You know a tour is going to be good when your first stop is at a bar to sample palinka and Unicum. In case you aren’t familiar with Unicum, it’s a Hungarian herbal liqueur. It’s made from a secret recipe containing more than 40 herbs and is aged in oak casks. It’s used as a digestif or aperitif and is considered to have health benefits.

Next up is a stop at the famous Central Market, probably the most visited market in Europe. It was built in the late 1890s. It was heavily damaged during World War II but has been renovated to its former splendor and is a popular spot for both locals and tourists. Many restaurants do their shopping here.

After eating a delicious variety of sausages, we headed to a place selling Transylvanian cheeses and other products. Transylvania stretches from Hungary through Romania and was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Some of our favorite foods in Romania were from this region. We sampled a nice selection of regional cheeses as well as the very popular Túró Rudi.

No food tour in Budapest would be complete without visiting a kávéház or coffee house. These establishments were a vital part of daily life in Budapest in the early to mid 1900s. There were over 500 in the city which meant there was literally one on every corner. Some were quite popular with writers and poets. Often they were actually an attraction, so many of the coffee houses had special sections for them to sit where they could have free ink and paper, chat, and have specially discounted meals. They would often stay there all day, and people often visited that specific coffee house to get a glimpse or a chance to interact with some of these famous artists.

The coffee house we visited has preserved their “writers’ galley” and some of the decorations pay homage to the more famous of their regular patrons.

These places aren’t just for coffee, though. Many serve a full menu, and they usually have a confectionary offering delicious cakes and pastries. Some of the coffee houses are small, intimate affairs, while others are quite glamorous.

The tour continues to a restaurant across from the beautiful academy of music building. I had some amazing Mangalica pork gulyás (aka goulash) and the best langos I’ve eaten. They also have some really good hot sauce. It’s the first time in Europe I’ve had a hot sauce that actually had a kick to it. It was accompanied by a delicious pasta dish with a cream sauce and smoked bacon.

Then it’s time for some cookies at a lovely tea house. The cookies are small and packed with flavor. They use only natural ingredients and also have sugar-, milk-, and gluten-free options for those requiring those varieties. It’s a really cute place to just sit and relax over a nice tea, lemonade, coffee, and some wonderful baked goods.

The tour finishes with a visit to a local coffee chain that has become so popular they have opened franchises internationally. Their coffee menu is so big it was hard to choose which one to try!

Nora is a very good tour guide and has lots of wonderful information. She has a passion for food and it shows. I think one of the best parts of her tours is that she tends to focus only on places that would be frequented by locals, and most of them are small shops rather than large businesses. As a small business owner myself, I greatly appreciate that, and as a visitor who likes to stick to local products as much as possible this is a fantastic focus.

So if you’re coming to Budapest and are interested in a food tour, definitely check them out. They have various types of tours, and I think you’ll really enjoy doing their tour(s).

Do you enjoy doing food tours? What has been your favorite?

Because there are so many varying tastes out there, I only list restaurants that I have personally visited. I can be rather picky about food quality and am not ashamed of that, although I do try not to be a full-blown food snob.

When discussing prices, please keep in mind that means from a Budapest perspective. I would say average restaurant prices in Budapest restaurants are around $5-6 USD for a main dish (although certainly can be lower).

Hungarian Food

If you haven’t tried something more than the infamous guylas (goulash), you’re missing out. Unlike what most people think of when considering Eastern European food, Hungarian cuisine has quite a bit of flavor. Paprika is an essential ingredient in Hungarian dishes, and it isn’t the slightly pungent spice you’re probably used to. In Hungary, there are many different kinds of paprika, and there is a sense of national pride about this spice.

The traditional cuisine was suppressed during the Communist regime when families and restaurants were expected to eat dishes from the national cookbook. With Communism long gone from the nation, traditional dishes are seeing a resurgence, and I’m so glad! Hungarian food is quite varied and very delicious.

As you might expect, pork holds a prominent place in these dishes (about 47% of meat consumption in Hungary), but goose, duck, and fish are also quite popular.

Korhely Faloda & Daloda is a wonderful restaurant located in the Liszt Ferenc square right across from the gorgeous Academy of Music. There is outdoor seating during the pleasant seasons. I went here as part of a food tour and had the Mangalica pork with langos, and it was phenomenal. Their langos was the best I’ve had in Budapest, and I’ve had a lot of langos.

Their prices are more toward the expensive side for Budapest, but most visitors will consider them pretty reasonable, especially if you’ve recently spent time in western Europe.

If you’re visiting with kids, this is a great spot because they can run around the square and burn off their extra energy while you enjoy your meal.

Jewish Hungarian

Hungary was home to one of the largest Jewish populations in Europe, and it still boats a large number today. The former Jewish district has some of the most delicious Hungarian food found in Budapest. It also is home to some of the better ethnic food restaurants in the city.

Kádár Étkezde is one of my top recommendations for Hungarian and Jewish cuisine. If you were just walking by, you probably wouldn’t stop in, and that would be a mistake. The atmosphere is very much like a small town diner, and the food is fabulous. My favorite dish there was the paprikas csirke (paprika chicken). Although, I did have other dishes there and they were all great. Servers don’t speak a lot of English, but they do have a menu in English.

