The island archipelago of Cape Verde is one of the world’s best kept secrets in its own right. The ten sumptuous islands dotted along the 500-kilometre coast of Senegal are blessed with sultry beaches and sparkling crystal waters.

A former Portuguese colony, the blend of European and African heritage make the Cape Verde islands a magical place to explore, and the laid back locals always offer a warm welcome. But one of the best things about a holiday in Cape Verde are the hidden gems you find tucked away in this serene corner of the globe—and if you’re looking to plan a trip yourself, check out the travel guides over at Holiday Hypermarket, World Travel Guide, and Lonely Planet. CapeVerde.com also has a great travel guide recommendations for anyone looking to go.

Morro Beach, Maio

Cape Verde is a beach lover’s heaven, but if the bustling crowds on Kite Beach in Sal are too much for you, escape to the secluded island of Maio. This sleepy island just south of Boa Vista has dozens of secluded beaches, among them the coconut palm groves of Morro. During the summer, the long, wide stretch of creamy sands attracts turtles to nurture their eggs.

CapeFruit, Sal

The majority of visitors arriving in Cape Verde will land in Sal – the gateway to the island archipelago. Sal is geared towards tourism and has plenty of bars and restaurants to choose from, but for something different and refreshing, head to CapeFruit. It is off the beaten track, but well worth the detour. A favourite with locals due to the varied menu and sumptuous cuisine, the colourful, open-air restaurant has a great atmosphere, friendly staff and fresh fruit punches that are to die for!

Kindergarden project, Santo Antao

When you visit the Cape Verde islands, you will notice social and economic indifferences. The country is still very much in development, but a series of schemes like the Kindergarten project in Santo Antao make a real difference. Visitors are encouraged to get involved by spending time on-site and mingling with the locals. And the kindergarten is one of the most rewarding and special experiences you will have on any holiday anywhere.

Desert Viana, Boa Vista

Boa Vista is Portuguese for “beautiful view” and the island has not been named by chance. The white-sanded Estoril dunes offer a unique landscape and with only a handful of villages here, the beaches are not overcrowded. Desert Viana can look quite barren at times, but subsequently makes it perfect for quad biking, sand skiing and island exploring in a jeep. Also look out for the Spanish shipwreck on Santa Maria beach.

Chez Pastis, Santa Maria

Santa Maria is another of the most popular islands in Cape Verde, but as a consequence you find a lot of overpriced restaurants with low quality food. You will avoid disappointment, however, if you head for Chez Pastis just off the main drag. The roof is made for knotted tree branches and with a relaxing ambience and a warm greeting, you are made to feel very much at home. The cuisine is French, and you should book in advance – need we say more?

Cape Verde has all the ingredients for a magical holiday, but it is the hidden secrets you find that make your holiday extra special.

Image credit: Beatrice Tiberi

—A collaborative project

Whilst South Africa offers a wide range of extreme activities that get you up close and personal with South African’s wild inhabitants, it’s good to know which ones are child friendly. Cage diving with sharks perhaps isn’t at the top of every parent’s priority list.

From the endless opportunities South Africa offers, these are 6 favourites. These pack in all of the fun and adventure without the side dish of danger.

Safari on the Garden Route

No trip to South Africa is complete without an original safari trek, and there is no better time or place to spot the “big five” then along the Garden Route. The big five include: lions, elephants, buffalo, leopards and rhinos.

At the Garden Route Game Lodge, you can book you and your little ones onto an action-packed family safari. Opt for a private gamer viewer or jump in with other families and give the kids a chance to make new friends. Besides the game drive other activities such as the guided bush walk, insect hunts, and fishing at the watering hole give you and your family a chance to come face to face with South Africa’s wildebeest.

A River Cruise or Kayak with Crocodiles

At 85km long the St. Lucia Estuary is one of the longest in South Africa. Home to hundreds of hippos, thousands of crocs, and a healthy dose of bull sharks to boot, a river cruise tour offers plenty of opportunity to see these magnificent creatures in their natural habitat. Tucked away safely on your large boat you can admire these animals safe in the knowledge that you won’t be on their lunch menu.

However, for those who are looking for a thrill, and are aged over 12, a St Lucia Kayak Safari allows you to take to the water for a more personal experience. With your heart in your mouth and your hands gripping the paddle tightly, kayakers can float alongside sunbathing crocodiles and get a good look deep into the deadly jaws of a yawning hippopotamus!

Horse Safari

Back on land and it’s time to feel at one with nature while sat atop a horse. The Bhangazi Horse Safaris welcome any riders over the age of 6; no experience required.

As you ride through the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, various types of animals and wildebeest run alongside and all around you. This isn’t just an experience that brings you within touching distance of African wildlife but makes you a part of it!

Canopy Tour

Canopy tours are one of the most exhilarating ways to explore a new or exotic landscape and in South Africa this is no different. Take your pick of zip lining adventures all over the country from Tsitsikamma in the south to Magoebaskloof in the north.

