How untouched? There are no banks or ATMs on the island.

Like typical Thai islands, it is a mix of beautiful beaches and luscious jungle. The group I was with stopped at a fishing village, and I found it to be very interesting. It gives you a great insight into the local culture and a way to see how a different group of Thai live. The experience added a level of diversity I found intriguing, and I wish that I both spoke Thai and had time to just sit and observe.

Sometimes I prefer the lazy American way of serving shrimp

Typical public transportation on the island

Thailand is famous for many of its islands, but unfortunately many of those islands have been drastically altered under the sometimes heavy hand of tourism. However, while on a press trip as part of the #TBEXAsia and #DiscoverThainess campaigns, I visited the delightful Thai island of Ko Wai, and I discovered there are still some places providing what I love most about islands.

Ko Wai is a short speedboat trip from Ko Chang, Thailand’s 2nd largest island (and the largest in eastern Thailand). You can also visit via Ko Mak. It gets its name from the vines that grow from many of the trees on the tiny island.

There are a few different accommodations here. The ones we visited were primitive bungalows located practically on the beautiful beach.

The water is crystal clear, and you don’t have to go far from the shore to see bunches of colorful fish. One can take a boat to other areas of the island where there is a larger amount of corals, too.

As it is a fairly primitive island, don’t except 24-hour electricity or multiple places to eat. Frankly, that’s part of the island’s allure in my mind. I love island escapes that basically force you to just relax and enjoy the natural beauty that surrounds you.

In addition to the gorgeous beauty, the interior of the island is covered in jungle. You can hike these areas, but be aware that some may be closed. The island is a nesting ground for birds, so some areas may be restricted. I also had the feeling that some areas were closed simply because the terrain was more treacherous.

There are a couple of restaurants and a small convenience store on this part of the island. You might want to bring some groceries with you, such as fruit and eggs, although at a quick glance the larger restaurant/convenience store was quite affordable.

What do you think? Can you see yourself spending some time on this Thai island?

We were not asked to write about the hotel; however, after spending 3 nights there and having several meals there, I can honestly say when I’m considering where to stay in Bangkok, I’ll be saving up money to stay here again.

It isn’t uncommon for hotels to do a bit extra for bloggers or journalists who are staying in their hotel. Obviously, they want to impress you. So when I had a welcome bowl of fruit and a selection of truffles served on an edible sign, I didn’t let that factor in to my opinion. I felt the same way when the night before we left for our various 3-day tours we all received another gift of edible “toiletries” as well as a rather nice apron. Excellent touches, but I wasn’t surprised we were getting some VIP treatment. After all, we were essentially guests of the government.

I became a little more impressed when I discovered the bowl of fruits was standard. Then I found little extras like a disposable razor and shaving cream as well as a toothbrush and toothpaste. Even better was the set of bath salts and eucalyptus oil placed by the bath tub.

I was further impressed by the truly amazing hot and cold breakfast buffet that was on hand every day. There were basically two separate rooms of food. After 3 days there, I still hadn’t sampled everything they offered.

Despite a pretty full hotel, a friend and I enjoyed having the terrace pool and poolside bar all to ourselves.

Of course, the service was excellent. People practically ran to open doors or push elevator buttons for you. I find that level of service a bit uncomfortable, but it’s also Thailand, and it’s hard to beat Thai customer service. It’s pretty rare to find grumpy service anywhere, but it’s definitely absent at this hotel.

The property is also well located. It’s within about 2 blocks of a BTS station. Plenty of restaurants, both local and touristic, are within an easy walk, and you’ll find plenty of local markets as well, especially at night. If you want to do some shopping, you’re in a perfect spot for it.

Typically, the WiFi in resorts is pretty poor, but theirs was really good.

One of the finest memories I’m left with from our stay was their Sunday brunch, though. It easily ranks in my top 5 of best meals I’ve ever had. I know it’s not a good thing to enjoy, but I do like foie gras. They had a foie gras bar that included the absolute best foie gras I’ve ever had. I seriously could not keep my eyes open while eating it.

One of my colleagues sitting next to me said “it was an experience” just watching me eat all the scrumptious delights they offered. There were at least 5 rooms of foods which also included a caviar bar, a sticky rice with mango bar, homemade ice creams, a pasta bar that also had squid ink pasta, and more. I enjoyed one of the duck dishes so much I begged them for the recipe. When I return to Bangkok, this brunch is on my list.

If you’re wondering where to stay in Bangkok, do yourself a favor and make the splurge to stay here even a couple of nights. It’s a phenomenal experience. Make sure to choose the package that includes the breakfast buffet. Trust me, you can’t go wrong with it.

Do you have any affordable luxury recommendations for Bangkok?

We had quite the adventure getting there from Bangkok’s Don Mueang airport. Once we were settled in, we began exploring the town on foot. We had opted to stay in the older part of the city, which is on an island in the Chao Praya River.

This small town was such a huge difference from Bangkok! Not only was the pace much slower, but the people were even more friendly (which is saying a lot), and it felt like we were getting introduced to a much different aspect of Thai culture. I also enjoyed rarely spotting another tourist.

Ruins

There are several ancient temple complexes on the island. The city was the 2nd capital of Siam, and in its heyday it was one of the largest cities in the world during that time. The areas within the historical park are the ruins of the capital of the old kingdom. The city was sacked and demolished by the Burmese in the late 1700s, and the historical park is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.

