Iceland is known as the Land of Fire and Ice, and it’s definitely an appropriate nickname. Its lack of trees, among other things, created unique challenges for its early settlers for not only heating their homes but also with food preparation and preservation.

Without wood or coal to use for fuel, the early inhabits took advantage of the geothermal pools and rivers to prepare their food. We sampled some of their popular brown bread that is still cooked in this manner, and it was quite good.

Angelica is a plant that grows wild in Iceland. Many people consider it to be like a weed. It was a big part of the diet for awhile before it became like currency. It is now making a resurgence and reappearing in some Iceland foods.

We sampled angelica tea as well as had it toasted with some garlic and other ingredients. It had a nice, almost nutty flavor with a subtle hint of licorice. It is a bit “twiggy,” though.

The Tin Can Factory typically serves a traditional lamb soup, but the night we went we enjoyed a seafood soup along with fresh rolls and a cold bottle of Icelandic beer.

One of the really fun parts, besides the good food, was making Icelandic pancakes which are very similar to crepes. Jam is applied to one half of the pancake with whipped cream on the other before it is folded together to eat. Tigger got to try her hand at cooking them and had a lot of fun.

Before we left, we were also treated to a taste of the infamous fermented shark known as hákarl. It is an old Viking food. This particular shark does not have kidneys, so its ammonia and urea is absorbed by the flesh. Because of this, you cannot eat the shark without special preparation.

It is first left to drain for three months to get rid of all the toxic stuff. Once that is completed, it is basically stored and allowed to ferment for a few more months as a means of preserving it.

It is such a strong flavor that most Icelanders don’t eat it. However, it’s kind of a badge of honor thing to sample it when you visit the country. I can honestly say it’s the foulest-tasting thing I have ever put in my mouth.

What’s worse is that the flavor does not leave your palate for hours, so you’re treated to reminders of the taste for a long time. I tried eating various foods and having different drinks to rid my mouth of the residual and was unsuccessful until I sucked on a spoonful of peanut butter.

While Iceland’s cuisine may not be considered impressive overall, they do get an A+ for their most popular street food—hotdogs. These are actually made from lamb and are quite tasty. I am not usually fond of hotdogs, but we ended up getting them at least 3 different times during our 2-week stay.

You will find these booths spread out throughout the city; however, we have been told multiple times that the oldest location, which is across the street from the Harpa is the best. If you get a dog with everything on it, your meal will have ketchup, remoulade, and fried and fresh onions.

They’re absolutely delicious. They’re also popular because they’re pretty darn cheap, something that can’t be said for most of the food found in Iceland. A hotdog costs about $2.80 USD.

We also visited the Sea Baron restaurant (Saegreifinn) which offers sample sizes of minke whale meat for less than $3 USD. I definitely can recommend it. My daughter, who is extremely finicky, liked it so much she wanted to order a minke steak.

They also have a lobster soup which is supposed to be quite excellent, and they have many other great seafood options.

We considered going to SushiSamba which offers an “Icelandic feast,” a multicourse meal with samples of Iceland foods like smoked puffin, arctic char, reindeer, and so on. In the end, we just couldn’t justify spending over $50 USD per person. There are other restaurants offering some of these delicacies at less expensive prices, so if they’re on your list make sure to check out different places.

Another food I definitely fell in love with was Skyr. It’s classified as a soft cheese but is very similar in texture to Greek yogurt. It is absolutely delicious and has a wonderful texture. I get excited every time I find it outside Iceland.

Have you tried traditional Iceland foods? What was your favorite? Are they any you simply would not try?

Equipment

While current cell phones often have tremendous photo quality, if you want even better images, then you’ll want to get a standalone camera.

I think it’s fair to say most professional photographers prefer the control a DSLR camera provides; however, mirrorless cameras are also becoming more popular. They add the versatility you want without the bulk and weight. There are pros and cons of each type of camera, and really it comes down to personal preference and what exactly you want from your camera.

If you can bring a tripod along, then you’ll definitely want to, especially if you’ll be in Iceland during the northern lights season. Trying to capture images of the aurora without a tripod is an exercise in futility. However, a tripod is handy for daytime shots as well.

Make sure to bring a wide-angle lens with you for those amazing landscape shots.

If you’re traveling to Iceland during the cooler seasons, make sure to bring a large Ziploc bag or something similar (more on that later).

Photography Tips for Beginners

If you’re somewhat new to digital photography, or if you just want to up your game, Iceland is the perfect place to really stretch your wings.

In addition to learning some of the tricks of the trade, you might want to consider doing a workshop that combines travel with photography education. Something like a photo tour would not only give you an amazing tour of parts of Iceland but provide you invaluable time with a professional photographer to help you really hone your skills.

