord has a rather quirky and interesting history, and I was so thankful we visited as part of a tour. Our guide (Adam) was absolutely incredible.

The chateau and estate are being renovated. They completed one portion last year, 2015 is a gap year, and they’ll be working on the other side of the castle beginning in 2016. I was happy we went when there wasn’t a bunch of scaffolding.

As is the case with most monuments, palaces, etc., in France, Chambord isn’t just a castle museum. They have different activities throughout the year, including a large flea market on the grounds every May 1st. The park around the estate has multiple bike and pedestrian paths, and you can also hire a boat. You can go horseback riding, too.

Background of Chateau de Chambord

This castle was never intended to be a permanent residence. King Francois I had it built as a hunting lodge, and construction began in 1519. Francois was very fond of Tuscany and reportedly employed popular Florentine designers to come up with the plan. Leonardo da Vinci is even rumored to have participated in some of its design. It’s easy to imagine that he was behind the structure’s double-helix staircase. Apparently, Francois I and Leonardo were very close, and the French king is credited with having helped spread the Renaissance movement.

This staircase is just one of the many quirky attributes of the castle. Its design ensured that someone going up the stairs would be unseen by another person descending at the same time. It’s assumed that this was ultimately to help Francois enjoy his philandering escapades more easily.

The castle, which was the inspiration for the chateau in Disney’s Beauty and the Beast, had several owners and long periods of abandonment.

Francois wanted the chateau to appear like a city’s skyline which explains the many towers and spires.

The longest period of use was from 1725 to 1733 when the exiled Polish King Stanislas Leszczyńsk (Stanislas I), the father-in-law of King Louis XV, lived there. I guess if you’re acclimated to Polish winters, the Loire Valley isn’t so difficult.

Chambord’s . . . issues

Francois reigned for 32 years and began construction on his lodge four years into his reign, but he only spent a total of seven weeks at Chambord. There were some financial reasons that delayed construction at times, and his capture and imprisonment reduced some of the possible time he could spend there, but I think that short time period really highlights there were some real problems with the chateau.

Initially, the castle was not a place people enjoyed visiting mostly due to its bizarre Tuscan architectural design. As you might imagine, Tuscan buildings have a much different design than ones better suited for the Loire Valley. They tend to be more open and airy as Tuscany don’t have the harsh winters that this region of France can experience. When everything around you is freezing, having open spaces in a building just isn’t practical. The fireplaces were designed more for show than function, too, which isn’t an ideal setup.

To add to an already long list of discomforts, the staircases for moving between rooms are also located outside the wings, so one is exposed to the elements, and watchful eyes, every time they need to move to another floor.

The location of the huge estate (about the size of Paris!) wasn’t great either as there was no nearby village, so there was no immediate source of food except game. This meant that they had to bring almost all their food, enough for roughly 2000 people, with them when the king visited Chambord.

Today, the inside sports some interesting graffiti carved into its walls and is also used to exhibit contemporary art.

Visiting the Chateau de Chambord

The chateau is about a 2-hour drive from Paris.

Between April and October, there is a shuttle from the nearest train station (about 25 minutes away) to the chateau grounds. The train ride from Paris to this station (Blois-Chambord) takes about 1 hour 40 minutes.

Due to its fairly remote location, you might want to consider a tour if only to remove the transportation hassle. However, I recommend visiting the chateau as part of a tour anyway because you really won’t get the same amount of information and history from the audio guides.

Admission (without a tour) costs 11€. Children under 18 are free. There are many ways to qualify for a reduced or free admission as well.

Comments about City Wonders

It takes a lot to impress me, especially with guided tours. While we were guests of the company on the tour, I wasn’t asked to review them or specifically include anything in my post. However, our experience was so good that I wanted to take the time to include some specifics we really enjoyed:

• Email confirmation was very thorough. The meeting place was clearly explained, and the email contained maps, written instructions, and even photos of the meeting point despite the location being very obvious.
• When the big bus pulled up, I was initially a bit concerned. I didn’t want to be part of a mega tour group. Then the guides introduced themselves, and I realized they were splitting our large group into two smaller ones. There were about 8 people in each group which is really manageable.
• We had an early morning start since it’s a full-day tour. Our guides were sensitive to that and didn’t talk the whole time so that people could nap.
• We visited 3 sites, and at each site we were given ample time to explore on our own. The guide gave us great information during the tour, and after that we were reminded what time we should be back at the bus. This was superb for me especially as that meant I didn’t have to feel rushed while taking photos. I could easily return to spots where I wanted to give more attention and avoid areas that just didn’t interest me.
• Our guide was a tremendous source of information and fun facts. Any time he was sharing anecdotal information, he made sure we knew this so it wasn’t coming across as an “academic fact.” He was very humorous and gave really good background information. I felt like I learned a lot of interesting French history in a short time.