As you tour the various sites, you can see a lot of Khmer influence. I found myself wondering many times what they must’ve looked like before the fall of the kingdom.

Many of the sites are within walking distance of each other. When we visited, we did not have to deal with crowds at all, which made it extra nice.

Tips for visiting the ruins:

• Temple site names usually begin with the word wat.
• A scooter or bicycle would be helpful for getting around more easily. Or, you can hire a tuk-tuk driver for several hours to make dealing with the tropical heat easier. April is the beginning of the hell-hot season for Thailand, and Ayutthaya can be quite uncomfortable during the afternoon. Not a lot of shade will be found among the ruins, so a hat wouldn’t be a bad idea. You can find vendors selling water and other drinks at almost every site.
• Most of the ruins are not working temples, so there is no dress code. However, people are still asked to respect the buddhas: When taking photos next to a buddha, you are supposed to keep your head lower than the buddha’s. Don’t sit in its lap, climb it, put your arm around it like it’s your buddy, and so on. You should also avoid having the soles of your feet facing a buddha.
• Most of the sites don’t charge admission, but a few do charge a minimal fee. Children are usually free. The most I paid for an adult was 50 THB, less than $2 USD.
• The famous buddha’s head resting among tree roots is found at Wat Mahathat. This site does charge admission, and there is usually a guard next to the roped off section where the head is located. They will enforce proper respect for the buddha and the area. I saw them angrily correct a couple of tourists.
• Most of the hotels have free maps showing the various sites. The historical park usually has them available, too.

Temples

There are some really great modern temples in the city as well, especially across the river in the newer section. Some of them are quite quirky. They range from small to quite large. Ayutthaya is the site of the king’s summer palace, so there are some large temples which are quite interesting to explore.

Food

Some of the best food we had in Thailand was found here, especially in the night market. The day market is pretty good as well, but with the heat we found the night market to be much more enjoyable. I think our favorite was probably the grilled quail eggs spritzed with soy sauce and sprinkled with a bit of chile powder. Even Tigger raved about them. We ended up getting them almost every day.

This is a great place to soak up local culture and people watch as well. They start setting up earlier, but really it’s best to visit after 6 PM.

I can’t recommend any restaurants as we pretty much only ate street food the whole time we stayed here.

Lodging

There are plenty of budget places in the old city (on the island) with fancier options available right across the bridge. There is a wide selection of hostels, guest houses, and short-term apartments. We stayed at Somjai Place and were pretty pleased with it. It’s in a pretty central location, and you can rent a scooter from them directly which is nice.

Travel

Ayutthaya is a relatively short distance from Bangkok. We took the taxi from the airport simply because I couldn’t find the train station or the place for the mini buses, and no one I asked knew enough English to help me. However, when we returned to Bangkok, we took the third-class train. That was quite the experience, especially since it was on the tail end of the songkran festivities so the train was absolutely packed. Probably the easiest of the cheaper ways of traveling there is via bus. It will be more comfortable and air conditioned (which the 3rd-class train isn’t).

We spent just over a week in Ayutthaya and easily could’ve stayed longer. It’s the Thailand many visitors won’t experience. The ruins may not be as impressive as other temple sites in the Land of Smiles, but they are worth spending some time to see. And the fact that this is such a great town just makes it that much more worthwhile.

Food

Of course, I started with this topic! If you’re surprised, you must be new here.

We mostly eat street food, and Bangkok is street food heaven. Street food vendors are very commonly placed outside shopping malls, at night markets, near BTS stations, and so on. Some of the best street food we had, though, was at a huge night market off of the BTS On Nut station (exit away from the Tesco building).

Speaking of Tesco, the food court off of this same station has really great authentic Thai food that is extremely cheap, as in street food cheap. But you can eat indoors where it’s air-conditioned, which makes it extra nice. Check out the food places and decide what you want before heading over to the cashier and getting your payment card so you know how much to load your card with. You can get a refund on anything not used, but the card also works at Tesco food courts all over Thailand.

A surprise find for me was the international food court in the huge shopping plaza called MBK (BTS station National Stadium). The food there was wonderful, very reasonably priced, and there is a lot of selection. You can even find Mexican food there. (It’s American Mexican food, not the real stuff if you’re a Mexican food snob like me.)

When you select a Bangkok hotel, you’ll want to make sure it’s close to public transportation and to night markets or good street food sources.

Not your average food court meal!

Technology

I don’t know why, but we had several things go wrong with our computers and my smart phone just prior to landing in Thailand. I guess the Universe was cutting me some slack and waiting until we got there. If that’s true, thank you Universe! If not, well I’m happy it waited.

You can get pretty much anything fixed here, and you can get superb prices as well. Your best bet is to head to Pantip Plaza. I will give you a word of warning, though. It’s very easy to spend a LOT of money here. There are about 6 floors of pure technology offerings. Every device you can imagine or dream of!

We had our computers fixed by a couple of outstanding stores, so I wanted to share them with you. One didn’t have a business card in English, so it’s easiest to describe where they are. As you face the main entrance from the street, toward the right corner is a coffee place. Go in that direction and enter the plaza by the door right next to this. It will be the first little shop you come to on the ground floor and has a yellow sign. They’re really great, have fair prices, and warranty repairs for 6 months.