It’s also helpful to learn some of the basic terminology and functions of your camera before you go.

• Aperture. This controls how much light enters the lens and strikes the sensor. It functions much like the pupil in your eye. A wider aperture setting lets in more light. When looking at photos, you may notice a reference to an F stop or see something like f/22. The potentially confusing part of this is that the smaller the F stop, the wider the aperture. So f/2.8 is going to be wider (more light) than f/16.
• Depth of field. Have you seen a photo where an object in the image is crisp while other parts of the image are more blurry (see flower example above)? This is decreased depth of field and the effect depends on the aperture setting. A wider aperture will provide this effect while a more narrow aperture will keep the whole scene in focus.
• Macro. This type of photography is probably easiest explained as an extreme close-up. For instance when you’re capturing an image of an insect or dew on moss. Most cameras have a macro setting (look for a flower icon), but you can also get special macro lens which will really increase your ability to get nice, crisp images. I would say this isn’t that common of a technique in Iceland.
• Shutter speed. This basically refers to how long the sensor will be exposed to light (how fast or slow the shutter closes after pressing the button). In low-light conditions, you will need a longer exposure time. If you want to freeze action, you want a much shorter exposure. This speed is usually indicated by fractions of a minute (i.e., 1/16th), although nighttime exposure can be much longer than a minute.
• Noise. You may hear a photographer refer to an image as having noise. This is when you have variations in light and dark on an image. It often looks like small white speckles on a dark photo (see the photo above). While it can be used artistically, generally you’ll want the least amount of noise as possible on your low-light images. You can accomplish this in different ways. Generally, though, you want to decrease your ISO and/or use a faster shutter speed.
• Rule of Thirds. This helps you get a better composition in your photo. Some cameras have a digital grid you can trigger when you’re composing your image. Basically, you visualize a 3 x 3 grid on your monitor/viewfinder. The main subject should end up where the lines intersect.

Waterfalls

When capturing images of moving water, you generally want a slower shutter speed. This is best done with a tripod so you don’t risk hand movement during your exposure. This gives the water a smooth, fluid appearance.

However, there are times when you want to “freeze” the water while in motion. To do that you’ll need good lighting and a faster shutter speed.

Northern Lights Photography Tips

This could really be a post all by itself. There are a lot of factors involved, so I’ll refer you to this very good tutorial for specifics. If you plan on going out and photographing the aurora and you decide to do it as part of a tour, I would not recommend the boat tour. Even with smooth waters, there is just too much motion to capture a really good image, and you may have to jostle around to even find space to set up your tripod.

If this on your bucket list, the best time to try to see the lights in Iceland is between September and mid April. We were there in late January/early February and saw them a few times.

Lighting

You may have heard of the golden and blue hour. The golden hour is when light appears softer and more golden (warmer) and occurs about an hour after sunrise and an hour before sunset. This also gives you longer shadows which can help an image appear more dramatic.

The blue hour is right before sunrise and right after sunset and mostly refers to the color of the sky.

The trick with photography in Iceland is that during the summer the sun doesn’t completely set until very early in the morning and is rising again shortly thereafter. Conversely, in winter the sun may not begin to make an appearance until around 11 AM and will go down a few hours later. So timing things can be a bit of a challenge, especially during winter.

Colors

You’ll get more contrast of colors in the late spring and summer when there is less snow on the ground, but winter shouldn’t be counted out. Colorful buildings and the rugged features of basalt columns and black sand beaches can provide some gorgeous views, too.

Winter Tips

Okay, this is where the Ziploc bag comes into play. Going from cold air into a warm car or building can cause condensation to form on your camera, lens, and the sensor. To avoid this, transfer your gear into a Ziploc bag while you’re still outside. Leave it inside the bag when you move indoors so that condensation doesn’t form on or in the camera.

Cold and batteries are not friends. It’s a good idea to keep an extra battery inside your jacket or pocket where it can stay warmer as batteries tend to lose their juice faster in the cold.

You may also want to invest in a pair of convertible gloves. These are gloves that have a hood that slides over the fingers so that they provide the warmth of a mitten but also allow you to free up your fingertips without having to remove your gloves.

Getting Creative

One of the joys of digital photography is that you can experiment with different angles, settings, and so on without it costing you a small fortune in film and prints. So make sure you look at your subject from different angles both horizontally and vertically. Sometimes even moving just a foot more in one direction can give a completely different appearance.