Canopy Tours South Africa recommend that kids should be aged 7 or over to enjoy the Canopy Experience. However, they do accept children as young as 4.

Launch from platform to platform high up in trees, whizzing along zip wires! You will be escorted throughout your tour by a lead guide and a safety guide at all times. They will make sure that all your gear is fastened safely and give you an interesting history on the area. Remember to pack your camera to get great snaps of the views and wildlife too!

Cango Caves

The Cango Caves are not only one of the oldest tourist attractions in South Africa but also one of the best cave systems in the world. Choose from a heritage or adventure tour for your Cango experience.

Kids must be at least 6 years old to take part in the tours but their attention and imagination will captured immediately upon entering the first chamber. Natural phenomena such as stalactites, peculiar rock formations, towers stacks and bridges all combine to make the series of caves a breathtaking spectacle.

If you are feeling up to it, the Adventure tour takes you through a slightly more hair-raising route. Squeeze in and out of tunnels and shimmy through narrow passes.

Visit an Ostrich Farm!

Last but by no means least, is a trip to the Cango Ostrich Farm. This is a great place to take kids to learn and have plenty of fun whilst do so. A guided tour of the farm provides plenty of information and interesting facts about the birds.

Kids will delight in petting and feeding the animals as well as testing out the farm’s nifty science trick—did you know you can stand on an ostrich egg without it breaking?

It certainly seems to us that adventure is suitable for all ages in South Africa! Whether you’re 7 or 70, there’s all kinds of outdoor activities that transport you right to the heart of the home of safari.

—Written by Jessica Langlands

However, you’re probably wondering, what’s so special about Tunisia?

No matter which place you choose to visit in Tunisia: the famous Hammamet, Sousse or Monastir, you’ll be amazed by the standard of your accommodation and the friendliness of the staff. Once you settle in your room you can hang out at the pool or walk to a beautiful beach and meet some local camels hanging out. I would definitely recommend parachuting and jet-skiing, both of which are available at almost every beach in Tunisia. The wealth of marine life, particularly in Hammamet area, makes Tunisian beaches particularly popular among scuba divers.

Tunisia offers a wide range of dishes which are heavily influenced by Arabic, Mediterranean and French cuisines. Similar Moroccan cuisine, Tunisian meals are rich in spices such as coriander, cumin, saffron and harissa. Slow-cooked meats and couscous with eggs are commonly found in Tunisian dishes. Purchasing alcohol is not difficult as it is in most Muslim countries, but be careful—Tunisian alcohol is most likely far behind your favorite specialty.

The country offers plenty of historical sites such as Tunis and Sma. However, to my surprise, this ancient city turned out to be a tourist trap full of souvenir shops and kids trying to sell you anything they can. I would rather recommend spending more time at the small village of El Djem, located 20 minutes away from Sousse, to see the impressive ruins of the largest Roman amphitheater in Africa. It’s a fantastic opportunity for those interested in seeing ancient Roman ruins without the tourists.

When in Tunisia, one cannot miss an excursion to the Sahara, which in my opinion is the best trip in Northern Africa. There are a variety of places where individuals can purchase a tour or take day trips to the side of Sahara. The first stop is usually Tozeur, Sahara’s gateway, where you quickly end up on a donkey and are taken to a spectacular oasis. There is always a local guy climbing a palm within 30 seconds, some young kids jumping from the cliff, and others trying to sell you tea in any language you want to hear. If you’re really determined, you can spot the Algerian border from the top of a rock you can reach by sneaking through the tunnels.

The Tunisian part of the Sahara features Matmata, a local village where Star Wars was filmed. You can get there via desert jeeps that drop you off at the site and pick you up 15 minutes later to drive you through part of the Paris-Dakar rally race course. If you’re scared of roller coasters then you should probably skip this activity, because it includes plenty of jumping on the dunes. After the drive, you’ll visit Ong Jemal, the neck of the camel rock where you are greeted by real camels which you ride to the scenic part of Sahara.

Most travelers are more than satisfied with a sunset ride on a camel and they pass out in the tent. However, if they get ready to wake up at 3:30 am, they are treated to the best sunrise that one can watch from the desert. Even though it’s quite crowded it’s still worth seeing. Tunisia is a special place.

Anna Lysakowska is a blogger at Anna Everywhere and editor at Flipit. She has visited more than 45 countries and lived in 7 cities, including Mexico City, Boston, London, Cape Town, Florence and Amsterdam. She studied journalism at Harvard, international law at Oxford Brookes, and obtained her Masters in Latin American Studies from Leiden University. Since 2013, she has been residing in the Netherlands where she works at a marketing company, but this doesn’t stop her from traveling.

Often, however, the smaller, more rural areas of Morocco are ignored by tourists, and that is a big mistake. With so many cheap flights coming into Agadir, there’s really no excuse to miss out on some of the absolutely wonderful smaller cities within Morocco.