The one who ended up being an absolute wizard is H&A W2005, 4th floor, room 4108 (mobile 081-6688854). Everyone else who looked at my apparently dead internal WiFi card said they couldn’t replace it since they didn’t have the part. This woman took out the card, wiped the contacts with a rubber eraser, brushed the filings off, and it worked like brand new! She wouldn’t let me pay for her time either.

If you need a very cheap phone or tablet and don’t care if it’s genuine, you’ll find some absolutely great deals here. If you want brand name quality, I wouldn’t buy from the kiosks. Instead use one of the department stores where you’ll have recourse if there’s a problem. Also don’t forget to ask for your VAT refund form. You’ll need this to get a refund.

I can recommend Tesco’s electronics section as well. I found some phones that were better priced here than anywhere else, and they’re the real deal, complete with international warranties. I bought my HTC One V at the Tesco mentioned above, and I’m extremely pleased with it! I might actually use the L word when describing my phone, although I haven’t given it a name. Yet.

Tourist Sites

The Grand Palace is probably the most popular tourist site in Bangkok. At least the crowds were a lot more hellacious here. They are very strict about the dress code. If your shoulders are exposed, you’ll be asked to cover up or will be offered something to wear. Ditto for shorts. Even if they cover your knees, you’ll be asked to cover up. They do have clothes you can use for free (requires a 200 THB deposit per item). If you bring your own change of clothes, or a sarong, you can use the dressing room to change into and out of appropriate attire for your time on the grounds. You’ll also want to wear footwear that can easily be removed as you’ll need to remove them for any of the temples you wish to enter.

While the grounds have some impressive and colorful buildings, I had a hard time finding it worth the rather stiff 500 THB admission price (almost $17 per person; young children are half off). Your ticket does gives you admission into one of the museums (which wasn’t all that interesting to us) as well as the Vimanmek Mansion, which is located in a different area.

If you go, make sure to visit the throne rooms. They are amazing! Unfortunately, they don’t allow photography in those buildings, though, and they have attentive guards.

It’s easiest to use the wonderful river taxi system to get here from other areas of the city. When you come out of the building after exiting the boats, head straight to get to the Grand Palace. There aren’t obvious signs, and if you ask most people where it is they’ll tell you it’s closed and will try to get you to go elsewhere. This is a well-known scam. The grounds are open 7 days a week from 8:30 AM until 3:30 PM.

We enjoyed the nearby Wat Pho more, though. Not only were the crowds thinner, but it had more ambiance. It is open daily from 8 AM to 5 PM and costs a much more reasonable 50 THB (which also includes a bottle of water). The dress code is less strict here, but you will be asked to cover exposed shoulders. Shorts covering the knees should be fine, although women may be asked to cover up. It kind of seems to depend on whose working at the moment.

While you’re enjoying this wonderful temple, or wat, make sure to also stop by the Thai Traditional Medical Science School for massage. I’ve had different variation on Thai massages before, and the people here were by far the best. You can get everything from a foot/leg massage ($4 for 30 minutes, but there is an hour-long massage as well) to a traditional full body Thai massage.  It’s also air conditioned.

To head here first, exit the river taxi building and turn to your right. It’s a short walk, and you’ll see directional signs as the road curves.

Some people absolutely rave about Bangkok’s Chinatown. You will not find that response from me. I was extremely underwhelmed and felt that the food was really no different from anything else I could find in the city. If you’ve never been to a Chinatown, it could be worth your while. It really comes to life at night. Easily accessible by the river taxi.

Bangkok has lots of interesting parks, but Lumphini Park was my favorite. You almost forget you’re in a large city! Really quite gorgeous and calm, and you get a nice slice of local life.

Siam Ocean World is an aquarium in the base of the Paragon shopping plaza. Feedback has been highly varied by people I’ve spoken with. Looking at their exhibit offerings compared to their exorbitant 900 THB (children are 700 THB), I’d say skip this unless you just really have to see it and/or don’t mind blowing $30 USD per person over the age of 12. When an aquarium in southeast Asia charges more than one in Paris, it better absolutely blow my socks off, which is not the reaction I’ve heard from others, and I wasn’t about to spend $50 USD to form my own opinion.

Other things to do in Bangkok

This city has some rather unique and interesting neighborhoods. Just wandering around can be really fun.

If you’re a Thai food lover (HELLO!), I’d recommend taking a cooking class so you can prepare the dishes when you get back home. I took a class through Silom Thai Cooking School and really enjoyed it. The cook spoke very good English and was fun. One of the things I liked best about their program is that you learn how to prepare the curry paste AND the curry dish. Most of the classes I checked out did not offer this. The food we cooked together was quite delicious, and you get an attractive recipe booklet that includes their entire repertoire. She also gave us tips on how to replace certain things that are probably not as easy to find outside of Asia.

They do begin with a short market visit to get the ingredients, which I also found interesting. They suggest you eat a very light breakfast before the class. I’d say if you have more than a croissant and a cup of coffee, you’re going to feel like you’re about to burst. You’ll be eating a lot of food in this class, so make sure you leave room.

Bangkok has some absolutely wonderful movie theaters. You can find everything from normal seats to beds that lie completely flat. Watch a movie like a king while you places food and drink orders from the comfort of your bed as you enjoy the show. You’ll pay for that type of service, but there are some other more reasonable options that are still way more luxurious than any theater I’ve been to in the States. Most popular movies will be available in English (with Thai subtitles).

Hit the less-famous weekend and night markets. Not only will you find good deals, but it’s a great cultural experience, and I’ve found some of the absolute best Thai food in these places.