Fill the Frame

While sometimes you want to incorporate a subject’s surroundings or background, often buildings, monuments, etc., look better when they “fill the frame.” This means that when you’re looking through your viewfinder or at your camera’s monitor, you essentially want the subject to fill that space as much possible.

What other questions do you have that might be good photography tips?

I’ve prepared some tips to help you prepare beforehand and while you’re there.

Preparing for Driving in Iceland

Before you set out on your awesome road trip, you’ll want to familiarize yourself with the rules of the road in Iceland.

• In Iceland, ones drives on the right side of the road. If you’ve ever had the fun of having to drive on the left side when you aren’t accustomed to it, you’ll probably breathe a sigh of relief right now.
• The driver and all passengers must wear seat belts. Younger children and infants will have to be in safety seats.
• Headlights must be on whenever the car is in motion, day or night.
• It is illegal to use a mobile phone when driving in Iceland.
• As with many countries, driving while “under the influence” or while intoxicated is strictly prohibited.
• Speed limits vary depending on the terrain and the level of population. For populated areas, it’s generally 30-50 km/h. On gravel roads, usually the limit is 80 km/h with the limit increasing to 90 km/h on paved roads in rural areas. If you’re from the US and aren’t familiar with the metric system, don’t worry about it. Your car’s speed indicator will be marked in km/h.

Tips for Driving in Iceland

• Smaller bridges are often single lane, so you’ll want to pay extra attention for oncoming traffic as you approach. When stopping, making sure to leave adequate space for the other car to exit the bridge.
• Make sure to slow down when the pavement surface changes, such as from asphalt (tarmac) to gravel. If you aren’t familiar with driving on gravel, it would be a good idea to go slower than the speed limit as you adjust.
• The weather in Iceland can be rather mercurial. You can experience four seasons in the same day. Before heading out, especially if the weather appears rather dubious at the time, make sure to check the road conditions. Naturally, this is more of a concern in the winter when a gentle breeze and sunshine can quickly turn into gale-force winds and blizzard conditions.
• Driving in the highlands can be more hazardous, so remember to take things slowly there.
• Download the safety app to your phone before you head out. This can help emergency services find you in case you need help.
• Even though you may have a 4×4 vehicle, note that off-road driving is illegal in Iceland. You can cause considerable ecological damage by not observing this law, as well as endanger yourself.
• Be careful to not get distracted by the scenery. If you spot something interesting, make sure to pull over somewhere safe so you aren’t obstructing traffic as you gaze at the latest wonder you’ve spotted.
• Because of the above, as well as due to possible weather changes, you’ll want to add extra time to any travel estimate. Trust me on this.

Parking in Reykjavik

Parking in the city can be very tricky to find and can be expensive. It is cheaper as you get farther away from downtown.

In the city, P1 is the red zone and is the most expensive. If you have a P1 parking meter ticket, you can park in any of the four zones. A ticket valid for the P2 zone is also valid in zones 3 and 4. You get the idea.

It’s a relatively small city, so if you wish to park in the cheapest zone available, you really won’t have to endure too much of a walk.

Is an Iceland road trip in your plans?

Unique Museums

Iceland has a nice representation of museums, and some of them are definitely more. . . unique. Let’s begin with Strandagaldur, the Museum of Icelandic Sorcery and Witchcraft. Located in the northern part of the island, this museum houses various items related to the practice of magic in Iceland’s early history.

One of their more peculiar items on display are the necropants, which are a pair of pants made from human skin. They guaranteed the wearer an endless supply of money.

The Icelandic Phallological Museum in Reykjavik boasts the world’s largest collection of penises and penile parts. They also claim to have troll and elf penises, but as those creatures are invisible you can’t actually see them.

There’s even a documentary about the museum.

Waterfalls

Iceland has some very popular waterfalls which are usually seen as part of an organized tour or road trip. However, there are a couple that are particularly impressive but most people don’t know about them.

Svartifoss is a very unique waterfall located in Vatnajökull National Park. One of things that sets this waterfall apart is that it flows over basalt columns. When you see amazing, mythical-appearing landscapes such as this it’s easy to see why many modern Icelanders believe in trolls and elves.

Another waterfall to make sure you visit, which is off the infamous Ring Road, is Gljúfrafoss. This waterfall is hidden in a cave located behind a cliff. There is a trail for hikers to be able to see it up close. Visitors will also find a staircase so they can get a different view of the impressive falls.

Interesting Natural Formations

In northwest Iceland, you can observe Hvítserkur. This huge basalt sea stack looks like a monster rising up from the ocean. Some see a dragon dipping its head into the waters for a drink. Local legend says it was a troll that wanted to destroy a nearby convent’s bells, but it was hit by sunlight which, of course, petrified it.