Agadir

This larger city won’t win any architectural awards. In the 1960s, Agadir was hit by a massive earthquake which destroyed much of the city. Agadir was rebuilt, but the buildings lack the beauty and North African vibe of other cities within this north African country.

However, having an international airport and a cruise ship port, and obviously lots of beaches, does give Agadir some bonus points.

If your only reason for coming to Morocco is to escape the dreary UK/European winter, then you’ll find lots of all-inclusive resorts to help you out. And, in fact, many Brits and Germans come to Agadir for just this reason. Because of this, you’ll find lots of people who speak English which can make things easier on you if you don’t speak French.

Essaouira

One of my favorite cities in Morocco is just a few hours away from Agadir. This is a great beach town with a very interesting medina. The touts aren’t nearly as aggressive as in cities like Fes and Marrakech.

If you like seafood, it’s sold fresh down by the marina daily. How fresh? It was plucked from the sea that day.

There are some great local places outside the medina. If you want a unique experience, go by the Sufi mosque on Friday afternoons. The chanting is mesmerizing and goes on for hours.

There are lots of short-term rentals if you’re interested in having an affordable beach getaway.

Be aware that taxis are not allowed to drive in the medina. If you want help with your luggage in the medina, you’ll find plenty of enterprising young gentlemen willing to carry your stuff in their carts for a small fee. Just make sure to agree on a price before you head on your way.

You can rent lounge chairs for a few dollars a day on the beach.

Be prepared to see a lot of cats, especially kittens, as you walk around. Many of the restaurants within the medina have a complement of a few mother cats with litters. They add some extra entertainment to the meal experience.

Guelmim

If you want to experience the rural life of Morocco, which I highly recommend, this is the town for you. There are several markets selling fresh produce, and the butchers all have great meats (including camel, which is quite tasty).

On Saturdays you’ll be able to visit the big market, also known as the camel market. The Berbers that bring their camels to sell also have some beautiful jewelry and antiques you may want to bring home. Be prepared to haggle. It’s part of their culture, and they really appreciate a good haggle.

The camel market is also a great place to pick up household furnishings, clothes, and food.

In town, you will find several places for breakfast. Make sure to order kulshi (cool-she) which means basically “everything.” You’ll be served Moroccan mint tea, bread, argan oil (which tastes almost like almond butter), and some delicious eggs, all of which is eaten with the right hand (you can hold food with your left hand, but it shouldn’t be brought to your mouth).

When going around town, you’ll probably notice that food tends to be consolidated. For instance, one section of the road will be fish places while another will all be selling rotisserie chicken.

Guelmim is the gateway to the Sahara desert, and it’s easy to find guides who will take you camping in the desert, which is a fun experience. If you want a real treat, arrange a stay at one of the eco lodges on the nearby oasis Tighmert. We lived there for 2 months, and it’s an experience that is worth the effort.

Morocco is a place that can easily steal your heart. The people are absolutely lovely, and it’s generally a safe place to visit. While French is the dominant language for tourists, it’s still easy to get along with English (and sometimes Spanish). It’s an experience you aren’t likely to forget easily.

Have you been to Morocco? What was your favorite area?

While other areas of Morocco are amazing and definitely unique experiences, I loved Guelmim the most because it was extremely authentic. It isn’t made for tourists, and it hasn’t really bought into all of its touristic possibilities. It’s just everyday Morocco.

It was here that I fell in love with Morocco and its people, where I had my first taste of camel, and where I also learned about the different colors of camels and their purposes. White camels are considered holy, and every group of camels will always have at least one white camel in it because they can apparently smell water from over 30 km away.  Brown camels are used for work, and the “black” ones (dark brown) are used for their meat.

Guelmim is the last good-sized town before you enter the Sahara desert, so it’s a good place for starting Sahara treks. Because they haven’t bought the tourism bullet, there really isn’t a lot to do here, though. You don’t come to Guelmim to be mesmerized by snake charmers, for its fabulous shopping, and definitely not for the cuisine.

You come to Guelmim to see what real rural Moroccan life is like, to slow down, and to absorb it all.

Getting to Guelmim is fairly straight forward. Buses and petit taxis leave regularly from Agadir, although if you go to the suburb town of Inezgane you’ll find transportation that runs more frequently. There are plenty of companies, but I had the best experience with Supratours (which leaves from the main bus terminal in Agadir). It’s about a 4-hour journey, which includes a 30-minute rest stop for food and bathroom use. Yep, no bathrooms on the bus.

There are several hotels in Guelmim, and they are all pretty much similar in services, quality, etc. We didn’t stay in any of the super low-budget ones, so I can’t really comment about any of those.