For a visit of this nature, I would recommend going as part of a tour, especially if you aren’t staying in the valley. I can definitely recommend that City of Wonders be the company you go with. This tour was one of our better experiences over the last several years, and Adam was the best guide we’ve ever had.

Tigger gave the complete tour experience a 9/10 if you want the teen perspective.

Have you visited Chateau de Chambord? If so, what was your favorite part?

Transportation

Mass Transit

Public transportation is extremely popular in Paris, and they have a very robust system for getting around. For the most part, one ticket is all you need. They are generally transferable between modes of transportation. This means you can take a bus to the metro station, hop on a train, and ride the funiculaire all on the same ticket.

When arriving or departing via the main airport (CDG), you can get to/from your accommodation on the same ticket since it also covers Paris city transportation. In 2015, the ticket costs 10€. There are various options from the other airports.

Given how rough Paris traffic can be, you’ll probably arrive at your destination much more quickly via this route, and it can save you as much as six times the amount you’d spend on a taxi.

I have read several writers claim that getting the various daily passes (1, 3, 5, etc.) is the absolute cheapest way to travel in Paris, and I am going to disagree. If you are using the system for more than 6 trips a day, then yes that is the cheapest. However, as Paris can be quite walkable, I find that I use the metro maybe 3-4 times a day.

Paying full price for each trip would cost 7.20€ total for 4 trips while the 1-day pass costs 11.15€.

If you purchase a carnet, it’s even cheaper. The carnet is a pack of 10 tickets and costs 14.10€ (versus 18€ if you bought 10 individual tickets). The additional bonus with the carnet is that if you only use 3 tickets in a 1-day period, you still have 7 others whereas the pass will expire regardless of how little it was used.

Also, the pass can only be used by 1 person. So two people using a daily pass each is going to cost over 22€ whereas buying a carnet would give you each 5 trips for just over 14€. A carnet would often last us up to 3 days. A 3-day pass is 24.80€. Over 10€ more expensive!

On our last trip to Paris, I easily saved over $12 USD by purchasing carnets.

Taxis

If you just don’t want to deal with the metro, buses, etc., I’d recommend using Uber over the regular taxis. In looking at estimated fares for various routes, Uber often charged about half. This method does requires that you have a smartphone with at least WiFi access, though.

One of the other benefits with Uber is you don’t have to have cash or your card on you. When you set up your account, you store your payment info through the app, and it will charge you after the ride is complete.

Bicycles

If you’re more adventurous, you can make use of the handy Vélib rental system. A day pass costs 1.70€. The bikes are free for the 1st half hour of each trip. When your time is getting close, you can park the current bike at a station and get a new one. It pays for itself in just the 1st use when compared to using the metro or bus.

If you have a chipped debit/credit card, you can buy your pass at the machine. Otherwise, you will need to buy your pass online.

Saving Money on Food and Beverages

There are some basic tips that can go a long way in stretching your budget while still eating and drinking well.