How about bowling? I know, you didn’t come to Bangkok to go bowling. Some of these alleys are more like clubs than the bowling alley you’re probably used to, though. If anything, swing by some night and check them out. They’re pretty interesting. Complete with laser shows, DJs, sometimes live music, you name it. SF Strike Bowl in the MBK is pretty fun.

There are tons of partial or full-day side trips available, from river tours to nearby UNESCO World Heritage site Ayutthaya.

Some people only plan a few days when they come here, but I think that’s a big mistake. There are just so many things to do in Bangkok, and nearby, that it’s a fabulous base. I’d recommend giving it some time.

What are your favorite activities or places in Bangkok?

Noise

Thailand has a calmer culture. You honk only when it’s necessary. Traffic noise is really pretty quiet for a big city. Actually, so is most of the noise. Sure, every so often you’ll have a club thump thump thumping into the night, but generally speaking it’s pretty mellow.

Hanoi is not. Hanoi loves its noise. It cherishes it. It has far more motor bikes than cars, and they’re loud. That’s before you factor in all the honking. All the freakin’ time.

But variety is the spice of life, and the noise isn’t limited to just honking and engines. We also have the cars that drive slowly through the neighborhoods blaring announcements and what sound like infomercials. At night, the place gets a rockin’ from loud music. Thankfully, we’ve at least been spared the karaoke that is reminiscent of cats doing the dance of love in alleyways.

Food

Vietnamese food is really quite good, but Thai food kicks it culinary butt in my book. If you don’t like eating with chopsticks, definitely stay in Bangkok. (I love them personally, but I know not everyone does, including Tigger.) From what I’ve seen in Hanoi, I would also say that Thai food in Bangkok is fresher. Most Thai food is prepared as it’s ordered, whereas a lot of the Vietnamese food we’ve seen in Hanoi is prepared and just waiting to be ordered.

Another interesting thing about Vietnamese restaurants and booths is that they often specialize in and serve only one specific dish. Can make ordering things a bit easier, though.

Prices are fairly similar. Depending on what you order, you can eat in both cities for around the same cost (around $1-2 per serving).

If you tend to be a bit more. . . squeamish about street food, stick with Bangkok. The food there is cooked on grills and in woks while the person stands. In Hanoi most street food is prepared just above the ground, with everyone walking by, with the person squatting next to it. I have no concern with it, but someone who is more sensitive might not enjoy that.

Ditto when it comes to comfort level while dining. Street food vendors in Hanoi have limited, very low tables and chairs that make me feel like I’m visiting a preschool. Obviously, it works for them, but for my Western hiney and my bad knees, it’s rough and uncomfortable. In Bangkok, you’ll find more comfortable seating (or you walk around with your food).

Note: Restaurants in Hanoi have standard seating and often have flatware. That food is quite a bit more expensive, though, just as it would be in Bangkok.

Walkability

Bangkok is a pedestrian’s friend compared to Hanoi. If there is a busy street, you will easily find an overpass so that you can get to the other side safely. On a less busier street, most Thai drivers, including taxis, will slow down or even stop so that you can cross. Even if you’ve gone against the light, Thais are too polite to honk at you or run you over.

Hanoi, the City of Lakes, does not have this compunction. Crossing the street here is an event. Generally speaking, scooters, bicycles, and motorcycles will just move around you. The drivers of cars, however, are seemingly only too happy to plow right over you.

While the Venice of the East has sidewalks that are in fairly decent repair, Hanoi doesn’t want you bored while you’re out for your stroll. You’ll have plenty of cement obstacles to keep you awake.

Bangkok makes getting around without a car quite a bit easier, too. Taxis are also cheaper in Bangkok.

Escaping the heat

Both countries are a warmth-loving person’s friend. But temps in the 40s (Celsius) can be quite sweltering. In Bangkok, it’s very easy to tuck into a place with AC to get a reprieve. Hanoi offers a bit more of a challenge to that. A lot of places just have fans running indoors. If you can sit right in the fan’s path, you’ll be fine, but those seats are often already occupied. Bangkok has a fondness for large shopping centers that is not shared by Hanoi’s more humble surroundings.

Culture

This is really a big one for me personally. Thailand is the Land of Smiles. When you purchase something, a clerk will hand you your money carefully, often holding it in both open palms, while giving you a dazzling smile. In Hanoi, they fling your dong (the name of the Vietnamese money) at you, rarely crack a smile, and just seem surly. It might be exaggerated for us since we’ve spent the last few months in very friendly Thailand and Malaysia, but I’ve read similar comments from other people so I’m thinking it’s a cultural reality here in Vietnam.

In Thailand, I always felt welcomed. When we had a struggle communicating, it usually ended up with both of us laughing as we worked our way through it. Hanoi has a much grumpier crowd. Many of the merchants I’ve dealt with have acted like we were inconveniencing them with our business. I’ve watched and seen that locals are treated the same way. It’s just how it is here.

The touts and cyclo and motorcycle taxi drivers are much more aggressive than the ones in Bangkok. From what I’ve seen, I’m going to chalk that up to a different economic situation between the two cities. Nevertheless, it’s part of the experience and can affect different people different ways.

Safety

I never once felt at risk in Bangkok and was generally left alone. Yeah, we had the occasional taxi driver that didn’t want to use the meter and the people who tried to convince us the Grand Palace was closed when it wasn’t, but pretty much that was the extent of it.