To get around the town you can flag down any red petit taxi or the white and blue pick-up truck taxis. They all charge 6 MAD to go anywhere in town. However, on Saturday is the camel souk, and the price will double for you to go there, which brings the price to less than $1.50 USD so. . .

If you want to check out the oasis, you’ll need to take either the grand taxi (5 MAD) that leaves from the Ali Baba souk, or catch a shared taxi (7 MAD). If you want to take the latter, just ask a taxi driver to take you to the petit taxi for Tighmert (usually pronounced teeg-mart). The red taxis and pickups can’t take you to the oasis..

For the return trip, just stand on the side of the road and flag down any grand or petit taxi that comes by. Some personal vehicles will also stop and offer you a ride for free. It may sound a bit scary, but it’s pretty safe.

The camel souk is kind of interesting. Some of the camel sellers come from near Mauritania to sell here. Often you’ll find an English speaker who will give you lots of information and insights on the culture, as well as try to sell you souvenirs and jewelry. He isn’t a major hard sell, though. I think the whole livestock area was the most interesting part of the souk. The rest of it was really just a bigger version of the in-town souk.

If you aren’t feeling too adventurous with restaurants, check out Cafe Plage Blanche next to the 1st gas station in town. They have a huge sign, so it’s hard to miss. They have pretty decent food and a bit more variety than most of the food places in town.

There are tons of ATMs all over town.

For groceries, I would recommend the supermarket next to the bank across from the other gas station in town. Just look for the symbol of a big shopping cart. There is another one across the street by the post office (Supermarché Rajan), but this one has better quality and a bit more selection.

You won’t find produce in the supermarkets, though. You’ll find that from either a street vendor or in the nearby souk. If you’re taking a taxi on a Saturday and don’t want the big souk, just tell them the Ali Baba souk. That’s the smaller, everyday one.

You won’t find many English speakers in Guelmim. A few more speak Spanish. Most people will speak French, although you’ll run into some who only speak Moroccan Arabic and Berber. Still, it’s pretty easy to function, get around, and to purchase things. At the hotels, they’ll all speak French, and a few will speak a little English.

By the post office are the restaurants that mostly serve fish. If you head away from the town entrance, past the roundabout, you’ll find the restaurants serving roasted chicken.

Guelmim is really a place you visit purely for the authentic cultural experience, so don’t expect a lot in the way of entertainment and tourist sights. Guelmim isn’t trying to impress anyone. Which is what I loved about it.

Money

The local currency is called the dirham.  Within Morocco it is abbreviated as dh or Dh; however, the currency exchange code is MAD.  Because the euro is at a nice 1:10 conversion with the dirham (50 dh = 5 euros), it is widely accepted. There are plenty of ATMs, and most don’t charge a fee (although your bank may charge you), even in small cities.  Almost all of the ATMs will ask you to remove your card before it dispenses your money, which helps prevent you from accidentally leaving your card behind.  In addition, almost every single ATM we used had an option for English instructions, so if you don’t speak French it isn’t a big deal.

Language

The official languages are Moroccan Arabic and Berber; however, most Moroccans also speak French, and all official documents (for tourism purposes) are in both Arabic and French.  In the far north of the country, and in a few areas of the south, many people will also speak Spanish. In the larger cities, it’s easier to find people who speak English, but you’ll have a much more enjoyable time if you learn at least some basics in French.

Communication and Internet

SIM cards are extremely cheap (20 MAD) and so are buying minutes.

For making international calls, you want to buy a telecarte. You can make calls for super cheap at any pay phone or orange public phone using this card. I believe they also work via landlines (but not cell phones I’m told).

WiFi is not very common outside of big cities, and even then it can be touch. For between 200 and 250 MAD, you can buy a USB 3G modem at any phone shop or Maroc Telecom office (I wouldn’t bother with the other companies, go with this one for Internet and cell phone). It usually comes with 1 month’s service included in the price. After that it’s 50 MAD a week for unlimited 3G service. You can buy as much time as you want at one time. Make sure to request recharge express to buy more Internet time. You’ll need the phone number of the SIM in order to recharge the service.  The phone number is located on the plastic card that came with the modem, so make sure you save that. If you’ve lost it, you have to go into a Maroc Telecom office to retrieve the card’s phone number.

Travel

Getting around Morocco is quite easy.  In the northern region, there is a train system that is fairly decent.  To go south, there are many different bus companies. Supratours and CTM are the largest, and Supratours is owned by the rail company so it is an easy way to schedule travel.  We’ve traveled with 3 different bus companies.  I’d have to say Supratours is my favorite of the three.  None of them, however, have bathrooms on board.  So keep that in mind when planning bus travel.

You can also travel by air within Morocco, but it’s quite expensive (one way for one person from Tangier to Agadir was significantly more expensive than our one-way ticket from Agadir to France for two people).

