The island is a short flight from Kuala Lumpur (KL) and Penang. There is ferry service from Penang, and you can also travel by ferry between Langkawi and Thailand’s Koh Lipe. So it’s a rather well-placed island really.

Surprisingly, much of the island is rather undeveloped, which is something I absolutely loved. Penang is a very happening island whereas Langkawi gives visitors a chance to experience rural Malaysian life. We did a house sit and spent a month on the island. I loved the simplicity and typical slow feel to life.

Once you leave the “big city” of Kuah, you encounter the island’s natural side. There are beautiful beaches, gorgeous mountain views, waterfalls, and rice paddies. It’s a great place for people who love the outdoors.

One of the other advantages of Langkawi is that it is loaded with duty-free shops with some rather great deals, especially if you like chocolate and/or liquor. If you’ve spent time in other areas of Malaysia, you know that booze can be a bit on the expensive side. You’ll enjoy the prices here much more.

Activities

While we were there, we rode the cable car a few times, and we never got tired of the amazing views. The Sky Bridge was closed, but I was more than happy to avoid that. For those of you who don’t have issues with heights and/or a healthy fear of falling, you’d probably love it. It looks like it would be a great experience for those without these fears.

The drive to the cable car area is quite fun, too, because you will usually see throngs of wild monkeys alongside the road. It’s fun to watch them play. The cable car is located next to one of the big waterfalls, so plan on spending some time around here.

In Pantai Cenang (pronounced as che-nang), you’ll find plenty of opportunities for things like parasailing, kite surfing, windsurfing, jet skis, etc. This is one of the big tourist areas, so you’ll also find lots of international restaurants.

If you’d like food recommendations, check out this post on my food site.

We visited Mahsuri’s tomb and left feeling rather disappointed. It’s an interesting legend from Langkawi’s past, but the whole attraction feels like a tourist trap. Entrance is 10 MYR (about $3 USD) for adults, so it won’t break the bank, but that 10 MYR could buy you some really good food or a nice adult beverage instead.

We avoided the Langkawi Wildlife Park because I saw too many reviews that referenced the small size of cages and animals being tied up for long periods of time.

A drive or walk to the top of Gunung Raya, Langkawi’s tallest peak, affords some fabulous views of the island that you don’t get from the cable car. It’s also cooler up there which is a nice break from the tropical heat.

Villages have their night markets during different days of the week, and each market is rather different from the other, so it was really enjoyable to visit various markets to get a better feel for typical local life. They can’t really compete with KL and Penang’s street food, but you wouldn’t really expect a small island to be any different.

Nature enthusiasts might also enjoy the geoforest parks, Pulau Payar Marine Park, the agrotechnology park and Eagle Square.

Getting Around

Being undeveloped also means a lack of public transportation. While there are plenty of taxis, you’ll get much more out of your visit by renting a car or scooter. It’s really easy to drive around the island, and traffic is really not an issue.

If you aren’t experienced driving in SE Asia, you might have a bit of a shock just because rules of the road are sometimes. . . flexible. Driving here requires more of your attention than in some other places outside Asia, but it’s really quite easy.

Keep an eye out for cows and goats crossing the roads. They have a tendency to show much disdain for human traffic laws.

Beaches

There are some really great beaches on the island, and it’s obvious why Pantai Cenang has become one of the big tourist areas. In addition to swimming areas, though, there are some wonderful beaches to visit for other reasons.

Pantai Kok is a great place to enjoy a picnic while watching the sun set.

Pantai Pasir Hitam has a mix of black and normal sand which is kind of fun to see. There is a cool local legend about why the sand is black, and you can read about the legend while visiting the beach. If you want to avoid the tout gauntlet, look for the sign pointing to the beach located on the left side of the parking lot (as you face the buildings). There is a path that helps you avoid the vendors, even though they aren’t as aggressive as other places.

Pantai Tengah can also be a nice beach to visit if you want to avoid the potentially more crowded one at Cenang.