Hanoi exhausts me. Not only do we have all the honking, “fun” street crossings, and the heat to deal with, but scammers are out in full force. During our first 30-minute walk, I spotted no less than 5 people actively sizing me up (even Tigger caught it a couple of times, which tells you something), and disappointed at least one possible pickpocketing attempt.

I have felt much more “on guard” in Hanoi than anywhere else we’ve been.

Activities

Comparing things to do and see in Bangkok versus Hanoi, I’m going to give Bangkok the win in this category as well. There is more of a variety of things to do in Bangkok than in Hanoi. And the former makes it so much easier and affordable to get around and experience things.

Getting there and visas

Thailand gives most countries a free, no hassle, 30-day stamp upon airport entry (overland visitor get 15 days). Vietnam requires an advance visa and charges a $45 USD stamping fee per person. You can get a visa on arrival, but you have to go through an online agency which charges its own service fee on top of the stamping fee you’ll pay at the immigration office.

Flying to Bangkok is usually much cheaper as well, unless you’re flying from another Asian country. Even then, prices are generally lower flying into Bangkok than Hanoi.

On a side note, Thailand’s rail system is better and cheaper as well.

If you’ve decided Thailand is the place for you, here are some cheap hotels in Bangkok.

Tigger’s perspective

Hanoi has “crazy insane roads,” and he’s nervous crossing the street here. He also feels Bangkok is a lot safer than Hanoi. (We haven’t discussed my opinion regarding this, and I haven’t said much to him about any of this.)

Summary

Comparing the two cities is really a lot like comparing apples and oranges. They’re both Asian countries, but that’s where the big similarities really end. We feel like we’re in a completely different world here in Vietnam compared to the other countries we’ve been in Southeast Asia.

That isn’t necessarily bad.

We have found Thailand to be a very easy country. That’s not always the best thing when you’re looking for experiences, but it helps explain to me why so many people go there and end up staying a long time. It’s also an extremely welcoming culture, which is quite enjoyable.

If you aren’t an experienced traveler, I would probably steer you toward Bangkok compared to Hanoi. I feel like the level of scams and awareness you need, the lack of infrastructure, and some of the cultural differences in Hanoi are going to tax a person more than using Bangkok as an introduction to SE Asia.

Hopefully, the above will assist you in deciding whether to visit Bangkok or Hanoi first.

What are your thoughts? Which of the two do you prefer and why? Would love to read your comments!

Taxis

Bangkok taxi drivers have a well-earned reputation. It is law that they use the meter, but many of them will ignore that and refuse to take you if you insist on the meter. It is worth insisting on the meter, though.

This is our 3rd time dealing with transportation in Bangkok, and taxis have been my greatest source of frustration. The amount they want to overcharge you can be anywhere from 2-10 times more than the metered fare. This can easily represent an overage of $8 or more.

Advice varies. Often I’ve been told the green & yellow taxis are more reliable with using the meter.  However, I’ve had more luck with the hot pink taxis than any of the other colored taxis, which is kind of ironic since I absolutely despise the Pepto-Bismol shade of pink.

When we first arrived in Bangkok by train, we went through 12 taxis before finding one that would turn on the meter. The other 11 drivers attempted to get everywhere from 6-10 times what the meter ended up showing. This continued throughout most of our first stay. On our 3rd arrival, we came by train yet again. This time the 1st taxi I flagged turned the meter on. Of course, the police were standing right there so that might have had something to do with it.

Still, I’ve taken the taxis a few times since, and this time has been much easier. Here are some general guidelines:

• You’ll generally have an easier time if you hail a cab in motion. The ones sitting at curbside are less inclined to use the meter. Having said that, if there is a uniformed person directing a taxi queue, you can tell this person you want the meter, and they’ll tell the driver in Thai. It makes thing easier.
• On the lower part of the passenger-side windshield you’ll notice a small black box. If there is a red LED character lit, the taxi is registered on the system. This increases the likelihood that they’ll use the meter.
• Don’t discuss using the meter until you’re sitting in the cab. Get in, tell them the destination, and wait. If they don’t offer you a rate, they’re probably going to use the meter. If they don’t, however, wait until they’re in motion and remind them to turn the meter on.
• In most cities, the advice is to take a picture of their taxi’s ID or license. In Bangkok, that’s not a good idea. Apparently, some people have had nearly violent responses to this. If you’re going to take a photo, do it discretely. Otherwise, just write the number down. It will be on the license plate as well as some small plates in the passenger areas inside the cab.
• Unless you’re going a short distance, and there are more than 2 of you, the BTS SkyTrain will usually be cheaper. Most rides on the SkyTrain will cost around 30-45 THB per person.
• If a taxi driver wishes to use the express highway, they will usually tell you. That’s their way of asking you if it’s okay because you will have to pay those fees en route (on top of the metered rate). The tolls are usually around 45 THB (about $1.50). Going from near downtown to the airport will require about 2 tolls. From the train station, it’s one. If you don’t wish to pay the tolls, tell them “no express.”  Although with Bangkok’s traffic, you’ll probably want to take the express.
• Many of the drivers have limited English. If you’re going somewhere that isn’t a major tourist destination or a very popular hotel, it’s a good idea to look up the place on Google Maps and take a photo of the Thai characters for them. Also make note of the district it’s in (often the same name as the nearest BTS station).
• Generally speaking, a taxi around town will cost between 50 and 100 THB, but obviously that will be increased for really far distances. Often the driver will just refuse to take you if it’s too far. They probably aren’t trying to be jerks. It just may not be financially practical for them. Sometimes you’ll need a combination of BTS and taxi to get to a location.
• Note that if you grab a taxi at the airport to go into town, you may be assessed an extra 50 THB fee. This is valid as they’re charged a surcharge. One way to get around this is to go to the departure area and grab one of the cabs dropping someone off. They won’t have the surcharge.