For shorter distances (3-4 hours), there are also often shared taxis.  By using these you will get to your destination faster, but you will sacrifice comfort.  From Guelmim to Agadir, the shared taxi is 70 MAD per person ($8.34 USD). However, there will be 4 people in the back seat and 2 (plus the driver) in the front seat.  If you are bigger than child-sized, it may be an uncomfortable ride. You can solve this by paying for more spaces.  However, a bus ride with one of the smaller companies is only 50 MAD.  The only other advantage the shared taxis have over buses is that they go throughout the day (as soon as they have 6 spots paid for) whereas the bus may only have 2-3 scheduled trips.

Taxis within cities usually have set fares, and no one uses a meter.  Make sure to check with a local to find out what the taxi should charge you.  In Guelmim, petit taxis are 6 MAD for anywhere in town (though the fare doubles on Saturday for the camel souk), but in Agadir the average fare is around 20 MAD for most distances, but more expensive from the tourist zone and for travel to/from the big bus station and airport.

Generally speaking, red petit taxis are cheaper than beige ones for at least 4 of the cities we’ve been to in Morocco.

Always carry toilet paper with you. Most bathrooms, including in restaurants, do not supply toilet paper.

Food

Prepare to be underwhelmed. Apparently, Moroccans use more spices at home than in restaurants, so the food you’ll be eating will generally be fairly bland and not very diverse.  It is a challenge to find any type of ethnic food outside of the large cities such as Tangier.

Morocco is a Muslim nation, so pork is tough to find.  Tourist restaurants will be more likely to have ham.  We found bacon only in 1 grocery store (and never in any restaurant or hotel).  Likewise, only tourist restaurants will serve alcohol, and liquor stores can be tough to find.

It is not uncommon to eat with your hands.  Just try not to bring your left hand to your mouth.  It isn’t a major deal, since you’re a foreigner, though.  Usually the left hand only holds bread.  When eating something like eggs, you take a piece of bread and use that to scoop up your eggs.

In the tourist restaurants, when you ask for tea it will already have sugar added. However, in more local eateries you will probably be given chunks of sugar with 2 glasses.  Add the sugar to the pot.  Then pour tea into the glass, and pour that back into the pot.  Repeat this process several times to mix the sugar (and mint if was added later).  Locals hold the pot high when pouring to add air into the brew which enhances the flavor.  If you aren’t feeling brave, don’t worry about “playing local” when pouring your tea.  It is fun, though, once you get the hang of it.

Culture

Moroccans are extremely friendly and hospitable. They are some of the nicest people I’ve ever met.  They have no concept of personal space, so buses can be quite crowded as you all squish in.  When speaking with you, they will often touch your shoulder or arm.

They are rarely ever in a rush and will sit contentedly for hours without asking why the bus hasn’t left or arrived.  Their impatience mostly only shows up when they drive, and they love honking that horn!

Clothes tend to be quite modest. Many women choose to cover themselves completely except for their face.  Women traveling in Morocco should dress modestly.  The general attitude toward women is quite respectful; however, I have heard from several seasoned female travelers that Fes was absolutely horrible when it comes to derogatory speech, disrespect, and downright sexual harassment (including groping).

Women generally prefer to sit only with other women, but it doesn’t break a cultural moré if a man sits next to a woman.  Generally, the gender-mixing taboos don’t exist for children.  Often on a crowded bus, a woman would pull Tigger onto her lap so he didn’t have to stand, for instance.

The call to prayer is sung several times a day, beginning at around 5:45 AM.  When selecting lodging, you may want to visually check for the closest minaret, unless you’re an early morning person.  In Essaouira, we were next to a mosque, and it was incredibly loud during the call.

Touts are ubiquitous in the larger cities. They can be quite. . . persistent.  Usually responding with la shukran will stop them from bugging you, although women will probably be hassled more.  If that doesn’t stop them, just ignore them and keep walking. Once again, they are more aggressive in Fes, and may even grab onto you.

Lodging

There are multiple options from low budget to large, beautiful 5-star hotels charging more than a thousand dollars a night.  The eco-lodges tend to offer a more down-to-earth type of lodging with a more cultural experience.  Riads are large homes that have been turned into inns, basically.

It is also fairly easy to arrange treks into the desert, especially in the south, where you can experience a lifestyle more typical of the nomadic Berbers.

If you would like to experience the nontouristy, more rural side of Moroccan life, I would highly recommend staying in the Tighmert oasis (where we lived for 2 months).  It is located just outside Gulemim, which is called the Gateway to the Sahara.  We became friends with a French woman who owns an eco-lodge on the oasis, and I would highly recommend her place.

If you are looking for the all-inclusive route, we stayed in one in Agadir that was quite enjoyable.  It is seaside, has multingual staff, had great facilities (including an indoor salt water pool), and the food was fairly good.  We booked it through Orbitz for about $90 a night for 2 people near Christmastime.

Staying in a city’s medina (the old, walled part of the city) will give you an interesting experience, even though you’ll be in a more touristy area.  As always, staying in an apartment or flat is even better since you’ll get more of a feel for what life is like and a better insight into the culture of a place.