• Get food in the grocery store. Almost every store has pre-made sandwiches for cheap. Or you can pick up some fresh bread (another staple in France), cut meats/salami, cheese, etc., and have a nice picnic. You can often get a sandwich, chips, and a drink for around 4-5€. Buy drinks here as well. A can of soda in the grocery store is usually half the cost of what you’ll find at shops, bakeries, and so on.
• Get crepes.  Crepes aren’t just for dessert. You can get savory crepes that are quite filling and cost 2-5€ (depending on which ingredients you select). They’re quick to get and easy to take on the go. If you’re traveling with finicky people, crepes are generally a people pleaser.
• Visit the boulangerie. These bakeries usually have a nice selection of prepared sandwiches, and they typically cost around 2-3€. Many of them also have personal-sized pizzas for sale.
• Don’t drink at bars/pubs if you want to save money. The markup is huge, even during happy hour. For instance, a can of Guinness in the store is usually around 2€ while in the bar it can cost 9€.
• Make use of the duty-free shop at the airport. Liquor is heavily taxed in France. I saved about 10€ by buying a couple of bottles of liquor/spirits there instead of in the city. This does not, however, apply to wine.
• Buy wine in the grocery stores. France is one of the places where good wine is incredibly cheap. I have often found that a 2-3€ bottle of wine in France easily outdoes a $20+ bottle in the US. In Paris, don’t let low prices on wine scare you.
• Eat out at lunch instead of dinner. You’re in France so obviously you want to eat out at least some of the time. And crepes for every meal can get old. One of the French customs I enjoy is the practice of the leisurely lunchtime. Workers often escape the office for an hour or more for lunch. Because of this, most restaurants have really great prix fixe menus at lunchtime. I’ve seen 3-course meals, including a drink, for as low as 9€. Generally speaking, you can expect the average to be around 11-15€, though. I recently splurged and ate at a more expensive place and had: tomato and onion salad, lots of bread, soda, a glass of wine, a huge portion of moules frites (mussels and french fries), and a large portion of crème caramel for 24€. Considering the quality, it was a great price. Dinners in “sit down” restaurants will almost always cost more.
• Get out of the tourist areas. Walk for about 5 minutes in almost any direction away from a heavily touristed area, and you’ll easily find much better prices (and better tasting food). The more popular the sight, the more expensive the food (11€ for a crepe near the Eiffel Tower, for example).
• Walk a bit more. From what I’ve seen, any food place next to a metro entrance/exit charges more. Go down the street a bit for more reasonable prices. Also, places on main thoroughfares tend to be pricier.

Tips for grocery stores

• I’ve found the best prices at Leader Price and Dia stores. Lidl has great prices, too, but they’re tougher to find. Generally speaking, I have found the Monoprix and Franprix to have higher prices, although their meat quality is often better.
• Fruit stands/shops and fresh markets are usually a bit cheaper, but their quality is better than what you usually find at the supermarkets. I rarely get produce at the big stores. It just doesn’t taste as good.
• Always have a plan A, B, and C for stores in your neighborhood. Some will close on Sunday, others on Monday. Some have full hours on Saturday while others will shut down early. If you’re staying in an area with a large population of immigrants, Friday may be the day you have a hard time finding shops that are open.
• If you have access to a microwave, the store Picard is a frozen foods store. Their meals are rather good quality, and the prices are very reasonable.

Museums and Monuments

Prices vary widely for museums in Paris. Some will offer free admission to anyone who is 18 or under. Usually anyone between the ages of 18 and 26 with a student ID card will have a reduced rate. Some museums, like Musée Carnavalet, are free.

It’s always a good idea to check their website for the various admission prices and to see what methods qualify for free or discounted admission. Also make sure to check for closures. Many sites are closed on Monday, and sometimes they have special events.

Most museums have free admission on the first Sunday of each month. Just keep in mind these days can get quite crowded in the more popular places.

The Paris Info site has a great list showing which museums and monuments are always free as well as which ones offer free days. They also include free tours, concerts, etc. It’s a great reference.

Museum Pass

This is one of those things that can definitely save you money if you plan on visiting a lot of the sites in and around Paris. The Paris Museum Pass gives you access to most of the museums and monuments in Paris. In addition to potentially saving money with them, you often also get to use a priority line meaning that you can get right in instead of waiting for an hour (or longer).

And sometimes it gets you in when they’re closed! On my first trip to Paris, I went to the Musée Rodin. The ticket office was closed as they were hosting a private event in the gallery. However, since I had the museum pass I didn’t need to buy a ticket so they let me into the other areas of the museum.

The pass also works at various sites outside of Paris, like Versailles, Fontainebleau, etc., and may include use of the audio tours.

Again, if you plan on visiting many of these places, you could save a significant amount of money with the pass. If you only plan on seeing two or three, then it may not be in your best interest. (Although, being able to use the priority entrance could change your mind.)

Lodging

The best tip I can give on this one is to not visit Paris during the high season (summer is especially bad). Prices go way up for traditional lodging. Airbnb places, however, seem to not see as much of a drastic increase.

Paris is definitely one of those places where having access to a kitchen and refrigerator are going to save you a lot of money. Remember that special lunch I had? Well, I could get 2-3 days of groceries for that same price.

Yes, it makes that big of a difference.