Another great restaurant, although a bit pricier, is Fülemüle Étterem. I highly recommend the cholent dishes, but you can’t go wrong with any of their selections. Food preparation takes a bit more time, so don’t come here if you’re in a rush. It’s totally worth it. We like their goose cracklings as an appetizer.

For dessert or breakfast, you definitely want to have some flodni from the cafe/bakery Noe Cukrászda.

If you want a better vegetarian selection or perhaps some fusion Jewish cuisine, check out the slightly pricy Kőleves vendéglő. Their menu is pretty outstanding and unique. If you want something a bit simpler, eat in their outdoor garden next door. They have hammocks hanging around the bar. Friends tell me this place also has the best barbecue in Budapest.

Food Trucks

As the food scene matures and evolves in Budapest, there are some standouts worth visiting. If you like food trucks, head on over to Karavan. The Langos Mashogy truck is pretty good, and the langos dough isn’t fried until you place order, so it’s very fresh. However, if you are in a rush, you may not want to stop here. It can take a while to get your food if they’re busy.

Across from the langos truck is Mangalica és Tarsai truck. They serve meat dishes, sandwiches, pasta, and soups. I haven’t tried their meats, but I did have a sweet potato curry soup that was absolutely delicious. I’ll be going back for sure.

In the same area, you’ll also find a Zing Burger truck. They have the best burgers we’ve had in Budapest.

Kolbice is a rather unique food offering. Basically, they’re small sausages (various meats available, including duck sausage) served in a bread cone with various other ingredients and a flavorful sauce.

 Simple Fare

No list from me would be complete without telling you about bagels if they’re available. Because I care so deeply about my readers, I undertook the difficult but necessary research to be able to find and recommend the best bagel place in the city. Without a doubt, go to Budapest Bagel and nowhere else. I had the duck liver and pear bagel, and Oh. My. Gawd.

Another good langos place is Retro Palacinta which is located outside the Arany Janos (M3) metro station and had some really wonderful langos. It’s also incredibly cheap.

BITE Bakery is a place we’ve ended up visiting semi regularly. They have some really good Cinnabon knockoffs, but we also really like their pretzels—pizza or bacon. They’re a bit on the pricey side for bakery items but not overly so.

If you love a good sandwich, then I highly recommend Meat & Sauce. We’ve tried various items from their menu and have not been disappointed. The meat is very good quality and the sauces are fantastic. I loved their onion rings which have a tempura batter, and the roast duck breast salad was very yummy. It is one of the very few places that has earned a 10 from Tigger.

Ricci’s World Jewish Street Food is a great stop for sandwiches, soup, and other similar items. The name is a bit misleading as most of the food really isn’t Jewish. The restaurant really serves more of a fusion cuisine with some of it being inspired by Jewish Hungarian food. They have plenty of outdoor seating with a nice beer garden in the back.

Ethnic/Regional Cuisine

I’m always on the lookout for things like Thai food and other ethnic cuisine when we travel.

Asian

Hai Nam Pho Bistro is located on the Buda side of the city. The food was spectacular. Most of the staff are Vietnamese, and the food is very similar to what we had while in Vietnam. The pho was huge and delicious. Tips: They don’t accept credit cards, and they also don’t accept tips. As in we left money, and they specifically came to us as we exited to return the money and inform us of their policy.

Since we were here a year ago, more pho and Vietnamese places have sprung up, so I’ll be trying them out.

For Thai food, visit KisParázs Thai Soup & Wok Bar. It’s a very small restaurant, but the food was really good. It seemed like some of the cook staff were Thai, which is always a plus. I’m very picky about my green curry, and it’s kind of my standard test of a Thai place. I had been in Thailand just a few months prior, and the curry they served here was very close to what I had in Bangkok. The only bummer is they don’t serve Thai iced tea. They also do home delivery!

If you’re a ramen fan, head over to Ramenka. The prices are a bit more moderate, but the serving size is pretty huge. Their gyoza are probably the best I’ve ever had. Service can be a bit on the surly side, but that’s really pretty typical customer service in central and eastern Europe.

Cajun/Creole

If you’re craving some good jambalaya or American-style BBQ, head over to Soul Food. They offer other types of food as well, and Tigger says their burger is the best of the non-chain (i.e., TGI Friday’s) ones.

Mexican

If you need a Mexican food (Southwest or Tex-Mex in the US) fix, there are a lot of options. So far Mucho Burrito located in the WestEnd mall holds the crown. It’s probably a good thing they don’t deliver. For other types of Mexican fare, I haven’t had any real strong winners so am still investigating.

Brunch

There are several options for a Sunday brunch in Budapest. Unfortunately, we didn’t get to try many of them. However, we did go to Hemingway Etterem on the Buda side, and it was a great experience. I was rather impressed with their offerings, and if you’re there during nice weather, the terrace is absolutely wonderful for eating.