Beaches

Morocco has a long coastline.  Two of the more popular beach locations are Agadir and Essaouira.  If you want a more rural experience, I would recommend Sidi Ifni.  We thoroughly enjoyed Essaouria, though, and it’s a place I would’ve been happy to stay at longer.

Agadir’s beaches have a very strong smell from the ocean, and I didn’t find them to be as relaxing as Essaouira. Plus, there are more touts that troll the beach areas in Agadir.

Top places to visit

This is obviously only my opinion, but for me the best places to visit in Morocco are: Marrakech (2-3 days), Chefchaouen, Essaouira, and Guelmim/Tighmert (2-3 days).

Do you have any Morocco travel tips you’d like to share?

Morocco has given me some unique perspectives.

I never voiced this to anyone, but I was a bit nervous coming here.  Not just because of the language limitations.  While I have friends and connections who are Muslim, I’ve never been to a mostly Muslim area before.  Yes, in the States all you really get exposed to is the uglier side of the fanatic, extreme side of Islam, but that didn’t bother me. I knew that stuff wasn’t representative of the whole Muslim culture.  What bothered me was how I would be received as an American. Particularly in light of some of the things going on in the Middle East.

I came prepared to tell people I was from Canada. Not because of any shame of being from the States, but because I wanted to be given a chance.  The first time I told someone we were from the States, they were quite surprised. “We don’t get many Americans here! So tell me, what do you think of this Romney character.”

What?

While our train departed from the station, I engaged in a fascinating political discussion with an older Moroccan male. He felt Romney was “all about money” and gave me reasons why he believed that.  He brought up other things and proved he was actually more informed about things in my native country than many of my fellow citizens.  He hoped for an Obama win, so I’m sure he was happy when he heard the news a couple of weeks later.

While most Moroccans are of Berber origin, the culture is quite Arabic.  I knew the Middle Eastern culture was very hospitable, but I was still surprised by the overall warmth and friendliness of the people, even when they weren’t trying to sell me something.

Most Moroccans live a very humble life.  In rural areas, the average person earns about $428 per month.  That means that purchasing 1 kg of camel is 3% of their monthly wage.

When we eat breakfast at our favorite joint we always order kulshi (meaning, literally, “all”).  We’ll split 3 eggs, a basket of breads, a dish of argon butter (kind of like almond butter), a pot of tea, and 2 large mugs of fresh-squeezed orange juice.  We pay 37 MAD, or $4.40, for this breakfast.  That is almost 1/3 of a person’s average daily wage, and we are getting charged the locals price.  Our 3G Internet service costs just $24 a month per person. A kilo of produce is around 15 MAD ($1.78).

In the States, our current extremely modest income places our 2-person household well below the poverty line. Here we spend about the same as what a Moroccan earns each month, but we also aren’t paying for electricity or rent, and it’s for 1 adult and 1 child, whereas as most Moroccan families we’ve seen have at least 5 people.  That doesn’t include the good chance that they are also supporting the husband’s mother and father, and it is highly likely that neither of them are bringing in an income either.

I was recently quite touched when a man who had been walking from table to table begging for a cup of tea saw Tigger.  He came over and handed him a dirham (about 8.5 cents), smiled, and walked away.  Later while taking the shared taxi home, a lady took out a small, plastic toy elephant from her purse and handed it to my son to play with.  He tried to give it back to her as we were leaving the cab, but she wouldn’t hear of it.

In addition to being challenged by life here, I’ve been humbled by the generosity of people much poorer than ourselves.  I have to fight against politely refusing gifts such as when our nearly toothless vegetable vendor hands us 2 oranges for free.  To refuse a gift would offer a painful insult.  To counter with money or another gift could very well be another form of insult.

Today was my final grocery trip into town. I found myself getting emotional as I let people know we were leaving, especially when Ibrahim, our favorite fruit vendor, asked for my address so we could keep in touch. Tigger had slept in and decided he’d rather not join me for the journey.  Every person we knew asked after him.

This is the part of slow travel that is the most magical and the most painful.  We’ve gotten to know people, build small relationships, and in a way become part of the community.  And in 3 days we leave for the next destination.  I definitely am not the same man who almost didn’t cross the border nearly three months ago.  This country has left an indelible mark on me.

We haven’t left yet, but my heart already aches for Morocco, most especially for Guelmim and our little oasis of Tighmert.

Basically, Moroccan food sucks.

Sure, a nice tajine or couscous sounds delightful. As does my favorite dish, b’stella. I love quickly breaking the powdered sugar-coated flaky crust with my fingers and watching the steam rise from the delicious mixture of ground meat, cinnamon and egg. It’s hard to avoid burning your tongue and fingertips because you can’t wait for it to cool down before digging in.