As one might expect, prices go down the farther you are from the center. If you’re looking for that quintessential Parisian experience, though, you may not want to go too far out. For example, the 18th and 19th arrondissements (districts) are much more heavily populated by immigrants and the feel is more unique to that cultural mix. But the savings can be quite remarkable. We stayed at an Airbnb place in the 19th that cost less than $30 USD per day. That is a steal for Paris, but I now wish I had spent more money and stayed in a different area. It just didn’t have the feel I love from other areas of the city.

Sometimes you have to weigh out the pros and cons of saving money versus having the ultimate Parisian experience you’ve perhaps dreamed about.

If you have questions, feel free to ask in the comments. Or share your own tips!

I don’t see any reason to feel differently at 47.

As we’ll have close to 2 weeks to spend in Paris, and perhaps some other areas, I’ve been researching to find some Paris attractions I haven’t experienced yet. Here are some of the ones I’m planning on visiting.

I read about La Promenade Plantee, a park that was built on almost 5 km of old rail that stretches from the Bastille area to the Bois de Vincennes, the largest public park in Paris which is also home to the Château de Vincennes. I think this would be a lovely walk, especially in summer when some of the flowers should be in bloom.

I also plan on spending time on the Canal Saint Martin and that area. I haven’t spent too much time there yet, and I’d love to check it out. Supposedly, it’s a good locale for sampling microbrews, too.

I’ve always been interested in checking out the Paris “beaches” as well. These artificial beaches get constructed along the Seine during the summer. So far my visits to the City of Light have been during the spring or winter, so I haven’t had the opportunity to check them out. I’m not too sure about a beach where you can’t enter the water, but I’m still looking forward to it.

The Ste-Etienne-du-Mont church is reported to have some really unique and gorgeous stained glass windows. Even though I’m not religious, I do like visiting old churches. I find their construction fascinating, especially ones like this that have connections going back into the mid 1400s.

Some spots I’m not so sure about

I love visiting cemeteries, but I’m not too sure I’ll be visiting the canine cemetery. Although, some of the photos I’ve seen on Google are quite interesting.

The Museum of Carnival Arts looks kind of interesting as well but also kind of creepy.

A friend of mine has recommended the sewer tour, but even though I’m a big fan of the quirky, I’m just not too sure about this idea.

Do you know of some unusual Paris attractions that might be interesting to experience? Would you do the sewer tour?

Museums

Paris could also be called the City of Museums. I wouldn’t be surprised if the official count exceeded one hundred. The Louvre is probably the most well known, but for me it was just visual overload. By the time I got to the paintings, I just wasn’t that interested anymore. Their collection of sculptures is absolutely fantastic, though. Here are some museums that aren’t as crowded and are worth the visit.

Musee d’Orsay

This former rail station has been transformed into a beautiful setting for a tremendous collection of art from the mid 19th and early 20th centuries. The sculptures are displayed in a wide, open fashion which allows you to appreciate them at a slower pace and from various angles. Unlike the Louvre, this museum doesn’t get as much attention. I visited in the springtime, and there were no crowds and no line to enter.

Musee Rodin

This is a very unique museum in that a small part of the collection is indoors and a very interesting collection is located in a garden environment. Rodin is probably best known for his sculpture Le Penseur (The Thinker); however, that piece was just part of another incredibly elaborate work known as The Gates of Hell, which was based on Dante’s Inferno. There are so many elements of this fine sculpture, that you can spend a good amount of time just staring at this black gate.

This is another museum which doesn’t get nearly the traffic as other museums and consequently is a very enjoyable experience.

Panthéon

Located near the absolutely fabulous Luxembourg Gardens, this building houses some very interesting items. Foucault conducted his demonstration of the earth’s rotation in this building, and you can see the pendulum in operation (although the original sphere is actually located in a different museum).

There are beautiful murals depicting part of the ancient history of Paris as well as some of France’s accomplished and historical figures, such as St. Joan of Arc (my favorite saint).

Interred within the massive structure are some of France’s most important historical people such as Voltaire, Madame Curie, and Louis Braille. Alexandre Dumas’ remains were interred here in 2002, an act that was seen as an important recognition, and righting, of the racism that plagued France during his time. Although this particular problem seems to still be a significant issue in the country, unfortunately.

The building is worth a visit on its own merits.

Parks & Gardens

Luxembourg Gardens

This is probably my favorite park in all of Paris. The statues, fountains, great expanse, flowers, trees, etc., just create such a fantastic atmosphere. When I think of “enchanted gardens,” Luxembourg is what comes to my mind immediately.