They usually put up a small bouncy castle, and there is a playroom for kids, so it’s definitely a family-friendly place. Having said that, though, if you have finicky eaters, they probably won’t enjoy it as much. The buffet is much more gourmet, although they may have special offerings for smaller kids. Tigger no longer qualifies for the children’s menu.

Gelato

We had a few standout places for gelato. One is the chain Levendula. Their flavors are quite unique, and the flavor was amazing. It is very creamy and refreshing. We stopped in because we routinely saw long lines out of their shops. The lines move quickly, so don’t let that stop you.

Bar Pharma is an eatery and bar; however, during the summer they also offer spectacular gelato, some of which is alcohol infused. For the booze lovers, I recommend the Quincy which contains palinka (but tastes much better). Their nonalcoholic chocolate was dark chocolate and was delicious.

Another good stop is Pearl Icebar. Like the above, their gelato is handmade locally and often is made from that day’s fresh ingredients. They have some really unique flavors which make a visit worthwhile. If you’re low-carbing it, get their paleo lemonade. It was great! They can be hard to find on Google Maps by their name. Their address is Lónyay utca 3. They are very close to Central Market.

Coffee

So far the best coffee I’ve had in Budapest was at Blue Bird Roastery. They have a cafe in the touristy Gozsdu Udvar area, but I go to their roastery located at Rumbach Sebestyén u. 12. If you’re looking for a place to relax with their coffee, the roastery may not be your choice. It’s a bit . . . rough around the edges and doesn’t have a lot of space. However, if you go next door to Printa, you’ll have a better atmosphere and their coffee comes from the roastery. Note: The roastery is closed on Saturday and for Jewish holidays.

Unique

Last but not least, I’d like to recommend the Zoo Cafe. You don’t come here for the food, although they do serve some decent ice cream sundaes. Enjoy a Nutella latte while getting up close and personal with various critters like a chinchilla, chameleons, snakes, birds, cats, guinea pigs, etc.

There are a couple of cat cafes in the city, but this place was much better in my opinion.

Food time in Budapest is a happy time. You’ll find great cuisine made with fresh products at low prices. That’s a combination I love.

Have you been here? Do you have any Budapest restaurant or food recommendations?

So plan on visiting, and here are some things to consider when you’re wondering what to do in Budapest.

A few notes first

• The city is split into two large areas—Buda and Pest. They have very different personalities. We prefer to stay on the Pest (pronounced like pesht) side. It’s way more lively, and most of the best spots to visit and explore in Budapest are located here. The Buda side tends to be more quiet and feels less urban, and it definitely has some worthwhile places to visit. If you forget which side is which, just remember Buda is the side with hills, Pest is flat. There are multiple bridges between the two sides, and there is plenty of public transportation available. It’s still easy to explore Pest if you’re in Buda. My personal recommendation, however, is to stay somewhere between districts V and VIII (Pest).
• When getting on public transportation, make sure you have validated your ticket. Look for a small box (usually orange) at the stop, before escalators and often on the platforms for the metro, and on the trams, trolleys, and buses. They do have inspectors regularly, and if you get caught without a validated ticket, it’s a pricey fine. They don’t care that you’re a tourist.
• Most restaurants, nonstops, and markets will accept credit/debit cards, but it never hurts to make sure you have some forint (Hungarian currency, abbreviated as HUF) on hand.
• Almost everyone in Budapest speaks some English, so it’s really easy to get around, get directions, etc. Menus are usually bilingual.
• Consider getting the Budapest Card. Among other things, like free admission into one of the baths, it also gives you unlimited use of the city’s public transportation. We were given a 3-day card to use during our first stay in Budapest and it was very useful.

 Eat

I put this as the first activity for a variety of reasons, but probably the biggest reason is because my fondest food memories in Europe involved Budapest, and when I asked Tigger what were his favorite things to do there, his immediate response was: “Eat!”

I’m sure being a teenager had nothing to do with his answer.

Budapest has a wonderful emerging food scene, so you can find pretty much something of everything there, including really good pho. District VII has the biggest collection of places serving amazing food. On top of having excellent food, it’s also really inexpensive to eat out.

I love that combination! Especially since I have a teenager who is always hungry.

While meat is a very big part of the Hungarian diet, there are more and places offering full vegetarian and vegan menus (even some raw food places). We saw lots of places with gluten-free offerings as well and several shops dedicated to selling low-carb items.

There are some companies offering river dinner cruises if you want to do something romantic/special.

The Tasting Table also offers different types of wine tastings, some of which include Hungarian cuisine, while others are larger events accompanied by other fare. I attended one of their afternoon tastings with lunch, and I learned a lot about Hungarian wine, and discovered just how delicious it is. Most Hungarian wine is consumed within the country, so it’s hard to find it internationally.

Check out my Budapest restaurant post for food suggestions.

Walk

A lot. Budapest is incredibly walkable. We only took public transportation when we were feeling lazy or were going to the other side of the city. We stayed in District V and found it to be incredibly central for practically every place we wanted to go.

The other joy of walking in Budapest is the sheer beauty of the architecture and facades, the surprise fountains and memorials, plazas, and parks. I don’t think I’ve enjoyed taking so many purposeless walks as much as I have in this city. I hardly ever left the apartment without my camera, and when you walk you have to make sure to also look up so you don’t miss out on a beatiful view.