When I go to buy our chameau, I look for the displayed dismembered camel leg. A small leg means the meat came from a calf so it’s better for chops.  A larger leg indicates it’s an older camel, so it’s best for kafta.  I then indicate which one I want, the butcher slices it off the section hanging from a metal hook, and voila, we’re on our way. If it’s kafta, he grinds it for me while I stand there.

Chicken is so fresh that it’s still running around a small pen when you order it.  Come back a few minutes later, and the plucked chicken is waiting for you in a bag.

Veggies and fruit are bought from vendors in either a kiosk or a compilation of carts.  My favorite vendor is one of the few who doesn’t make me irritated when I hear him calling out Bonjour, mon ami!  He can get away with it because he gives me good stuff and doesn’t try to rob me.

At our favorite breakfast place, they squeeze your juice after you order it.

Fresh food does always taste better, but there’s only so much you can do.  The local cuisine, at least in the areas we’ve been, has been less than exciting.  Okay, frankly, it’s been boring.  How boring?  The other day I was thinking how lovely a batch of Chicken McNuggets would taste.

Yes, it really is that bad.

And bland.

Now, to be fair I love spicy food.  I’m happiest when I have to wipe sweat off my brow and my nose is running (from the spices).  In the States, when I eat Thai food and order it super spicy, they usually stand somewhere they can watch. I think they’re afraid my head will explode. When I eat Mexican, I tell them to cook it for a Mexican not a gringo.  Even then I’m usually adding more salsa to it.

French and Italian food is flavorful enough that I still love it even if it doesn’t make me sweat or surprise me the next morning.

In Essaouira, I sat amused as an African woman got so frustrated with the cook that she stepped behind the counter and seasoned her own food.  I found that to be a little rude, but now I think she’s just been here for a while.  The same flavors day in and day out are just not enough.  At first I was thinking I was just being too much of a food snob, but when Tigger started complaining the food was too bland I knew it was serious.

Definitely come to Morocco. The experience is unlike any other place you’re likely to visit. Just be prepared to either go somewhere touristy for a cuisine break or plan a food heaven location for when you leave.

You’ll thank me later.

Dear Maroc,

I hope it’s okay to call you that. I know it’s only been 2 months, but I feel like we’ve shared enough to be on a more personal basis.

May I just start by saying how much you confuse and amaze me?  I’m pretty adept at picking up on cultures and things, and well, every time I think I’ve got you nailed down you laugh a little and surprise me.  Good for you!

One thing has really struck me about you, though. I used to think that islanders owned the title for most laid back people, but I gotta hand it to you, Maroc: Your people kick ass at it.  Case in point when our bus tried to break down. We got out for the scheduled 25-minute bus stop, even though that was supposed to happen back in Tiznit.  I was curious, though, when 40 minutes later we were still there.  I was on a schedule you know. I had someone waiting for me at the house who I needed to relieve, so after an hour I was getting. . . shall we say slightly perturbed.

But were your countrymen? Oh no. They sat there drinking tea and chatting as if this had all been planned. Finally after 1-1/2 hours I found the driver and asked when we were leaving. Then and only then was it announced that the bus had broken down and we were waiting for a part.

What? Why didn’t you tell the whole bus? And more over, why didn’t some of these other people ask before me? Because they aren’t slightly more tightly wound Westerners I’m guessing.  “We’ll just sit here drinking tea until they tell us it’s time to go. Whenver that is.”  I’m getting there. You’re teaching me.

I already had a pretty open mind, but you’ve opened it further. We humans tend to see things as they appear rather than as they are. I’m so grateful for the people who have been willing to open up and share with me so I can see things from a different angle.

I love hearing the multi-phrase greetings that seem to take 5 minutes between people.  When someone gets into a taxi, they don’t just greet one person they know, they greet the entire taxi.  And everyone joins in the string of words that is meant to check in with people as well as give glory to Allah.  You and I aren’t on the same wavelength on that last bit, but I still don’t hesitate to say hamdullah or insh’allah at the appropriate times.

You have absolutely no sense of personal space between the same genders.  This is. . . interesting for us Westerners because, you see, we believe we are all surrounded by an invisible bubble. Even though you can’t see it, you still avoid crossing the unseen boundaries. If I sit near someone on a bus, I should bring my leg in a bit if we accidentally touch. Not in Morocco, though! Oh, no sir. There’s always more room to add someone else, no? Even if part of my ample posterior is almost on top of my neighbor’s leg.

And when I get Tigger to move onto my lap to create more space for someone, your people are quite clear that there is plenty of room for us all to be squished together. Oh no, don’t inconvenience yourself by putting the kid on your lap, monsieur! And why make him stand just so a woman can sit in the only remaining seat?  He’s a child, therefore it doesn’t matter that he’s male. He can just sit right down on her lap. No problem, papa, don’t you mind. We’re all good friends here.