Tuk-tuks

These are motorcycle-powered modes of transportation. They tend to be worse to deal with than even taxi drivers, and there is no meter system for tuk-tuks. Generally, it isn’t advised to take them except for extremely short distances. A big reason for this is the amount of car pollution you’re exposed to while they navigate traffic. They are also often more expensive than taxis.

Motorcyle taxi

These are used for very short distances. They usually set up shop near BTS stations and other places that receive a lot of foot traffic. They are often located under awnings, and the drivers wear an orange vest. To take this mode of transportation, you hop on the back of the motorcycle or scooter while the driver weaves through traffic. Fares usually start at around 20 THB. If you’re someone who is a bit more on the nervous side, I wouldn’t recommend taking this type of taxi.

BTS SkyTrain

The SkyTrain is an elevated train that runs through a large portion of the most popular areas of Bangkok. It’s a very modern system that is nicely air conditioned. In fact, it can even be downright chilly. Here is one of the best route maps I’ve found. Trains begin service at 6 AM, and most run until just after midnight.

Most routes will cost between 30-45 THB. Children under 90 cm tall are free and need to be carried through the automated gate. Over that height they pay full fare. A 1-day pass is available for 130 THB (purchase at the ticket counter). You can use their interactive map to determine the approximate time of travel and the fare per person for your specific travel situation.

Generally, to get a ticket you’ll want to use the machines. BTS has a great tutorial on their website. If you need coins, go to the ticket window and tell them how much you need for your fare and give them the paper money. They’ll give you back the necessary coins.

Once you’ve used the card to enter the gate, make sure you hold onto it. You’ll need it when you exit. The automatic gate will retain the card upon exit. Yay for recycling! Transfers are included in the fare.

If your exit is next to a large shopping center or other popular destination, there will usually be a specific one which provides a convenient walkway. As you exit the platform, you’ll usually find a local map directly in front of you at the bottom of the stairs. These are super helpful in selecting the correct exit.

MRT

This is Bangkok’s underground metro system, and it runs from 6 AM to midnight. It covers areas that the BTS doesn’t. When you view the combined BTS and MRT route map, the MRT lines are in dark blue.

A single journey will cost between 16 and 40 THB. The MRT considers anyone under age 14 and under 120 cm as a child, and their rate is 50% of the adult fare.

River taxis

This is a really fun way to get around parts of Bangkok, especially the really popular areas like some of the big temples. the Grand Palace, Chinatown, etc. The central pier is easily accessible by the BTS SkyTrain. The river taxis can extend north of the city into some of the areas less frequented by tourists.

The cheaper public boats each fly a specific colored flag to let you know their route. There is a map at each pier so that you can determine which flagged boat you will need. Keep in mind that different colored routes may only run during part of the day. The orange route is your best bet as it runs all day (6 AM to 19:00/7 PM) and stops at most places. The boats that are unflagged may refuse foreigners. I’m not sure why. Most sources don’t recommend the “no flag” boats anyway as they operate more sporadically and are often slower.

Different routes have different fares, but most are 20 THB or less. The tourist boat charges 40 THB, and there is a one-day pass available for 150 THB.

• You have to get through the seemingly endless array of touts to get to the pier. Some of them will tell you the orange line isn’t running or won’t stop at that pier. That is usually a lie. Ignore them and keep walking until you’re in the queue for the boat. Most of them are selling tours that are far more expensive than the route you’re choosing. For example, today we were quoted 500 THB by someone even though I told them “no tour.” The actual fare for the public boat was 15 THB per person. You could easily work out your own river tour by using the public boats for far less. Even the tourist boat only charges 150 THB for the entire day.
• Do NOT pay at a ticket window or anywhere else for the public boats (yellow and orange lines). You pay on the boat (and they’ll make change for you as long as the bill isn’t too large). The blue line is a tourist boat, and you will often pay for that at a ticket window that has appropriate signage.
• Sometimes they will call out the name of the next pier, but don’t count on it. Each pier has a number, so it’s wise to keep count of them as not every pier’s number is visible from the boat. When you are getting close to your stop, make sure you line up at the back of the boat so they know you want to disembark at the next station. Otherwise, they may not stop.
• The person collecting the fares will walk around with a metal tube filled with coins. They shake it as they walk. Just signal to them, and they’ll stop by to collect your fare and give you a ticket. You won’t need this ticket after you leave the boat, but you may want to hold onto it until you’ve disembarked just in case you need to prove you paid.

Conclusion

The above information may seem like a lot, but most situations are quite intuitive and simple. The river taxi stations are probably the most daunting if you are unprepared because of the chaos of the crowds and all the people trying to sell you stuff, but once you’ve managed to get on and off your first boat, it’s really quite easy.

Now you can sort out transportation in Bangkok like a pro!

Do you have any other tips to add? Would love your comments.