Places to stay

There are various types of lodging all over the island, from rustic guest houses to multiple-starred resorts. Even the small villages have at least guest homes and homestays, so don’t feel like you have to stay in the big tourist areas.

As we were housesitting, I didn’t have much experience with the various lodging offerings on the island. However, we did stay one night at Alia Residence Business Resort. I would definitely recommend it. They have a nice swimming pool, the air conditioning works quite well, the breakfast is pretty decent, service was fantastic, and the room was quite comfortable. Their WiFi was decent, too. I also liked that it is located in an area that doesn’t get a lot of Western tourists.

We really enjoyed staying on Langkawi. It was a really great break from the city life of KL, and it’s so easy to get to that I would encourage people to add it to your Malaysian itinerary.

Have you been to Langkawi? What’s your favorite area or site to visit?

I’m in my 30s and a female. The sexual orientation would be a lesbian or what the local gay community calls a “PLU” which stands for “People Like Us.” I am a Malay and a Muslim. Not active but still believe in Him today.

Does your family know about your orientation? If yes, how are they about it? Are they accepting? Is it a secret from others? Has your relationship changed with your family after revealing your orientation?

Being a Muslim tends to make it difficult to be open to the family. Mine probably know, but they are in denial and think that this is a phase which I will get out of one fine day. I don’t push them to accept me this way because it takes time for older folks to understand, especially in our culture as well. My siblings are more open to it and as long as I’m happy, they’re happy too. I have PLU cousins where one family is able to accept her for who she is (a butch) and another forced her to wear feminine clothes when going out with the family, because she is a butch. It’s tough for them and because of this they want to run away from their family and be with people who accept them instead.

[Editors’s note: In case you aren’t familiar with the terminology, a butch means a woman who has more masculine behavior in dress as well as in other areas.]

Do you feel that you are able to be “out” in your daily life, or are you only able to be open with close friends?

I keep my life private as I don’t want it to be a problem for the family. I am more protective of them than anything. As I look like any normal girl, everyone assumes I am straight. I only open to those who are also gay and those who are open minded. Sadly, not everyone, even friends, are able to accept a lesbian friend compared to a gay (male) friend.

What is life like for gays in Malaysia?

It depends on who you surround yourself with. People are more accepting towards gay boys/men as opposed to lesbian women so it’s become very normal to see them around town. However, they don’t do public display of affection, not even holding hands as this is still an Asian country. There used to be such grand PLU parties in town a few years back where we would stay up all night meeting like-minded people. That has somehow disappeared, and now the night scene is mostly for the gay boys/men while the girls change scenes and are more active in arts, live band shows, etc. In terms of PLUs having a family of their own as single parent or with a parent, that’s still relatively new here and not many people out themselves about it.

Malaysia has some potentially aggressive policies and laws. Do you ever feel afraid you will be arrested for being homosexual?

Not really. For a Muslim, if you’re caught with another man, you’re most likely to be taken in and advised to get married (legally bound) as sex before marriage is considered a big sin. However, if you’re in a room with the same sex, we’re unlikely to be caught, and this makes the relationship more comfortable and free compared to straight relationships. If you go to the massage parlour (for the men) and get caught during a raid, then yes that will not be a happy scene.

Do Muslim teachings and attitudes toward homosexuality make it difficult for you to engage in your faith? Did you ever go through a period where you had a crisis of faith because of what the religion teaches about homosexuality? How did you work through it?

I believe that God made everyone this way for a reason and for me that is enough to keep the faith going. It has made me a stronger person and made me so much more sure of myself than ever before. I have gay friends who pray 5 times a day, perform Haj and never miss a day of “fasting” during Ramadan. It’s what keeps us going, this faith. No matter what happens, we still have Him to lean on. Even when others may not accept us, He will. So no, I never had difficulty in engaging my faith as I never have doubted it at all.