If you want more green for your meandering, head down to the wonderful City Park or to Margaret Island. The latter will make you forget you’re in a large city.

We also enjoyed walking along the Danube River. On this walk you’ll pass by the Shoes on the Danube Bank memorial in memory of the Jews who were lined up along the river’s edge and shot by the Arrow Cross soldiers during World War II. You can also experience the change in personality from each of the various districts and neighborhoods.

Explore the Jewish District

At one time, Budapest was home to quite possibly the largest Jewish populations in Europe (and it still is one of the largest). There is a lot of history and interesting architecture here.

If you’re interested in digging a little deeper, I’d recommend taking one of the tours offered by Taste Hungary. I took their tour that combined Jewish culture and cuisine, and it was a wonderful experience. There is also a free walking tour that explores the district (and they have other tours as well). I haven’t personally done this walking tour, but I’ve heard good things.

Make sure to check out the Orthodox Kazinczy Street Synagogue as well. There is an admission fee, but it’s small, and the interior of the synagogue is really something to see.

There are various memorials all over the district, including to some non-Jews who were responsible for saving thousands of Jewish lives during World War II. Some are very simple, perhaps just a plaque, while others are very ornate works of art.

This area is also known as District VII (awesome food).

Soak in the Baths/Water Park

Budapest is chock full of thermal spas, and these baths vary from the humble, old Turkish baths to the glamorous art nouveau surroundings. Going to the baths is a very local thing to do in Budapest.

My favorite one is Király.

During the summer, there is a really cool water park on Margaret Island with water slides, a wave pool, numerous pools, and thermal baths.

Attend a Festival

There are tons of festivals year round in Budapest. This online calendar is pretty helpful for doing some planning and figuring out what is going on.

Parks

I mentioned City Park for its greenery, but there are a lot of activities to do there. In winter, they have a ice skating rink in the lake, and in the summer you can often rent a small boat to take out. There are also museums, the immensely popular Széchenyi Baths, a zoo, botanical garden, circus, amusement park, etc. Like I said, check it out.

The Szabadság park is really interesting, too. It’s a great place to chill, but there are also some very cool buildings surrounding the park as well as some war memorials. There is an area with fountains that the kids can run through if they want to cool down or whatever. This is where some of the smaller festivals are held as well.

Erzsébet is another popular park. It’s also home to the Budapest Eye, a large Ferris wheel. Just be aware the wheel isn’t open year round, so you might want to check before making a special trip just for that. The square is a very popular hangout for locals, especially university students.

Another nice park on the Buda side is Millennium Park. It has a great play area, and a lot of Budapest’s larger festivals are held here.

Something Different/Quirky

As you might expect, a great city like Budapest is home to some unique sights and experiences. Here are some of the more interesting ones.

Memento Park

This is an open-air museum dedicated to Communist memorabilia. When Hungary was liberated from Russia, rather than destroying all the Communist statues, etc., they just moved them here. There are various exhibits and interesting activities, like being able to “call” and listen to recordings from various Communist leaders. We didn’t find out about the park until after we had left, so it’s on our plans for when we return to Budapest.

They offer their own transportation (book online for a package deal), or you can get there by city bus (routes 101 and 150).

Zoo and Cat Cafes

Budapest has a couple of cat cafés and one zoo café. If the idea of enjoying a nice beverage and/or pastry while being able to pet and play with cats appeals to you, head to the Cat Café at Révay u. 3 (near the basilica). I wouldn’t bother with the other one.

If you enjoy animals, definitely visit the Zoo Cafe located at Fejér György u. 3. While the service is very . . . shall we say Eastern European, you can interact with many different types of critters. We held chameleons, a python, cats, birds, a guinea pig, and we pet a chinchilla. The drinks are pretty good, too. I had a Nutella latte.

Ruin Pubs

Take a derelict building or an abandoned open space, thrown in a bunch of mismatched furnishings, perhaps hang some hammocks, and sell adult beverages and you have a ruin pub.

Okay, it may not seem quirky to go to one of these, but if you visit Szimpla Kert you’ll see why I classify this as a quirky activity. Even if you don’t drink, go check it out. They also host a farmer’s market on Sundays.

Szimpla is probably the most famous ruin pub, but there are many others, each with its own unique style and personality. They are quite popular with locals and tourists alike. And while it may seem like a place that would attract only young hipsters, you will even find retirees hanging around enjoying a nice, cheap, craft beer.

Cave Church

This church is built inside Gellért Hill, across from the well-known Gellért Baths. This cave was created by thermal springs and has a very interesting history. It has served as a church (and is still in use for this), hospital, and asylum. Definitely worth checking out. There aren’t too many of these in the world.

Underground Labyrinth

Beneath Castle Hill, on the Buda side of the city, is a 6-mile (only 1 mile is used for tours) complex of caves and cellars. It has been used for military purposes by the Turks in the 16th century and as a hospital during World War II. However, the infamous Dracula inspiration, Vlad Tepes, was held prisoner here during the 15th century.