The area is also home to a large population of sea lions, probably the largest gathering in Iceland. There are also a lot of birds. In fact, the formation’s white appearance is from their guano.

Near the small coastal town of Vík, located in Iceland’s south coast, you’ll find one of my most favorite places—Reynisdrangar. Here you’ll find a gorgeous black beach with a basalt column formation to one side and very cool sea stacks to the other. The basalt cliff forms a small cave that looks like the entrance to another dimension.

The formations in the ocean are, of course, pesky trolls who turned to stone while trying to drag a ship back to shore.

The whole scene is just so other-worldly it shouldn’t be missed. South coast tours usually include this location as a stop, but it’s also not a far drive from the capital.

Quirky Activities

If you have an affinity for elves and their kind, then you should consider going to Hafnarfjörður where you can take a tour of their hidden world. You could also take a more in-depth course about them through The Elfschool.

Geothermal pools are not unusual at all in Iceland; however, between May 15 and August 1, you can visit the golden sand geothermal beach at Nauthólsvík. You can bathe in the waters in the lagoon, but there is also a sauna and two pools, one of which is designed for small children. Conveniently, there are also changing rooms, towel and swimsuit rentals as well as food vendors. Use of the facilities, including the pools, is free during the summer.

Unusual Food

As one might imagine, agriculture wasn’t a booming industry in Iceland’s early history. This has resulted in some unique cuisine.

One of the country’s most popular foods is the hot dog. The Icelandic version is made from lamb. These are traditionally served with raw and fried onions, ketchup, a slightly sweet brown mustard and remoulade. They are absolutely delicious and surprisingly inexpensive. We still crave them from time to time.

One of the more famous infamous foods in this country is hákarl. This is essentially fermented shark. This particular sea creature lacks kidneys, so the fish is left for months to drain the urea from its body before being cured. Some might argue the smell is worse than the flavor, but I think it’s really a draw.

If you decide to partake, plan on having a big spoon of peanut butter at the ready. You’ll want to slowly suck on the peanut butter to partially rid yourself of the aftertaste. It’s a gift that keeps on giving for hours.

Minke whale is another popular seafood dish, and it’s quite delicious. The flesh is dark red and has a similar consistency to beef. You can find it in many restaurants, but it’s also available in grocery stores and at the flea market in downtown Reykjavik.

One food item I didn’t get to try while there was puffin. This tends to be a seasonal item, but there are some restaurants that serve it year round. It is usually smoked but is sometimes served broiled. Some people have described the flavor as being reminiscent of pastrami.

Not quite as unusual but still particular to modern-day Iceland is Skyr. It is very similar to Greek yogurt in its consistency but is technically a soft cheese. It is high in protein, very low in fat, and high in calcium. I always look for it in markets elsewhere. It’s a great gustatory reminder of this wonderful country.

Which unique things to do in Iceland will make it onto your list? Will you brave sampling hákarl?

One of the things that really attracted me to this particular cooking class was that they focus on using local ingredients. The owner and instructor for Icelandic food (they also teach other cuisines) Auður even goes so far as to drive for hours during the summer to pick blueberries herself rather than just buy them in the supermarket.

Once I arrived and saw the layout of her kitchen and the amazing view, I knew I was in for a real treat.

The menu we would be preparing included a salad, main dish, and a dessert. We were given a lovely folder containing the recipes so we could re-create the dishes at home, and the folder contained some handy conversion charts for those not familiar with metrics. This came in quite handy when I went to re-create one of these dishes while in Mexico.

Auður walked us through each process and made sure we learned how to improve our chopping and other cooking techniques. As we prepared the food, she talked to us about the various ingredients, how they’re made or used, and what we could use to substitute for Icelandic foods we might not be able to find outside the country, like Skyr.

The class takes a few hours, and she serves some wonderful wine with the meal. It’s a great time to not only eat the delicious food you’ve prepared but to get to know her and your fellow classmates more.

Check out this amazing food!

Tip: Don’t trust Google Maps to find the class by the business name. For some reason they keep trying to lead people to the former location. Instead, search for the address of Þórunnartún 2 and that will bring you right to her doorstep. The school is located in a large building, but there is good signage to let you know where to go.

Like with most cooking classes, don’t eat much for breakfast beforehand. You’ll want to make sure you have plenty of room for the amazing dishes you’ll be preparing.

As mentioned above, they offer classes in other cuisines as well. These are taught by local top chefs, so they’re worth checking out if you’ll be in the city long enough to partake.

I definitely would recommend this class to learn how to cook Icelandic food. And you won’t even have to eat any fermented shark.