Parc Monceau

This smaller park is located in the 8th arrondissement. The main entrance is a rotunda with a gilded gate. There is so much character to this park, and it is filled with mostly locals which gives it a different feel for visitors. If you enjoy people watching, I think I prefer this park the most.

Les Tuileries

Located near the Bastille, Concorde, and the Louvre, these gardens are well placed. In the warmer months, you can find lots of fun things to do in the park with kids. Seats are placed near some of the larger fountains so that you can just relax. Impromptu concerts by street performers are not uncommon here. It’s definitely worth a visit.

Bois de Boulogne

This wooded park is located in the 16th arrondissement and is quite lovely. Things can get a bit sketchy at night, so I’d visit earlier in the day when you’re more likely to be able to enjoy the surroundings. There are lots of great paths for walking, running, skating/blading, and biking.

Père Lachaise Cemetery

This cemetery is quite famous for being the location of Jim Morrison’s grave as well as Oscar Wilde’s emasculated tomb. The latter has had so many people kissing it, and was vandalized, that there is now a barrier preventing lip prints from Wilde’s admirers. I’m glad I got to visit it before the barrier was put up even though I wasn’t about to plant my lips on his tomb.

Some of the tombs are impressive pieces of art, and even if you aren’t a die-hard fan of anyone buried here, it’s worth a visit just to look at all the history and the rather ornate burial places. Some of the statues in this cemetery could easily be part of a museum collection.

Versailles

A great day trip from Paris, this town and palace are both worth the visit. While you can get there easily by train, some people will be bold and do a car hire so they can visit some of the local villages and towns as well.

One can easily spend more than a day just visiting the palace and its grounds. This is one of the few places in the world that I can say actually took my breath away when I first saw it. I’ll never forget the moment when I turned a corner and saw the palace in the distance. I stood mesmerized for a few moments before I could continue walking.

The main palace, the adjacent buildings, the gardens, and the fountains are absolutely amazing to see. Between April and October, you can see the fountains in action, but they’re beautiful even if the water isn’t flowing while you’re there.

If you come in winter, make sure to check their website before heading out. If there is snow on the ground, they tend to close the gardens, and frankly I’m not sure I’d visit if you can’t access the gardens. You’ll only be able to view the main palace in that case, and really you need the whole picture.

Eiffel Tower

One of the most touristy places in the world, but it’s worth it. I’ve been on the tower at least 5 times, and I never tire of seeing it. Yes, it can get incredibly crowded, but it’s an experience you just have to have in my opinion. Make sure to visit at night as well so you can see the light show.

Churches

Ste. Chapelle

Everyone knows about Notre Dame. While it is an impressive structure, and the interior is quite lovely, not a lot of people visit the much smaller Ste. Chapelle located on the island part of the city. It has incredibly beautiful stained glass windows and fantastic architecture.

When coming to visit, also stop at the Conciergerie nearby. This building was once part of the royal palace and served as a prison. The interior is quite interesting as is its history.

Sacré-Cœur

This is my favorite landmark in Paris. It is so different from every basilica I’ve visited, and there’s just something about the Montmartre neighborhood that speaks to me. When I want my mind to be instantly transported to Paris, I just think of this beautiful church.

Basilica of St. Denis

This is a large medieval church located just outside the city of Paris. It is one of France’s monuments as most of the former monarchs of France are entombed here. It’s really quite a fascinating place to see and worth the short trip out of the city.

What are some of your favorite Paris attractions?

We began our visit to the French Riviera in Marseille which turned out to be a fairly mediocre experience. We have some friends who live in a 500-year-old house in a small town east of here called La Garde, and we headed there next.

Photo courtesy of Annie Andre

La Garde

This relatively small town, which is found just a short distance from Toulon (and an easy train ride from Marseille), is the epitome of a small, rural French town. People are incredibly friendly. The thrice weekly local market is a place for locals to not only stock up on fresh produce and odds and ends, but also to socialize.

If your previous experience with French people is that they are not that friendly, please come here so you can see that is, despite the rumors, just not true. Here you will find people who will easily smile and laugh with you. Rather than be irritated with your lack of ability to speak French, or your very questionable accent, they will work around the communication barriers.

La Garde is a blue collar town, and in typical rural French fashion it becomes a veritable ghost town on Sundays and Mondays. It’s the kind of place where you can walk around at night without concern and where your kids can play outside without needing you to hover.