There are various tours, including some designed just for children, of the cave system. They have a nighttime tour done by lantern which sounds really cool to me. This was another place I didn’t learn about until after we had left. You can bet it’s on my list!

Cool Sites

As far as I’m concerned, most of District VII falls under this category. However, in addition to the places already mentioned, here are some other places you might want to check out.

Buda Hill

Here you’ll find a castle, some beautiful plazas, St. Matthias Church, and the Fisherman’s Bastion. Walking around the latter is like passing through a fairy tale land. If you only have a short time in this amazing city, the Bastion should be on your must-see list.

In addition to the gorgeous buildings, you will have some absolutely stunning views of the Pest side, including the iconic parliament building.

St. Stephen’s Basilica

The basilica is named in honor of Hungary’s first king, and often you can view a mummified right hand which reportedly belongs to him (the reliquary isn’t always on display). It is considered to be the most important church in Hungary.

The interior of the church is absolutely gorgeous, and you can also walk along the cupola (open from April through October only). As this is the 2nd largest largest building in Budapest, you can get some wonderful views of the city from up there.

At different times of the year, they hold organ concerts inside the cathedral.

Admission to the cathedral is free; however, if you wish to visit the cupola, treasury, and/or do a tour, there is a nominal fee.

The Great Synagogue

This is a rather unique and impressive structure. It is the largest synagogue in Europe and the 2nd largest in the world. It can accommodate about 5000 people, just to give you an idea of its size. Adjoined to the building is the Hungarian Jewish Museum, and the site houses other museums and memorials.

As it is a functioning place of worship, make sure to check their schedule before planning a visit. It’s closed to tours every Saturday.

Admission is about $10 USD for adults/non-students.

There are also some organized tours that include the synagogue as well as some that also take you to other important sites in the Jewish district.

Parliament Building

If you’ve read anything about Budapest, you’ve no doubt seen a photo of this building. It is absolutely stunning, and the grounds offer some beautiful scenery as well as a nice place to relax, let the kids run around, etc.

If you take a guided tour inside the building, you will also be able to view St. Stephen’s crown, scepter, and orb.

It’s advised that you get your tickets online. At this link, you can find the various tours offered (sorted by language).

Have I given you enough information about what to do in Budapest? What else would you like to know?

While they are superb places to relax, in Budapest these thermal baths are taken seriously. There are clinics dedicated to balneological treatments connected with many of the spas. The styles and surroundings can differ greatly. Some have retained much of their earlier Turkish bath history while others are grand visions of art nouveau. Most of them operate year round, and you can find baths that are indoors and/or outdoors. Even the local water park, complete with waterslides and a wave pool, has a few thermal baths.

Their websites even include information as to the mineral contents of the water in the various pools at a spa and which conditions are best treated. At the more clinical ones, you can even include a rheumatological workup and examination as part of your visit.

Like I said, they take their thermal baths seriously.

Most, if not all, of the baths also offer spa services, and they’re relatively inexpensive so it’s pretty easy to pamper yourself during a visit.

You can also find some baths with salt rooms which are reportedly great for people with allergies and respiratory issues.

Useful info about Budapest baths

Terms

Strandfürdő means they have open-air pools and/or a beach.

Gyógyfürdő denotes a spa (thermal bath). You’ll often see this term followed by “és Uszoda” which means they also have a swimming pool.

Schedules

It’s always a good idea to double check a bath’s website before heading out. A few of the ones that are more popular with the locals have a gender-specific schedule, and a couple also have clothing-optional times. For the most part, though, the baths are coed and require appropriate swimwear.

Some are open only during specific days, and others may close during parts of the day for maintenance or to ensure space for clinic patients.

Children

Most of the baths state they will not allow children under 14 to use the thermal spas. However, this doesn’t seem to be enforced as I’ve seen much younger kids using the thermal pools. If you’re visiting with younger kids, you may want to go to Palatinus (see below) or some of the spas that are more multiuse, though.

The biggest concern they have is with young children in the hotter thermal baths. The cooler pools aren’t usually an issue.

Lockers, etc.

When looking at prices, you will note a column for a cabin. This is a private changing area that locks. These vary in size, but generally 2 people can stand in there at the same time. They’re kind of nice because you can leave bags, larger items, hang your clothes, etc.

Lockers are much smaller and are a bit cheaper than the cabins. Many of the locker areas are coed with changing rooms. So you won’t want to start stripping out of your clothes in front of the locker until you’ve confirmed you’re in a gender-specific room. I almost made this mistake at the first bath we went to. I took off my shirt and noticed some women walking around which gave me pause. Then I noticed people coming out of changing rooms and realized what was going on.

When you pay for admission, you get a waterproof wristband that functions with the electronic locks for the cabins and lockers, although some of the baths still use a lock and key. In these situations, there is an attendant. You give them your receipt, and they take you to a cabin. They’ll lock it when you’re done and reopen it for you when you return. You’ll usually get a small chip which identifies for them which cabin is yours.

What to bring

While many of the men will be wearing Speedos (oh, Europe!), you’ll also see plenty of men wearing longer trunks like board shorts. They aren’t overly picky, but don’t expect to be able to wear cut-offs.