If you’re in or have been in a same-sex relationship, did you feel that you were able to be open about it? I know some Americans, where homosexuality is more accepted in some areas, still pretend they’re roommates to most of their friends, family, and coworkers. What has been your experience?

If no one asks, I don’t tell. Asians are still very shy and mostly keep to themselves so there’s not many who would go to you and ask point blank “Are you a Lesbian?” because they feel it’s embarrassing enough to just ask. I try to keep my private life out of my career life as people may want to use it against me should I be successful one day. It’s just better this way. If you looked like a tomboy/butch, they would go “Ok she’s gay, we’re cool about it,” but when a girl is femme as hell, like me, they go “Why? Why? Why?” because they feel there’s still a chance for me to be straight.

If a gay foreigner was considering visiting or moving to Malaysia, what suggestions would you give them?

I would say “Welcome!” You’ll be surprised that people are very open when it comes to gay foreigners compared to gay locals. They feel proud to know one! Stay in areas which consists of business people, expats, the modern types such as Hartamas, Mont Kiara, anywhere in Kuala Lumpur city and you should be ok. Actually you’ll be ok anywhere because locals just love to be friends with a foreigner.

Do you foresee a time when being gay or lesbian will be accepted in Malaysia? What do you think needs to happen to change attitudes?

This will be hard, especially for lesbians, as the elders still want their girls to end up marrying a nice man, to bear children. Over here if you’re a single woman (lesbian) and want to adopt, it will be a tough process as the authority will ask many questions and one of them is “Will you want to get married anytime soon?” It’s easier for gay men to adopt, though, mainly because the man is known as the leader in a household, so it’s no problem for them. I do hope it will be accepted some day. I feel that slowly it is being accepted in KL, but in terms of career, most companies still want to “look” at you before deciding, and I’ve had many lesbian friends who were turned down for jobs because of the way they look (butch). Only certain industries accept us, such as the entertainment industry, arts, advertising, media, PR, and banking, among some. I think people should start accepting us for who we are and stop asking all the “Why” questions.

As I pondered my personal question, I broadened my query out to perhaps an even more important one—What is life like for Muslim gay people? Islam is not known for its tolerance of the LGBT community and its lifestyle, even though in many Muslim countries sex between men is not uncommon due to the prohibitions of interaction between the sexes. Relations between women are generally ignored.

I reached out to some friends, and in turn a couple of brave Malays stepped forward to be interviewed.

Saiful* is a 33-year-old gay male who is Malay. Members of the Malay ethnic group basically have no choice in their religion. They are raised Muslim and are expected to follow its principles. He identifies himself as a liberal Muslim, someone who practices his religion sparingly.

Does your family know about your orientation? If yes, how are they about it? Are they accepting? Is it a secret from others?

I am not out of the closet with my family. Though they have an inkling about me because I am 33 and have no girlfriend. They know I am close to a lot of  guy friends through the years.  I often sleep over at some of their homes. In my 20s, my family did ask whether I had a girlfriend or was interested in marriage and such, but nowadays my mother and father do not touch on the topic anymore. Relatives are usually the most persistent ones who never fail to ask: “So when is your time? When is the big day? Bila lagi (When)? Ada calon, tak? (Do you have any suitors?). A couple of my gay Malay friends also experience such inquisitions during family get-togethers at Hari Raya Aidilfitri (Eid), weddings, and other communal Malay gatherings.

Do you feel that you are able to be “out” in your daily life, or are you only able to be open with close friends?

Depends on where I am. At the office, being gay is an accepted norm as I am in the creative/media line. So most people at my workplace know about my sexual orientation. Generally, outside the office I do not portray myself as gay, or at least try to not do so. I like to go to the gay clubs in KL, like Blue Boy in Bukit Bintang (that’s a really old, run-down place, but it has survived the best and worst of times, unlike many other flash-in-the-pan gay clubs in KL). I bring my boyfriend to Blue Boy sometimes, and he enjoys it because he is still new to the gay world and likes to see what it’s like. I go cruising at KL sauna/spas and the two cruising Lake parks in Kelana Jaya and Tasik Permaisuri in Cheras.