Iceland is an absolutely gorgeous country, and because of its smaller size you can really see a lot of the Land of Fire and Ice, even if you don’t have a lot of time.

Things to consider for your Iceland road trip

• While it’s pretty hard to get lost on Iceland’s famous Ring Road, a GPS will help you figure out stops you may want to make, will give you some extra confidence, and help you plan a bit better. There can be some hidden treasures on side and back roads which could be more difficult without ones of these devices.
• If you plan on going off road at all, or will be driving in winter, make sure to heed warnings about the need for an all-wheel or four-wheel drive. The signs aren’t a result of being overcautious.
• Visiting Iceland while using a camper can really add to your adventure. Cozy Campers has excellent reviews so would be worth checking out.
• Be respectful of the local ecology. Iceland is a hearty land, but some of its flora can actually be a bit delicate in certain conditions.
• Make sure to bring along plenty of extra water, warm clothing (dressing in layers is best), extra food, and some blankets and/or sleeping bags just in case you experience an emergency, breakdown, etc.
• Iceland weather is mercurial. You can experience all four seasons in one day. During our stay, we walked out into a sunny, cloudless day where we only needed a hoodie, and before we had gone half a mile it was snowing, windy, and freezing. Be prepared for anything because you just may get it.
• Keep an eye out for elf houses during your trip.
• Pack swimwear and towels so you can enjoy the natural geothermal pools you find along the way.
• Even though cell phone cameras can capture good-quality images, I’d suggest bringing along a camera that gives you more control, has better sensors, etc. And don’t forget extra batteries. Your camera is going to get a lot of use!
• Some people recommend starting your journey in a counter clockwise direction.
• When planning your itinerary, make sure you allow yourself more time than you need. Almost every person I have spoken to who has done this road trip has mentioned they ended up making a lot more stops than they planned because of amazing views.
• According to some sources, the trip can be done in 17 hours, but it would be best to plan at least a few days. From my research, it seems that the most common recommendation is to stretch it out over 5-7 days minimum.
• During your drive, remember that typically at restaurants if you order soup & bread you get free refills. This can really help stretch your budget further.

Some locations to consider visiting

Vík

This town on Iceland’s south coast has a beautiful black beach. However, one of my favorite attractions in the world is located nearby—Reynisdrangar. This black pebble beach has a very cool cave with basalt columns. Out in the water are a few stone pillars that legend has are trolls who were turned to stone when the sun came out while they were trying to drag a ship in from the sea.

It’s really an incredible sight and is one of my favorite memories from our time in the island nation.

Ice Caves

On the way to Hofn, you can find some ice caves to explore. This is on my Iceland wish list for a return visit.

Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon

Depending on when you visit, you may be able to do some boating while you’re there. It would definitely be worth it!

Dettifoss

“Foss” is the Icelandic word for waterfall. This particular waterfall is pretty amazing and is considered to be the most powerful waterfall in Europe. It’s a pretty spectacular sight.

The Garðar BA 64 shipwreck

There’s just something fascinating about seeing a big ship resting abandoned on dry land.

Thingvellir National Park

This is the site of the first parliament. The first gathering occurred around 930, and the site continued to be used until 1798. The park is considered a national shrine and is also a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Aside from the interesting history, visitors can also see where the North American and Eurasian continental plates separate.

Have you considered doing an Iceland road trip? What sights do you want to see the most?

I would love to go back some time between late spring and early fall so that I could see the landscape when it’s more green, has more flowers, and when activities like hiking and camping might be more realistic comfortable.

Here are some of the places and activities I’d love to experience.

Ice Caves

There are some incredible ice caves, like the blue ice cave, that I would love to explore. Caves found at locations like Vatnajökull and Skaftafell just look so amazing that I want to experience them in person.

Many of the caves are best seen during fall and winter, but some can be visited year round.

Waterfalls

We did see some of these during our last visit, but I imagine they’re even more impressive during the warmer months when the rivers are more swollen.  There are actually a lot of waterfalls in Iceland, so they aren’t too difficult to visit.

In particular, I’d love to see Skógafoss again. It was beautiful in winter, but when the surrounding hills are green and more water is flowing, it has to be an incredible sight.

Þingvellir

This UNESCO site is where the first parliament was held, and it’s also one of the only two places on earth where the effects of two major plates drifting apart can be observed. The continental plates of North America and Europe meet here.

This was another place we visited in winter, but I would love to see it without all the snow and ice.

Plate Diving

Speaking of drifting plates, in Silfra one can dive or snorkel between the plates! It’s one of the few times I would consider cold water diving (water temperatures are between 2-4C year round). It would be worth it, though, to get to dive between the continental plates.