Many visitors to Budapest baths, particularly women, wear a swim cap, but it usually isn’t required.

Obviously, you’ll want to bring a towel. It’s also a good idea to bring some type of sandals or flip-flops. We have gone barefoot, but almost everyone wears something on their feet when walking from the lockers to the pools, and we did have one bath staff person make a fuss when he spotted Tigger going barefoot down a hallway.

Many places offer towel rental if you don’t have one. The posted price includes a deposit, and you get the deposit back when you return the towel. You can also rent swimwear at most of the spas.

One of the baths we visited had water fountains that contained mineral water (as in full of minerals, not bubbly water) that was cool water. A couple had more traditional water fountains. Some had nothing. It’s acceptable to bring a non-glass water bottle with you to the baths, so feel free to bring something so you can keep hydrated.

A lot of the baths have a cafe or place selling refreshments, but they are usually located in the “dry areas” so bringing your own is recommended.

Recommended baths

Most of the Budapest baths are part of the spa system (my description); however, some aren’t. This website is a great reference for the main baths.

The two that are the most famous are Széchenyi and Gellért with the former being the main draw for tourists. The Széchenyi baths, the largest medicinal bath in Europe, are indeed gorgeous and are located in a fabulous, huge park. I avoided it, however, because of the massive crowds that tend to be present. When a spa has fast track tickets, it’s probably one I’m going to avoid. It’s also one of the more expensive spas.

Gellért is absolutely gorgeous; however, as I was looking for the ones that were more popular with locals, I didn’t make it there. They also have “naturist sundecks” and some fabulous views. You can also rent private baths for 2 people (which includes champagne, fruits, and sauna).

Another bath I didn’t get to is not well known at all—Veli Bej. It is another bath that is a mix of modern and medieval and recently underwent quite the impressive renovation.

Király

This one is probably my favorite. Its construction began in 1565. It’s a great mix of old and modern. I like going here during daylight hours because the dome above the main pool allows streams of natural light to come through which just adds to the ambiance.

It’s also one of the cheapest ones to visit.

Note: Don’t come here during peak times, especially on the weekends, unless you bring ear plugs. The natural acoustics in the main pool area mean voices carry. When you have a bunch of people yapping away, it can get really loud. My first visit was during a weekend evening in the summer, and it was packed with British university students who didn’t get the hint to lower their voice from the many dirty looks.

Lukács

This bath gets mostly locals and is connected to a large clinic, although there are a few more tourists because admission is included with the Budapest card. However, it is one of the local favorites.

They have some really nice pools, but it’s a bit more confusing to navigate due to its large size and extreme lack of non-Hungarian signage.

There are also outdoor lap pools, but the water is not heated and is usually at around a nice chilling 23C/73F degrees. It feels much colder, though. We stuck a foot in the water and quickly headed indoors for the thermal pools instead.

Rudas

Night bathing is one of the popular things to do in this medieval Turkish bath. Most of the Budapest baths close at around 8-10 PM, but on Friday and Saturday nights this particular bath is open from 10 PM to 4 AM.

Mixed gender use of the steam bath is only allowed on the weekends, so this is one where you’ll want to double check the schedule. Currently, the steam bath is reserved for women on Tuesdays. Saturday and Sunday are mixed, as is the night bathing.

The swimming pool and wellness section, however, is coed.

Dandár

This thermal bath has a much more modern setting and is also quite inexpensive.

Palatinus

This is a fun water park located on Margaret Island, which is located in the Danube River and is very accessible from both sides of the city. You can walk, bike, or take public transportation easily.

Admission is extremely reasonable, and they have special discounts for families (including single-parent families!).

There are lots of slides, a wave pool, a large kiddie pool play area, lap pool, thermal baths, and more. You can bring drinks and food, but you can also find very reasonably priced (they don’t mark-up their stuff) items.

There are areas with lounge chairs, but there is also plenty of grass where you can put down a blanket and stretch out.

Unfortunately, they are only open during the summer (late June until early September).

Outdoor Baths

Many of the above baths offer outdoor pools, but I found this website to be a great resource, especially since it lists places that most visitors wouldn’t know about. They also list some family-friendly spas.

As the baths are a part of the local culture, one should definitely visit at least one of the baths to get a taste of local life.

Have you been to any of the Budapest baths? Which was/is your favorite?

Exploring the city’s Jewish history was one of my big interests for coming here. My maternal ancestry is composed of Hungarian Romani Jews (yes, quite the combination). Walking through the city’s Jewish quarter gives me a sense of connection I don’t often feel with my Jewish roots. Jewish food also brings back rare positive memories of childhood, and there aren’t a lot of places offering an abundance of those choices.

While reviewing available food tours, I came across Taste Hungary’s Jewish culture and cuisine tour, and I was very excited about it. They offered to host me (Tigger wasn’t interested) for this tour, and I really looked forward to it.

The tour begins next to the 2nd largest synagogue in the world (and it holds the #1 spot for Europe)—Dohány Street Synagogue, also aptly known as The Great Synagogue. This tour doesn’t enter the building, but you do learn quite a lot about the building, the area, and its history.