In this sense, I am only “out” with my close friends. And of course I can be myself with my boyfriend.

What is life like for gays in Malaysia?

I like to describe it as “thriving but we have to keep up with appearances”. Of course in urban areas such as KL, gay men and women can be as out as they want. Just as long as they don’t cause trouble and do not disturb the system. Malay Muslims in Malaysia are still generally very conservative. It is still a very conservative community, despite of what people say. So to be gay and Muslim and a Malay requires a lot of tact. It also depends on what his/her line of work is. For me in my life, I am open to friends and colleagues, but I keep up appearances when I meet other people, as interviewing people is part of my job scope.

Sodomy is still against the law in Malaysia, so that is quite clear cut. But the religious state laws, which apply only to Muslims, varies from state to state and usually concern dressing up like a member of the opposite sex, or holding events that have “immoral” things such as drag-like performances. Yes sodomy is a sin in Islam, but prosecution in this offence (as with adultery or fornication offences) requires substantial personal evidence. As far as I understand, one needs at least 4 witnesses to prosecute a Muslim offender of fornication/adultery/sodomy.

I know there was a party in northern state Kedah, some years back,  that created headlines because the state Islamic religious authority found out it had drag-show like elements in the party.

My boyfriend and I once checked into a cheap hotel and personnel from the religious authority knocked on our door to check on offenders for khalwat (close proximity). I was very scared, because I am not confident about stuff and feared they might find fault at our being in the same room together. But my boyfriend asked me to hide in the bathroom. When the religious personnel found out there were only 2 guys in the room, instead of finding a guy with a girl, they left.

I believe there was another incident of a reforming-style camp in Terengganu state, or someplace else, for guys who dressed up as women (referred to in the Malay slang as Mak Nyah). I forget the objective of the camp, but it was not that ultra-religious in nature. A deputy minister had also last year condoned a parents conference that, among other things, included a discussion on how to identify youths with lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender (LGBT) tendencies. It created an uproar among people as the deputy minister, who also launched the event, agreed to the topics at the talk, one of which was that gay men could be identified by a penchant for wearing V-neck T-shirts, carrying large handbags, wearing light-coloured outfits, and sleeveless shirts. Gay women were identifiable by their habit of hanging out with women all times of the day and night, the conference was noted. I thought the conference and what the deputy minister said was ridiculous as there are many many “closeted” men and women in Malaysia, who look and act like the normal everyday guy/girl. You can find these men cruising in the dark rooms of bathhouses on weekends, or the dark corners of cruising spots in KL.

I suppose the worst off among the gay community are the transvestites and transgender people in Malaysia, as their appearances are more apparent than their “straight-acting” counterparts. I have met many and worked with a couple in a theatre troupe I joined while working in Kedah. I can say their lifestyle is more difficult as they need to make ends meet while putting up with the stigma that still exists for people like them. Of course, their hardships are also related in some ways by their  socioeconomic situation and educational backgrounds. But I still regard them as good friends who are just like me. They only look and act differently. They are Malay Muslims also but because they are from the heartland, jobs for them only consist of the typical bridal/wedding planner line, food and beverage or hospitality industries. Though there are many many successful crossdressers and transvestites in the cities, involved in various fields, appearance is still a big problem for them when it comes to finding their place in society, which is a sad thing.

So keeping up appearances is still a big deal in Malaysia I would think, that is if you want to thrive in some sort of way. Thrive in the conventional sense, I suppose. But the advent of social media and smartphone apps like Grindr, Wechat, and others enables gay men to socialise in a more efficient but still private manner. In the late 90s to mid-2000s, Malaysian netizens loved using online chat software like MIRC or the relay chat things. I used to chat on this and exchange photos and phone numbers to get dates. I lost my virginity to a guy I met on one of these online dating sites, which had a high gay following in Malaysia..