If I had a scuba bucket list, Silfra would be on it.

Puffins

I love these birds, and Iceland is one of the places where you can view them easily. As far as cuteness goes, I’d have to say they’re right up there with penguins. But less noisy and stinky.

Ring Road

There are at least a few popular road trip routes in Iceland. Probably the longest is known as The Ring Road. This route encircles the entire island and covers over 800 miles.

During our tour of the south coast, I was amazed at the massive, raw beauty of this island nation. It would be so cool to have the time, opportunity, and hopefully good-enough weather, to drive this route. The road passes by glaciers, meadows, national parks, volcanoes, etc.

I’ve read some articles from people who spread the journey out over several days, and I think that’s how I’d want to do it. With the incredible views, I can’t imagine not pulling over frequently to take it all in. It could conceivably be done in one day, but some things you just don’t rush.

This is one of them.

Natural Thermal Pools

We went in search of one of these the last time we were visiting Iceland; however, it was tough to get to with all the snow on the ground. Instead, we opted to visit one of the wonderful thermal spas in Reykjavík.

There are a couple of natural pools one sees rather than experiences, like Víti, which is a volcanic hot spring. Not only does it look interesting in photos, but the name literally translates to Hell. How can you skip a place with that name?

There’s just something that seems so incredible about sitting in a natural thermal pool in the outdoors.

Museums

There are two museums in particular that have drawn my interest. The first is the open-air museum Árbæjarsafn. It gives you a glimpse of what life was like for the early inhabitants of Iceland. After hearing some of the stories during our culture class, I would really like to delve deeper into their history and life.

The other is the Iceland Phallogical Museum. When you run across a penis museum, you just have to visit! I tried to convince Tigger to go with me when we were in Reykjavík but I was unsuccessful. I realize now that I should’ve just said, “Hey, let’s go check this place out” when we walked past it. Hindsight is 20/20 and all that.

I guess next time I’ll just go alone.

What’s on your dream list for visiting Iceland?

Icelandair not only offers very decent fares but a cool stopover program. With this program, you can plan a route with a layover in Iceland lasting up to 7 days at no extra charge. When we were planning our return to Europe from the US, going through Iceland was the cheapest route. We flew with Icelandair and were pretty pleased.

Transferring to/from the airport

If you don’t plan on renting a car and want to save some money on airport transfer, check into using FlyBus. The bus ride from the airport to the bus terminal is about 45 minutes depending on traffic. If you’ll be using this bus to return at the end of your trip, make sure to buy a roundtrip ticket. You’ll save some money this way, and the return ticket is an open ticket so you aren’t bound by a specific date or time.

The bus terminal is within walking distance of downtown Reykjavik. If you don’t mind a short walk, then stick with the basic ticket (about $26 USD roundtrip). Otherwise, for an extra fee you can get a shuttle from the bus station to your hotel.

The buses are very comfortable and offer free WiFi. You won’t have to wait long for a bus from the airport either.

You can buy tickets online or at the airport near the exit where the buses are waiting.

Getting around Reykjavik

The capital city is not that big and is quite walkable. There is a public bus system, but we never used it. If you decide to download their app, just be aware that at least the Android version is in Icelandic. Not very helpful if you don’t speak the language. However, their online planner is pretty useful and is in English.

Taxis are fairly pricey. We paid about $10 USD for a 1.8-km (just over 1 mile) ride. Why did we take a taxi for such a short distance? Read this before you judge.

Accommodations

Iceland is not a cheap country, and lodging definitely can definitely be a challenge if you’re trying to keep expenses down. Airbnb has a lot of pretty good choices, and I would encourage you to go this route as it means you’ll have a kitchen to use to prepare meals, and this will save you a lot of money. More on that below.

Another option if you’re a bit more adventurous is Couchsurfing. We often do this when traveling, and we’ve made some great friends and have had some wonderful experiences through it. This also gives you a deeper look into life as a local, which is something I always enjoy.

Money

Almost every business accepts credit/debit cards. Unlike many places in Europe, the US non-chip cards work quite well. We never had an issue. Even the hotdog stand accepts cards.

Getting Around Iceland

While there are reasonably priced intercity buses, you might want to do ridesharing. This is quite popular in Iceland and is pretty safe. It can save you a lot of money as well as give you time to spend with a local.

Safety

Few places in the world are as safe as Iceland. Crime, especially the violent kind, is very low in the country. There is perhaps 1 murder a year, and it took about 50 years for Iceland’s police to actually have to kill a suspect; something that the whole nation grieved about together. The Icelandic people and their approach to life and society are definitely very special.