At a local park in the evenings, you can enjoy the jet d’eau, a series of fountains that people can frolic in. If you aren’t there in the summer, and maybe even then, you’ll probably have the place to yourself.

There are lots of outdoors activities, and you’ll definitely have no problem finding fresh food. Make sure to walk around the old section of town, too. Just look for the castle remnant on a tall hill. It isn’t hard to spot.

And, of course, you can get plenty of beach time here.

Hyères

Hyères is known as the City of Palms. Once you walk around its medieval streets, or even the modern ones, you’ll have no problem understanding how it got that name.

It is a hotspot for French tourists but remains off the typical path for many foreign tourists. In addition to having some wonderful nature around it, the town has lots of culture, and offers great year-round activities. Although, you may need to slip on a wetsuit for some of them outside the summer months.

Aside from the wonderful local markets, they have some wonderful beaches that are packed with activities—wind surfing, Jetski, sailing, dolphin spotting, scuba diving, sea kayaking, and more.

The medieval section of town is absolutely charming and offers you a slice of French life you may not have seen before.

If I were going to move to the south of France, I think this would my top choice city. It has such a great vibe and feel to it, and it’s absolutely beautiful. Not to mention it’s a place that could easily keep you busy.

It’s a great area for nature lovers, and it’s located not far from the French Riviera big hitters such as Cannes and Nice.

I really would’ve liked to have had more time to explore this region more deeply, and when I return to France that is high on my list of things to do. The French Riviera has so many wonderful cities and towns. It’s rather unfortunate that the parts that get highlighted are the activities for the rich and famous because towns like these have so much more to offer, and the Provencal culture is so lovely and incredibly laidback.

Have you visited the French Riviera? Did you explore the smaller cities or stick with the more famous cities?

On our first full day, we headed to the old port area and explored the various neighborhoods. I was really surprised at the large number of Middle Eastern and African shops, restaurants, etc. In fact, we had a hard time finding any restaurant serving Provençale food.

Eventually, we came upon a Senegalese place which seemed pretty interesting. Tigger was game, and we both really enjoyed the food.

The old neighborhoods and buildings were quite interesting. There is a lot of history in this area. We had planned a trip to see the Chateau d’If, an island castle fortress turned prison made famous by The Count of Monte Cristo. Unfortunately, because of heavy winds they had closed the castle.

During the rest of our time in Marseille, we continued to try to find a restaurant serving regional cuisine, and it was extremely difficult. The vast majority of eateries were places serving sandwiches, pizza, burgers, and kebabs.

Marseille felt so different from other areas of France that it, well, didn’t really feel French. It definitely felt Mediterranean instead.

We left Marseille to visit a friend living in La Garde. As we discussed our experience in Marseille, I discovered it matched theirs as well. Annie and her family had lived in Marseille for 10 months, and they had the same observations and frustrations that we did during our visit.

They do have a pretty good public transportation system which makes exploring the city pretty easy. We managed to to visit a few markets near the old town and that was really fun. There are also lots of places selling various flavors of granitas, and Tigger was quite happy about that part of it.

Overall, though, Marseille was just a meh experience. We’ve enjoyed the other towns in the region much more. It seems to be one of those places that people either really like or just didn’t care for, and the latter view seems to be shared by many of the people in nearby towns as well.

Have you been to Marseille? What was your experience like?

The coastline of northern France will forever be closely associated to the two World Wars. These beaches saw thousands of allied troops coming ashore from across the English Channel (or La Manche if you are French) to free France. And still today, from Calais in the north along the coast to Mont Saint Michel in the west, physical remains stand as a permanent reminder of some of the battles that made up these two devastating wars.

The ‘pool of reflection’ at Omaha Beach American Cemetery.

Just under two thousand years earlier these very same shores were the site of another well-known military manoeuvre, but then in the the opposite direction and leaving a lot less material evidence. That time it was the Romans invading Britain. Northern France may not have some of the spectacular Roman sites you can see in the south of France, some of which are the best preserved of their kind from the Roman era, but the Roman archaeology here certainly matches anything you might find from Roman Britain.

Traffic across the English Channel initially had a military focus as the Romans sought to establish their province. In time this developed into an important commercial route, as it still is today. Everything from food and wine, luxury items made from glass and pottery, and other essentials for establishing a Roman way of life was transported from the Mediterranean, through what is now France and then across the channel.