One of my friend says there are a few seemingly gay-friendly commercial spots in KL. Pavilion shopping centre seems to be frequented by much of the liberal gay men of the city, and I heard that the younger set of these men have been seen  holding hands at the mall, though I am sure those are isolated cases. A restaurant in Bandar Sri Permaisuri in Cheras, which is near to the cruising lake, is also considered an eatery for gay men. I forget the name but is within the vicinity of the old town and Dominos Pizza in the area.

Malaysia has some potentially aggressive policies and laws. Do you ever feel afraid you will be arrested for being homosexual?

Yeah, I suppose I feared that when I was “caught” by the religious authorities, as they can always choose to find some kind of fault with anyone if we are not smart in defending ourselves.Though I know the actual religious offences (in Malaysia’s case, it’s Islamic religious law which is enforced at the respective state level), and these offences are very specific as it target cross dressers, alcohol consumption, and the such. Rarely are the religious department personnel looking out for gay men in close proximity. That is usually the job of local authorities or municipal councils, as they weed out immoral activities or suspected activities.

Gay bathhouses that have been raided are usually booked for having drug paraphernalia or even sex items (condoms, etc.).  Newspapers have reported how the customers are clad in only towels and later hauled up to book, but they are usually gay massage parlours which are booked to catch illegal immigrants, or premises without permits. Yes, indecency is also a point that can be used against any offender, but I am not sure of what is the exact law. Patrolling policemen often monitor the cruising areas in the two lake parks in KL. But most times, they ask for identification or give a warning. I have heard of cruisers being brought to the police station but it’s usually for questioning. A masseur I know had been booked by police and stayed in jail a night as he overstayed his tourist pass/permit while working at a gay massage parlour.

As a Muslim, what is life like being both a Muslim and a gay man? Do Muslim teachings and attitudes toward homosexuality make it difficult for you to engage in your faith? Did you ever go through a period where you had a crisis of faith because of what the religion teaches about homosexuality?

The religion is very clear about homosexuality. My best friends, who are Muslim and gay, deal with these issues in their own way.  The thing about Malays is that the majority of us are open minded in our outlook, but our religion of Islam is very sacred to us. Many Malay Muslims might be gay or lesbians but they do it discreetly to not upset this sort of “balance” the Malays prefer to keep. Malays in Malaysia, especially in the peninsula, are very progressive in work and business, but when they return home to their hometowns and families, they adhere to the religion very closely. The same Malay guy who might live with his boyfriend in KL, hangs out with mostly gay friends out of work, and outwardly portrays his sexuality (to a certain extent) will keep up appearances when he “balik kampung” or returns to his hometown.

I do that, and my friends who are gay generally do that.

Essentially, a true Muslim would know that even though the religion forbids homosexuality, it does not encourage one to hate or belittle a gay person. My boyfriend is from the kampung, and whenever I sleep over at his mother’s house, I am referred to simply as a guy friend, and no one would make any fuss. Personally I think the genuinely, humble Malay Muslims in rural areas are more open to these so called guy friends as they do not think ill of such relationships as they are not exposed to the gay culture as much as people in the towns.

My mother, who has asked me before when I was in my early 20s whether I was gay (I lied and responded in the negative), is on to me. She will always question about the guy friends I hang out with. You could say I live in a sort of denial with my family. I just keep the balance, not rocking the boat. It is a personal preference

I had prayed to be not who I am when I was younger, but that never helped.

In terms of religious practices for myself, I still say my prayers whenever I can. I regard Islam as something spiritual and I believe in the divine being. I had prayed to be not who I am when I was younger, but that never helped. So now I am at peace with myself most times because I know Islam for me, is more personal, sacred and all embracing and all encompassing. It is not a shallow religion of outer trappings. I feel it is a progressive religion that found its way to the Malays centuries ago and adapted itself with the cultures of this region. Religion is also an ultrasensitive topic for Malays especially in peninsular Malaysia, and this is why it is easily exploited by politicians and their political parties, and certain groups in certain ways.