Food

Eating out is much more expensive than buying groceries. A couple of exceptions are the infamous Icelandic street food of hotdogs made from lamb. They are pretty darn good and cost under $3. We visited the hotdog place multiple times because we enjoyed them so much.

I’ve also been told that the Noodle Station is a good option for a filling, cheap meal, although we didn’t eat there.

One handy trick to know is that when you order soup and bread in restaurants, you’re entitled to refills. We did that during our tour of the south coast, and it really helps reduce your costs.

Iceland’s tap water is really quite good and clean, so save yourself some more money by bringing along a reusable water bottle.

As I mentioned above, groceries are going to be much cheaper than eating out. For buying groceries, the cheapest store is Bónus (look for the pig logo). Krónan has similar prices and offers a broader selection, and its stores are less crowded. We liked Krónan better.

Both stores have a nice selection of prepared meals you can take back home and reheat. One of these meals is probably about one third or less the cost of a typical restaurant meal.

One food to definitely give a try while in Iceland is minke whale. These whales are not threatened or endangered so no worries there. Minke meat is quite tasty. We went to the a small restaurant by the harbor called the Sea Baron as they had a sampler size for less than $3. Tigger liked it so much he wanted the minke steak. It’s definitely worth a try and is much better than some of Iceland’s other unusual offerings.

Also check out the flea market which has some really great deals on food, including what would be some more exotic meats (such as horse) to most of us. If you want to save money on Icelandic souvenirs, this is a great place for that, too. It is open on weekends.

Visiting Iceland in Winter

The idea of visiting a country so close to the Arctic Circle may have you second guessing a trip, but surprisingly Iceland is actually not that cold. I have found Bucharest and even Denver to be much colder. We met up with a friend visiting from New York City who confirmed Iceland was warmer. So it isn’t as bad as you might imagine.

You will want winter shoes, and dressing in layers is key. Iceland can have some serious winds, so having a layer that is more wind resistant will be very helpful.

Iceland’s weather is hilariously mercurial. In one day we seriously went from being in sunshine and being warm enough with just a hoodie to dealing with a big dump of snow in a matter of minutes. They aren’t kidding when they say if you don’t like the weather, just wait about 5 minutes.

Visiting in winter gives you four big benefits: airfares are lower, the northern lights are more active, accommodation and tour prices are lower, and the tourist crowds are much smaller.

The downsides are snow and ice to deal with and about 4-6 hours of daylight. Then again, it’s nice to be able to not miss a single sunrise without having to get up before 10 AM.

Make sure to visit one of the many swimming pools in town. These are heated geothermally, and you’ll find pools with different temperatures. Some of them have great slides and structures for the kids to enjoy. These offer cheap admission and free lockers. These are a big part of the Icelandic culture, so it’s a great local activity to participate in, and nothing beats sitting in 40C water after a day in winter spent exploring.

What other things would you like to know, or what tip do you have to offer that I didn’t include?

One of the reasons I was interested in their tours is that they keep group sizes to much smaller numbers. Being part of a whole coach tour bus just doesn’t appeal to me.

Because of Iceland’s very short amount of daylight during winter, we left and returned in the dark. Another reason I was quite content to let someone else do the driving. Aside from that, though, our guide/driver had a huge amount of information about local folklore and events.

It was very interesting to see with your own eyes just how much Iceland has grown, the physical part of it, since the days when it was settled. It’s a strong reminder that the country’s foundations are still quite very active. Iceland’s landmass grows about 1-2 cm a year.

I also enjoyed hearing tidbits of history such as how trails between regions were measured by how many pairs of shoes would be necessary to complete the journey. As shoes were handmade from skins and other natural items, people needed this information for their trek.

The Icelandic language can be fairly entertaining for a native English speaker. You have to use your tongue in new ways. I’m pretty sure I had the tongue version of a Charley horse while trying to pronounce Sólheimajökull, the name of the glacier we visited.

You have to appreciate the twinkle in a local’s eye while they watch your face contort as you try to say some of the Icelandic words and names.

The two falls we stopped at were beautiful, and the glacier was interesting to see as well. It has retreated quite a bit over time, and it’s fascinating to see the boulder-strewn valley and lake that have been left in its wake.

During our stop for lunch, we learned another valuable tip: In restaurants, when you order a bowl of soup you get free refills of the soup and bread. Given how expensive restaurant meals can be, that’s pretty useful information, and I availed myself of that opportunity.

While the glaciers, waterfalls, and stories were all enjoyable, there was one place in particular I wanted to see, and that was the basalt columns on the black sand beach near Vik. When we arrived, I couldn’t help but utter a loud “Oh wow!”