I had been in this area a few times and never knew that the curve in the road represents the edge of the old wall that protected the city in its medieval days. Like most European cities, Jews weren’t allowed to live within the walls, so their community built up on the edge.

We also visited the Rumbach Synagogue which is no longer in use. It has a very unique interior, and our guide Gyorgy was able to verbally rebuild it for us. It was quite fascinating to learn about its history and the potential plans for its future.

Toward the end of the tour, we also stopped at the Kazinczy Orthodox synagogue. The outside is understated enough that when you enter your eyes go wide in surprise. It is more colorful than most synagogues I’ve visited. It was built in the early 1900s and its interior is an absolute work of beauty and was hand painted.

Carl Lutz Memorial

The Jewish district (also known as District VII) is filled with memorials.  One in particular has a very unique appearance and pays homage to a man who definitely meets the definition of hero—Carl Lutz.

Mr. Lutz was a chancellor for the Swiss consulate in Hungary during World War II. He used his authority to purchase places for safe houses and declared them as annexes of the Swiss legislation, thereby giving them protection from the Nazi & Hungarian forces.

He arranged for papers for many Jewish families so they could escape Hungary. His actions are credited with having saved over 62,000 Jews, about half of the Jewish population.

When forces were shooting Jews at the banks of the Danube, he jumped into the river to save a woman who had been injured but was still alive. As he pulled her from the water, he declared she was protected by Switzerland, placed her in his car and escaped.

Murals

Not all art found within the district is restricted to Jewish history. There are also some really interesting murals.

Food

Food is a big part of a culture and that definitely holds true for the Jewish culture. The practice of Judaism has many flavors, and those get translated into unique ways at eateries.

The walking tour discusses various historical spots and ties it into the modern day. Naturally, you can’t do this without adding in some eating. You won’t finish this tour hungry, trust me.

If you’re new to Jewish culture and food, this will be a great introduction for you. We had everything from matzo ball soup ( a Jewish food staple), dumplings sprinkled with poppyseed and powdered sugar, to csirke paprikas (paprika chicken), roast goose, and Flódni.

What is Flódni you ask? Well, it’s a traditional Hungarian Jewish cake containing layers of poppyseed, plum jam, apples, and walnuts. Someone commented on my Instagram account that it basically sounded like “sugar lasagna.” Not a wholly inappropriate label.

One of my favorite stops was a restaurant I wouldn’t have known about otherwise. It’s a small operation but extremely popular with locals. This place has been in operation since the 1950s, and its most junior staff has been working there for 18 years. Our server has been there for 30!

It doesn’t look like much from the outside (you probably wouldn’t even realize it’s a restaurant) but inside it boasts a family diner atmosphere and the food was incredibly delicious. When you come to Budapest, make sure to stop at Kádár Étkezde for a delightful meal. Just be aware that they usually close for most of July and at least part of August for vacation.

The tour ends at the Tasting Table shop where you can sample some great Hungarian wines and pálinka (a type of fruit brandy). The latter is a bit of an acquired taste. Just don’t try to drink it too fast and don’t underestimate its strength.

As I rode the tram back home, I reflected on how connected I felt with my roots. Experiencing the history of the Jewish district and eating some of the foods that transported me back to my grandmother’s kitchen table, as well as experiencing some new culinary treats, easily put a smile on my face and made me love Budapest even more.

I definitely recommend this tour to anyone visiting Budapest, even if you don’t have a connection with Jewish culture and/or cuisine. For me it was one of the highlights of our time here, and it gives one a very interesting glimpse into the history of this exquisite city.

Have you experienced Jewish cuisine before? What is your favorite dish?

Budapest does have 2 cat cafes (the one by St. Stephen’s Basilica is better than the other one), but why stop at just kitties? Why not visit a cafe where you can also interact with birds, reptiles, rabbits, guinea pigs, and others?

And cats, too.

After reading about this cafe in a Budapest tourism site, we just had to visit, and I’m so glad we did. Another traveling family met up with us there, and it ended up being a lot of fun.

Tigger even gave it a very rare 10/10!

The cafe is located in a very unassuming location, as in you wouldn’t know it was there unless you specifically went looking for it, near the big Central Market Hall and the Kalvin ter. metro station on the Pest side of town.

While service isn’t all that good or friendly, they do make sure you get plenty of time holding the various animals. Just let them know which one you’d like to hold, and they’ll make sure to get your chance.

As far as food and beverages go, they have a small food menu, the usual coffee culprits (although you will find some fancier stuff like a Nutella latte), and ice cream sundaes. The menu is in Hungarian, but the staff speak English.

There is also hand sanitizer located on each table, which is especially important to use after handling the reptiles.

We counted at least four different cats, some of which were quite shameless such as this one who hopped onto a chair and patiently waited for the small human to share her ice cream.

I think we had the most fun holding the chameleons, though. Especially the young one who was much more active than the older reptile. They just aren’t a critter you usually get to interact with. It was interesting to feel its grip on your fingers, watch its eyes move around, and to feel its soft scaly skin.

Tigger also tried out a new fashion statement.

We also had some time with a rabbit and guinea pig.