Consequently, a number of settlements were established along the French coastline, that over time became important commercial centres. And these cities were in turn supported by a vast network of rural towns and villages that sought to protect Rome’s strategic interest in the area. And many of these old Roman towns are still inhabited today.

Renovations and development at the Roman amphitheatre at Lillebonne, near the mouth of the Seine River. What was once a fenced off site, will soon re-open allowing access and a visitor’s centre.

Increasingly, archaeologists are recognising the potential of these sites as attractions, for locals and tourists. And, of course, children love the Romans. Long gone are the days when archaeological remains were fenced off and you were lucky if there was an information panel to read. Now there are villages eager to make the most of their town’s heritage.

So it is not unusual to find a very good, albeit small, museum in some unlikely places. These are not dusty, renovated old buildings filled with boring glass cabinets. They are purpose-built local museums that have gone to great lengths to appeal to all ages, more often than not with engaging activities and a programme of events for children.

Vieux La Romaine

One of these Normandy villages built amongst the Roman ruins is Vieux-la-Romaine, just south of the city of Caen. Archaeologists are still finding all sorts of features from the Roman city. Whereas once the ruins would have been reconstructed following foundations, today these remains are stabilised and left as is.

An 19th century reconstructions of a Roman villa.

Recently excavated foundations of a townhouse.

Vieux-la-Romaine Museum.

Here the foundations of Roman houses and reconstructions of ancient features are side-by-side with more recent houses that villagers have been living in for centuries, as well as a few new-builds. The state of the art museum is only a few years old, and is a good place to start before going on a walking tour of the village.

Briga Gallo-Roman City

Also on offer for visitors to the area are sites where there are ongoing excavations. During the summer months, some of these not only offer guided tours of the excavations in progress, but they also have events where visitors can get involved. One of these is the ancient city of Briga, which is just above the modern city of Eu at the mouth of the Bresle River.

Successive foundations of religious structures at Briga, Normandy.

What started out as a military camp next to a Celtic shrine became one of the most important religious centres in the area. After a few decades of work here, archaeologists are only just starting to get an idea of how important the city was. It is vast, and for the really interested for 4€ you can take a tour that last about 2 hours taking in Roman baths, a theatre, the market square, and the remains of what was a small shrine but ended up as a large basilica.

Don’t forget the museums …

Terracotta figurine in the Musée de Picardie, Amiens

Besides numerous sites to visit, there are also some excellent collections of Roman artefacts in various departmental and local museums. One of the best is the museum in Amiens, which was one of France’s first regional museums and art galleries. Although there is nothing left of the Roman city on view on Amiens today, the museum is a must-see, if only for the amazing collection that have built up over the years from more recent development in the city—much of it destroyed in World War I. Further south in Normandy, the Departmental Museum of Archaeology in Rouen has all the artefacts that have been recovered from excavations in Lillebonne. The collection of  mosaics are worth the 6€ entry fee alone.
Thomas Dowson founded the website Archaeology Travel – part travel blog, part online guide to archaeological sites and museums around the World. Before this he was an active archaeologist, specialising in prehistoric art and the contemporary significance of the past – on which he has published numerous articles and books. When not searching out ruins of the past or looking for the influence of archaeology on contemporary architecture, Thomas lives in Normandy, France.
To read more about Thomas’s archaeology travels, follow and connect with him on Facebook, Twitter or Google+.

Melissa Benigan of Break out of Bushwick almost made her daughter throw up when they visited Les Egouts. You’ll have to read her post to find out more about this . . . unique Paris museum.

Mary Jo Manzares of Traveling with MJ had this to say: Do the Math: Decide which museums and attractions you want to visit. Add up those admission fees, along with the benefit of not having to wait in line (for tickets or admission), and see if you can save money with a Paris Museum Pass.

Kate Voyage of 30Traveler has some great tips for people in search of vegan restaurants in Paris.

Caroline Leal of Passport and a Toothbrush had this to share:

• If you want to see more of the ‘real’ Paris, explore some of the ethnic arrondissements. Place du Château Rouge, a 10-minute walk east of Montmartre, has a great African community. Sunday is definitely the busiest day with its street market.
• There is a great program called “Meeting the Parisians at Work: where one can shadow Parisians at their workplace. Crafts range from baking to chocolate making, even an umbrella restorer! Definitely a unique experience not to miss.
• Lastly, LEARN FRENCH! To know some French is essential to a more positive experience in Paris.