In mid April, some of the southeast Asian countries celebrate their new year. In Thailand, it is referred to as songkran. What was once a humble Buddhist celebration that involved the ritual bathing of buddha statues with scented water has evolved into a 4-day countrywide massive water fight (unless you’re in Chiang Mai where it can stretch into a whole week).

When visiting Thailand during songkran, you don’t leave your lodging unless you’re wearing clothes that you’ll be comfortable getting soaked in. Most locals and tourists carry small plastic bags that will accommodate money and their cell phone. Only the elderly (although many of them join in, too) and some of the monks are spared. Pretty much any time of the day you can expect to be doused.

Don’t worry. Thailand is usually very hot this time of year, so you’ll probably appreciate the cooling down.

Homes and businesses will often have large buckets of water, children’s pools, etc., filled with water by the road. The children are usually armed with bowls and water guns while the adults enlist large buckets to drench passersby. Some of them don’t bother with buckets and just shoot you with water from a hose.

Watch out for pickup trucks, too. Passengers in the back are only too happy to soak people as they drive by.

The holiday can also involve dressing up in floral shirts, wearing masks, and even cross dressing. Basically the idea of songkran is to have fun. And the Thais go out of their way to make sure it is a blast. No pun intended.

In addition to being drenched with water, some Thais will “bless you” by putting a mixture of flour or talcum powder, water, and possibly menthol on your face. The cheeks are the best for this. If they put it on your forehead, when you get water dumped over your head your eyes are going to be unhappy.

Different cities and towns have their own special nuances. Bangkok, being a very large city, is probably more sedate and has official water fight areas, as well as a long list of other rules (which may or may not be ignored).

Chiang Mai really gets into it and is probably the most fun spot in all of Thailand for celebrating songkran. Part of the city is surrounded by a moat which makes refilling your weapon of choice much easier. Even the police are known to get into water battles with people.

We chose Ayutthaya for our songkran experience. We wanted a less-crowded town that was more laid back. Ayutthaya is also home to some UNESCO World Heritage sites, so we had great places to explore before the festivities began. One of the main reasons we headed there, though, was because elephants join the celebration. It sounded like too much fun to be able to participate in a citywide water fight and to get sprayed by elephants.

We made the right choice for sure.

Songkran is easily the most fun and unusual holiday we’ve ever experienced. There are no strangers. Everyone in the city are friends, gleefully celebrating together, dancing together in the streets, and splashing and shooting people with water as much as they can. I walked around with a huge smile on my face the whole day. And I wasn’t alone. Tigger and I both agree that more cultures need to celebrate songkran. I’ve never seen a whole city come together like this to just celebrate and be joyous together. Happy new year indeed!

What is the most fun holiday or festival you’ve experienced?

Quicker but more expensive

If you have less time or just don’t like the idea of spending 20+ hours traveling, your only viable option is to fly. Depending when you fly, you can easily find fares from $46 USD to around $150. Of course, that’s before any applicable luggage fees kick in.

The cheapest flights will probably be by AirAsia, will take about 7 hours, and include one layover requiring you to change planes. You’ll arrive at the low-cost airport DMK, which is a different location than the airport coded BKK. Make sure to account for transit time if you’re flying from BKK the same day.

Paying extra, you can take a direct one-hour flight to Bangkok via Bangkok Airways.

The adventurous way

Travel is all about the adventure, right? Here’s where the fun begins.

Your best bet is to drop into one of the many booking agents on the island. As of publication, there is no easy way to reserve train tickets online. You could certainly be really adventurous and not book ahead. An agent will charge you an additional 200 THB (less than $7), and it’s worth it.

Why? Keep reading.

Getting off the island to the train station in Surat Thani is a multistep process. You need to get to the pier, get on the ferry, and take a bus to the train station. You could take a taxi from the ferry if you like spending money, though.

If you use an agent, they will not only reserve your train but will also provide transportation to the ferry and arrange for all the steps in between. A songthaew (the roaming pickup truck local transport) to the pier will cost you almost as much as the booking fee. Just use an agent.

For the train you have a few options:

• Third class: Fans and a seat that doesn’t recline. Keep in mind that generally your train will be leaving at 10 PM and arriving in Bangkok at around 6:30 AM the following day. Not worth saving a few dollars in my book.
• Second class: This is really quite comfortable. You’ll probably want to spend a few extra dollars for a lower berth. These berths are wider and give you a window. The upper berths are more narrow and closer to the lights which never are turned off. These cars are air-conditioned quite thoroughly. In the morning, they’ll convert the berths into seats. If you want a lower berth, I’d try to make the reservation at least 3-4 days in advance.
• First class: This is a private sleeper compartment. These tend to fill up faster, so you’ll want to reserve these at least a week or two in advance. Unless you just want the experience and extra privacy, second class is really the way to go in my opinion.

It cost us 1900 THB total (about $63) for 2 passengers with 2nd-class upper berths.

Once you pay for your fare, they’ll most likely have you return later in the evening to pick up your actual tickets. They will arrange for a minivan to pick you up at your hotel or wherever you’re staying. At the pier, you’ll go through a line to get your bus ticket. The bus will drive you to the ferry and tell you to get off. Follow the crowd of people to the ferry waiting area.

You won’t board the bus again until after the ferry docks at the mainland.

The ferry is pretty stable. I barely noticed any movement at all, so if you tend to get motion sickness you’ll probably be fine on this ride. If you’re very sensitive, pop a pill after getting off the bus.