The guinea pig had a great sense of humor and was totally unfazed by my comments about its relatives in South America tasting quite nice.

We spent at least a couple of hours there, and it’s definitely a place we’ll come back and visit.

The Budapest Zoo Cafe is located in district V at Fejér György utca 3. They are open 7 days a week from 10 AM until 10 PM.  Click to see it on Google Maps.

Incidentally, we spent some time playing with animals before we were asked if we wanted to order anything. Not hassling visitors is always a plus to me.

Have you been to a similar cafe? Where?

Then there are situations, like our relatively short time in Budapest, where we arrive in a place and are so blown away it changes everything.

Prague was one of these places. We went for a week and stayed for 2 months. We would’ve stayed longer, but we had a housesitting commitment and were also running out of Schengen time.

I had heard good things about Budapest, but I honestly didn’t expect much. Research and anecdotal information had suggested it had possibilities as a long-term base. Czech had a lot of promise, too, and, well, how could it possibly compete against Prague for my affection? Since we were in Serbia, we figured we might as well come to Budapest for a week or so to check it out.

Within 2 hours of arriving in the Pearl of the Danube, I was in love. Tigger wasn’t as immediately enraptured as me, but he was at least instantly fond of it. I felt at home right away.

After 2 days, I was even more in love, and we quickly extended our stay for just over a month. If I didn’t have birthday plans in Paris, we would be spending more time here in Budapest and starting the residency permit process.

We’ve decided that when our housesits are finished at the end of the year, we’re returning to Budapest to make it our long-term base. Hopefully, Immigration will agree.  Here are just some of the reasons why this is our plan.

Unless it changes.

Beauty

One thing I really missed while in Bucharest was being surrounded by gorgeous architecture. Part of what I love about Europe is the presence of so many old, beautiful buildings. Budapest is one of the most beautiful cities I’ve ever visited.

And that’s a lot of cities.

Budapest used to be 2 different cities with the Danube separating them. Buda was part of the Roman empire, and Pest was considered to be part of Asia at the time. They are definitely very diverse in their makeup even today. We live on the Pest side of the river, and I find it difficult to walk too fast because I’m constantly looking up at all the buildings to see how they’re adorned, their colors, etc.

Buda has a much different personality but still has a lot of beauty.

Vibe

Even Tigger has commented on Budapest’s welcoming vibe. It has a great feel to it. There is a nice cafe culture here and plenty of outdoor eating during the nicer weather. The parks are full of people relaxing on benches or sitting next to the fountains enjoying the beautiful spring weather as children play and dogs frolic in their own adjacent park.

This city just has a special feel to it.

And the people have also been extremely friendly and helpful.

Food

The food has been wonderful here. We have great access to many different types of ethnic cuisine, which is something I absolutely love. Hungarian food is also quite tasty, so it’s easy to enjoy the local cuisine as well.

Tigger is very happy that some of his favorites are easily accessed here. If they had a Carl’s Jr. and/or Taco Bell, I’m not sure I could get him to leave the city.

Transportation

They have a robust public transportation system here including buses, trams, trolleys, metro, boats, and a suburban rail system. Like Prague, it is quite walkable, though. There are many options for tickets, but a single ticket bought in advance (e.g., not on the bus) is about $1.25 USD. There are discounts for buying multiple tickets, which you validate immediately prior to use, if you’re only taking a short trip on the metro (3 stops or less), and for other situations and categories. Passes are very economical and easy to obtain if you’re a more heavy user.

Cycling is also very popular, and there are cycling lanes and pathways throughout much of the city. There is a bike rental system which is quite handy. I love living somewhere that is more biking friendly.

Ease of Communication

Hungarian is a tough language for native English speakers. There are 44 letters in the alphabet. Doesn’t sound too painful, right? Well, one letter is Dzs. Yeah.

Thankfully, most Hungarians speak at least a little English. We’ve run into so many English speakers, that I don’t really bother asking people if they speak English anymore. As you practice with it, it’s a bit easier to recognize terms and even pick up some similarities to English.

Of course, that’s just with reading. Some words I can pronounce quite easily, and others I know for a fact I am absolutely butchering. After a week, I’m still struggling saying to say “thank you” (köszönöm) without it sounding like I’ve had a stroke, but I can ask “English?” like a pro.

Romania is definitely easier in that department. But Hungarians have been really patient with my attempts.

 Activities

There is a lot to do in Budapest, including lots of activities aimed at families. I’ll be posting about some of those later on, but I’ve been really happy to see all the various activities, events, and places for kids and families.

Tigger is thrilled that there is a thermal bath with a large waterpark within a 20-minute bus ride from our apartment.

There are some absolutely amazing parks and places to escape into nature around here as well. Some of the parks were the first things to woo us.

Affordability

Prices are very similar to Czech and Romania. I don’t know why, but I figured it would be more expensive. Needless to say, I’m quite happy that isn’t the case.

***

The more time in Budapest, the more I fall in love. It’s even kicked Paris out of its #1 tier for me. We still have a few weeks left, though, and I’m going to soak up as much as I can and eagerly await our return.

Have you been to Budapest? What was your favorite sight?