Audrey Bergner of That Backpacker highly recommends you have some crêpes avec Nutella. They’re pretty cheap at about 2euro, and you can find creperies all over the place. [My personal favorite is a crepe with banana, Nutella, and almonds. To die for!]

Fashionista Jennifer Dombrowski of JDomb’s Travels recommends attending the free weekly fashion show at 3 PM (15h00) on Fridays on the 7th floor of the main Haussmann store in the Salon Opéra. It is presented by a team of 6 professional models who show off the latest trends by the most famous designers and couturier collections. This 30-minute presentation requires reservations and includes a commentary done in English. Make the reservation by email : welcome@galerieslafayette.com.

Address: 40 Blvd. Haussmann, 9th arrondissement
Metro: Chaussée d’Antin, Opéra, or Trinité
RER: Auber (Line A) or Haussmann St-Lazare (Line E)

Sarah Vied of Uncaged Traveler is a fellow fan of Montmarte and suggests the following:

• The view from The Sacré-Cœur Basilica is worth the walk up Montmartre. Paris is relatively flat, so it affords a nice view of the city. There are also a lot of local artists that sell their paintings in a square on Montmartre that’s well worth checking out.
• Definitely weigh your museum options if you don’t have the time or money to do everything. For example, if you’re more interested in Impressionism, go to d’Orsay rather than the Louvre.
• Consider a visit to Ladurée, inventors of the double-decker macaron. They have macarons in just about every flavor, and they’re all heavenly. (14 rue de Castiglione)

Alison Cornford-Matheson of Cheese Web had this useful tip: For a great free view of the city, which includes both Montmartre AND the Eiffel Tower, head to the top of the Pompidou Museum. You can ride up the crazy exterior escalators without paying any admission, and if you’d like to splurge, you can buy a drink or a full meal at the rooftop restaurant. The terrace is lovely in the summertime and you can watch the glamorous Parisians eating tiny salads.

Andi Fisher of Misadventures with Andi suggests you don’t try to do everything, as you will end up frustrated. Visit farmer’s markets to pick up picnic items, visit fancy restaurants for lunch, they are cheaper (and picnic for dinner). She blogs regularly about France and Paris, so you might find other useful tidbits on her site.

Camille Poiré of Camille in Wonderlands is a Parisian and shared these tidbits:

• Walk along the Canal Saint-Martin and stop for a drink and live music at the Point Éphémère art cafe.
• In summer, bring a picnic and catch a free film on the lawns of the Parc de La Villette at the open air film festival of the same name. Great setting, a good selection of movies every night and you can rent deckchairs and blankets for a small price, or bring your own!
• For a more pleasant shopping experience, head to Bercy Village with its choice of boutiques, cafes and restaurants housed in quaint village “huts.” You can combine it with a visit of the surrounding gardens, a stroll down the Simone de Beauvoir footbridge (named after the feminist philosopher) and a visit of the National Library on the other side of the river, a film at the Cinémathèque française, or even a sports event or gig at the Palais Omnisports Paris-Bercy, the biggest indoors sport and music venue.
• A really lovely park off the beaten path is the Arènes de Lutèce, built around Roman ruins in the Quartier Latin. 5. In June, the Solidays music festival against AIDS is a chance to see your favourite international bands for an affordable price while doing a good deed.

Patti Schulz Maghamfar of One Road at a Time, who we met while in Paris, heartily recommends doing the Fat Tire Bike Tour. It’s a 4-hour tour with informative guides and a lot of fun, even in the freezing cold.

Marlys Alfiler-Schuermann of Easy Hiker, who we also met while in Paris (and who fixed us a tremendously delicious dinner) has a fantastic site filled with all sorts of fascinating urban walks. I wish I had known about her site before my 1st visit to the City of Light.

Reena Ganga of Wanderplex wants to spare you from standing in long lines: Paris is notorious for super long lines outside popular attractions and art exhibitions. If you don’t want to spend your whole vacation waiting around, make sure you book advance tickets to these sites. You can pre-purchase tickets to the Louvre, Musée d’Orsay, and the Eiffel Tower, among other places.

Building on Reena’s advice, Vera Badertscher of A Traveler’s Library wants you to know it is even easier if you get your tickets at one of the smaller museums. “I learned to my dismay that our rental apartment was only 2 blocks from the Delacroix house, and I could have bought my Louvre and d’Orsay tickets there!”

What would you add, or what would you like to know, about what to do in Paris? Please share your tips or questions in the comment section.