The ferry has food and drinks for sale, but there are also some places across the street from the bus loading area, including a 7-11. You can even get a massage on the ferry.

After departing the ferry, follow the walkway to the parking lot. Usually the buses park at the end of the parking lot straight ahead.

The bus trip is about 2 to 2-1/2 hours to the train station. They will drop you off across the street from the train terminal. Chances are you’ll have at least a few hours before your train is scheduled to arrive. If you’d like, you can leave your luggage locked up with an attendant for a few dollars. (Enter the train terminal, walk to the sitting area, and turn to your left. Go past the police desk, and you’ll see the sign on your left.)

In the evenings, the busy street behind where you were dropped off has a night market with great and super cheap street food.

There isn’t a lot to do in this area. However, if you need WiFi, there are several cafes in the immediate neighborhood where you can relax for a bit.

The train station is open air with some fans.

In the morning, you can go to the restaurant car or be served at your seat. Most meals cost 120 THB (about $4) and are very tasty (I recommend the rice soup with chicken), and they have plenty of items even for more finicky palates.

The restrooms on this particular train are actually quite clean. For 2nd class, you’ll find your choice of Western or squat toilet, and each will have toilet paper available. There is a small sink outside the bathrooms which is nice if you don’t like brushing your teeth in the same space as the toilet.

Realize, also, that trains in Thailand generally don’t follow their posted schedule very tightly. You won’t want to book things on the other end too tightly.

Will I actually get any sleep?

I’m a pretty light sleeper, but I was still able to get a decent sleep. Not great sleep, but decent. I was also in an upper berth which wasn’t as comfortable. I would highly recommend bringing an eye mask and ear plugs if you’re not a deep sleeper.

We made it! Now what?

The train station is Bangkok is the terminus which makes it easy for knowing when it’s time to exit the train. From the train station you can go to the MRT to get into town, or you can grab a taxi or tuk tuk. I wouldn’t recommend the latter for far distances.

If you’re taking a taxi, insist they use the meter. This may give you some extra gray hairs (we went through 10-12 taxis before finding one that would turn the meter on), but it will save you $8-10 USD. To get from the train station to the center of Bangkok will cost around 80-120 THB (without the meter, the drivers will try and get you to pay 300-500 THB). Generally, metered taxis will be cheaper than the SkyTrain or MRT.

Taxi tip: Look on the windshield for a large black box. If it’s lit, it means they’re registered and are more likely to not fight you about the meter.

If you have the time, I’d really recommend taking the van > bus > ferry > bus > train method. Yes, it takes longer, but it’s really an interesting way of going from Koh Samui to Bangkok, and you’ll see some absolutely beautiful rural scenery along the way.

When time isn’t an issue, what’s your favorite mode of long-distance motorized transportation?

When we were planning on visiting Thailand, Koh Samui, also referred to simply as Samui, was not a place I had planned on visiting. I had considered its neighbor Koh Tao because of the available diving, but not being a big fan of highly touristed places, basically that whole group of islands was off my list.

Then in the latter part of our Morocco stay, we were offered a housesitting gig taking care of 5 cats while living in a bungalow that was practically on the beach. How could we resist!

We flew to the island rather than the alternate, and more typical, route of taking an overnight train from Bangkok to Surat Thani, catching a bus to the coast, and hopping on a ferry. That just didn’t sound appealing after a 12-hour flight from Paris.

This was our first introduction to Thailand. We quickly saw that the Land of Smiles was accurate. Most of the locals had at least a rudimentary knowledge of English which made things a bit easier in some regards, but was almost always entertaining. Both for us and for them.

On our 2nd night on the island, we hit the tourism-driven walking market in Chaweng Beach. (Each town has its own walking market, so there are about 4 a week total.) It was Tigger’s first exposure to the wonders of the night market, and we happily indulged in extremely yummy street food.

We had the use of a scooter which made it quite handy to get around, especially since taxi prices on Samui are outrageous (easily double that of Bangkok). Here’s what we quickly discovered about the island:

• Rules of the road are really more like guidelines. Vehicles generally travel on the left-hand side of the road, but “generally” is the key word here. If it’s a short distance, or simply easier, expect traffic coming at you head-on, too.
• The island doesn’t have a lot of middle ground in terms of development. You’re either in an area that’s highly developed or barely at all. This kind of makes it handy when you’re wanting to avoid the hordes of inebriated Russian tourists, though.
• You don’t have to worry about running out of gas. If there isn’t a gas station nearby, someone is selling it on the roadside.
• I haven’t done an official count, but I believe there are possibly more massage places than people.
• There are lots of temples, and most of them are fairly young.
• If you aren’t into drinking/clubbing or lazing on the beach, you’re going to be bored out of your skull.
• All those wonderfully low food prices you see people talking about in Thailand are on the mainland. (Islands are typically more expensive anyway.)
• Usually some of the best street food in an area is available in the fresh markets, but this is not the case on Samui.

I didn’t really have a lot of expectations when coming to Samui. I did no research and didn’t ask people for tips or anything. After all, we were going to be living there for at least a month. I wanted the joy of discovery.

But we didn’t discover much that was special. Really, there just isn’t much to Samui. It’s a beautiful island, but for the first time in my life I’ve encountered an island that I was quite eager to leave.

Basically, I’d have to say if you’re looking for islands to visit in Thailand, leave Koh Samui off your list. Thailand has much better places to visit.

Have you ever been to a place and thought “Why do people come here?” Where was it?