When two people chat, even if they’re strangers, they have to be touching so that the other person knows they’re being heard and are important. At least that’s what I get out of it. I find it reassuring even though it still surprises me when someone I don’t know puts their hand on my shoulder or arm while speaking to me.

You are so kind to ignore my rather crap French, too.  When it takes a few minutes, several rounds of circumlocution, pantomiming, sign language, etc., to get something across, and the light finally turns on for me you join me in a hearty laugh about it.

You aren’t pressured for me to hurry up and get out of the damn line so the next person can be served. In fact, a couple of times someone has left the line to go retrieve someone they knew spoke a few more words in English or Spanish so that by combining all 4 spoken languages we finally get to where we need to go. You guys never lose patience with me.

Moroccans are so kind to my child. Even the poulterer with whom I rarely share more than the customary greeting and a request for juj kilo, asks about my cute little tag-along when he isn’t by my side.  He has, to me, one of the most awful jobs in the world, yet every time I see him, his brown vinyl apron covered with feathers and. . . accoutrements from his activities, he has a huge grin for me.

Your country and your people are so alive.

Maroc, you humble me. You truly do.  And, I hope you don’t mind me saying this, but, well, I’m in love with you.

It’s easy enough to get to this almost sleepy town from Marrakech.  It’s a few hours by bus which includes a 30-minute rest stop with bathrooms (none on the bus) and where you can buy hot food.

If you’ve been to one of the other popular areas, you probably think you have the whole medina navigation thing mastered.  Well, just when you think you have Morocco figured out, it laughs in your face and says “Oh really?” We got through Marrakech’s labyrinth without a hitch, yet it took a few times of getting lost in Essaouira’s medina to take my pride down a notch or two.

Where Marrakech’s medina and square are colorful, Essaouira’s is much blander.  There are clear areas where the tourists tend to gather and where the locals do their shopping.  Street food is abundant.  The people watching opportunities are absolutely wonderful.  This town shuts down fairly early, and the medina will calm down much earlier than in the big cities up north.

I love the sheer joy on his face

Finding lodging is pretty easy.  There are usually people at the bus stop who will offer to rent you a flat.  Many of these are in the medina.  Having spent a lot of time in the medina, I don’t recommend living there.  Especially if you’ve already had experience dealing with the chaos of Morocco.  We rented an apartment through AirBNB, and it was perfect! We were in a neighborhood of solid locals, which I absolutely loved.  The one down side was being closer to the mosque speakers so you got a little early wakeup call before 6 AM every day as they issued the call to prayer.  It was easy enough to fall back asleep, though.

We were here in the off season which meant the beaches were amazingly uncrowded.  Most of the people were either locals or Moroccan tourists.  The water is chilly, but that didn’t stop Tigger.  If you come to the beach with kids, make sure to bring dry clothes because when they finally exit the surf, lips blue from the cold, they’ll want to change into something dry quickly.  There are plenty of chaise loungers for rent.  Feel free to haggle the price down.  They initially wanted to charge me 40 MAD.  Since it was low season, I was able to get them to give me the more reasonable price of 15 MAD.  Whatever you pay, you get the chair for the whole day.

Essaouira has so much charm in it that it’s easy to see yourself staying longer.  Just make sure to give yourself plenty of time to explore the medina’s nooks and crannies.  And you’ll want to bring your camera.  It is one incredibly photogenic area.

Tips:

• If you’re staying in the medina, they don’t allow taxis to go inside.  You may want to go ahead and pay the guys with carts 10-20 MAD to carry your luggage for you.  If going elsewhere, a taxi should only charge you 6 MAD.
• Want a filling meal? Eat at one of the chicken places.  You can get a whole chicken, Moroccan salad (no lettuce but a combination of veggies that is quite tasty), French fries, olives, bread, and drinks for 90 MAD total for 2 people.  More people add a very small amount to the price.
• When eating where mostly locals go, expect to eat with your hands, especially for things like kebabs, chicken, and fried fish.  There will be a small sink in the dining area for you to wash your hands before and after your meal (although usually there’s no soap).  Use the squares of paper as towels.  You can use your left hand to hold bread and things, but try to make sure that only your right hand brings food to your mouth.  If you end up using your left, no worries since you’re a tourist.
• Some toilets are squat and others are the more traditional Western throne style.  Rarely, though, will you find toilet paper, so it’s wise to keep some on you.
• The freshest fish is sold near the skala.  Look and listen for the flocks of birds near the water’s edge by the medina.
• In Morocco, haggling is part of the culture.  I know it’s hard to do sometimes when you consider how low many of the prices already are, but when you just accept the first price. you’re not playing the game.  Go ahead and haggle, even if your counter offer is just a bit below their offer.  It’s how things are done unless you’re in a store.
• If you tend to get car sick or get motion sickness, you may want to take something for the bus trip.  It’s generally not an issue, but there are a couple of stretches that might bother you if you’re sensitive.