The cliff face looked like something straight out of mythology. You almost expect to hear a troll’s rumbling snore coming from within the mountain. It’s one of the coolest natural wonders I’ve ever seen. And the beach’s graduating sand layers (from black rocks to small granules as you approach the sea’s edge) just add to the sense of awe.

Tigger is even less of an organized tour fan than me, so when he informed me that he enjoyed the tour and found it interesting, I can’t imagine a more solid recommendation than that.

Make sure to visit our Facebook page for more photos from our time in Iceland.

Do you like organized tours? Have you done one that was exceptional?

Luckily, a company with a rather novel idea, Tinggly, contacted me and offered us a voucher so that we could try them out. They have a unique gift-giving setup where people can purchase a voucher as a gift for someone, and the recipient can pick an experience from all over the world (experiences and memories over “stuff”!). Well, they just happened to have a northern lights tour in Iceland, so guess what we signed up for!

I think the majority of people taking these tours go by bus, but there are some tours that head out into the harbor outside the nation’s capital, Reykjavik. As you can imagine, there are pros and cons with the different ways to witness this amazing celestial spectacle.

Boat tours

There are definitely some advantages to these tours. For starters, you can relax inside the ship while the boat makes a short trip away from the city lights of the capital. It only takes about 20-30 minutes for them to arrive. As winter is the best time to see the lights, you’ll appreciate being able to remain indoors until the guide makes the announcement that the aurora has appeared.

The company we used provided warm overalls to wear over your clothing to help you stay warm outside on the observation decks.

Sometimes the lights dance in the sky for a while and other times they are like brief pulses of light. You just never know how long they’ll remain, but the guides are good at being able to notice a slight change in the sky so that you have ample time to head outdoors to witness them.

Pros

• Shorter trip which means you get back to your lodging earlier.
• More comfortable than a bus with plenty of room to stretch out.
• Indoor bathrooms.
• Space for napping if you’re traveling with children or suffering from jet lag.
• Warmer clothing provided.

This is what happens on a boat with long exposures.

Cons

• Poor choice for photography. We were in very calm seas, but the boat rocks enough that the longer exposure required to adequately capture the lights also means a ton of motion artifacts. Even with a tripod, your shots will be suboptimal.
• Can be a bit more crowded as the space is more limited on decks that outdoors on land. If you want to take photos, this is even more of a headache as you have to jockey for space, and the lights don’t always cooperate by showing up in the same spot.
• Motion sickness for people who are more sensitive.
• If you’re traveling alone and happen to nod off, no one is going to make sure you’re awakened to see the lights.

Bus tours

There are a ton of companies offering these tours. They usually include pick up and return from/to where you’re staying. The buses usually go out of town for about 45 minutes to an hour to find a good spot to wait. Usually companies provide some hot beverages and light refreshments.

Pros

• Much better for photography—Your tripod won’t be bobbing up and down.
• Trip is probably less likely to be cancelled as they are not as dependent on good weather. For example, if there are high winds but clear skies, the buses will go out while the boats may not (or you may wish they hadn’t).
• Smaller group sizes.
• Tour guide is more likely to make sure you don’t miss the lights if they make an appearance.

Cons

• Longer trip, later return.
• Probably colder.
• Not as comfortable.
• Outdoor toilets.
• Sometimes more expensive.

Outside our bedroom. I didn’t have time to adjust settings or grab a tripod.

Other things to consider

If you have your own transportation, are willing to go on a long walk at night (which is really quite safe), or are staying away from a city location you may be able to see the lights without booking a tour. Many hotels offer aurora wake-up calls. Just ask when you check in and have yourself added to the list.

We saw the aurora on the boat tour, but the most impressive show we had was while sitting in our bedroom a short walk from downtown Reykjavík.

If you decide to do a tour, it’s best to schedule it early during your stay. Not only are the lights fickle, but you need clear skies to view them, and winter weather is mercurial. Iceland is one of those places that says “If you don’t like the weather, just wait 5 minutes,” and it’s true. On the day of our boat tour it had been sunny and clear all day. When we began our walk to the harbor, it was snowing heavily. By the time the ship made it out of the harbor, the skies were perfectly clear again.

Most of the tours will only go out if the aurora forecast is good, which means it’s likely they’ll have clear skies AND the solar weather necessary to produce a show.

Before booking, double check the company’s policy regarding repeat attempts as many of them will allow you to go out again without paying extra if your tour wasn’t successful.

Layers are your friend, especially with Iceland’s winds.

If you plan on photographing the lights, make sure to bring a tripod, or a monopod at a minimum.

Have you seen the aurora? If so, where?