Have I ever had a crisis of faith? Not really, because despite how gay my life has been now or in the past, my religion was still hanging around somewhere. Not far behind. It is there if ever I decide to say my prayers after a difficult personal situation. And it helps that i have a deeply devout parents, as well as devout friends.

I suppose I had that tumultuous period of balancing my desire to be a good Muslim with my sexuality when I was about 15 or 16. It is a hard time to be in as I was a teenager. But being in boarding school, an all Muslim one, I had hoped to be changed in a way. But you know how when one tries too hard, nothing comes out of it. I ended up having my first sexual encounter at the boarding school (when I was 16) with a guy who was the typical jock, popular, religious-seeming on the outside, but who likes effeminate guys on the inside. I eventually broke up with him because I told him I did not want to lead that kind of life, back then. He told me that I would eventually date many many other men after him. His words hold true till today.

He saw who I was for real. And I, by habit of personality am often in denial with truths. But I got through with that period of denying my true self by slowly easing my way to the gay life, through my best friends. I lost my virginity at 22. and I have been on double dates, even sharing hotel rooms with these close friends when we stay out with our respective partners.I have many gay-friendly straight friends who I got to know through the course of my career so far. So people always help me get by.

If a gay foreigner was considering visiting or moving to Malaysia, what suggestions would you give them?

Get friends who are Malays, Indian, Chinese, Kadazan, Dayak, everything. Or mix with as many of the races as possible. They can live their lives as they want here, but gay culture is still in the closet, generally. It takes a bit of tact and understanding of surroundings.

Do you foresee a time when being gay or lesbian will be accepted in Malaysia? What do you think needs to happen to change attitudes?

Not any time soon as people here are still quite conservative. Gay culture is till under wraps and only thrives at discos, spas, online, behind closed doors.

Regardless of what religion they are, Malaysians are conservative in their cultures. I am in Sabah now, and despite the absence of a Malay Muslim majority, the Bumiputera (indigenous people) here are just as concerned about keeping this so-called balance and not wanting to rock the boat of this brand of, well, peaceful existence with each other.

*Not his real name.

Building of the domed mosque finished in 1988. It was built to celebrate the city of Shah Alam being dedicated as the new capital of the state of Selangor.

This impressive structure holds some equally impressive titles:

• Largest religious dome in the world.
• The 4 minarets are the 2nd largest in the world, although combined they represent the world’s largest group of minarets.
• The Blue Mosque is Malaysia’s largest mosque.
• It is the 2nd largest mosque in Southeast Asia.

We’ve spent a lot of time in Muslim countries, and mosques tend to be fairly similar in design so after seeing the national mosque in KL, I wasn’t really all that enthused about visiting any others. However, our friends at Bohemian Travelers recommended it, so I figured it was worth the effort.

We joined up with some friends and took the wonderful Komuter train into the town of Shah Alam. From KL Sentral, adults will pay 5 MYR ($1.52 USD) for a roundtrip ticket (12 and under will pay half). The journey takes about 40 minutes. From the train station, you’ll either need to take a taxi or a bus to get to the mosque. A taxi will usually run around 10-15 MYR. It’s best to catch a taxi on the street than at the taxi as those typically charge per person for a shared taxi.

When exiting the train station at Shah Alam station, there is often someone taking the tickets from passengers. If you bought a roundtrip ticket, make sure to tell the attendant or he’ll keep the ticket. You will need that ticket to return to KL. If you have a Touch ‘n Go Pass, it works for the Komuter trains.

As we rode en route to the mosque, I enjoyed looking at the fairly quiet town. As one would expect, it’s much more sedate than the sprawling functional capital of KL (Malaysia has a separate administrative capital).

In spite of having scene photos of the beautiful structure, I was not prepared to be blown away as I spotted it from the road. It easily stands out like a beautiful sapphire. The taxi driver smiled as I oohed and ahhed and kept going on about how gorgeous it was.

After having had to wear a robe at the national mosque since my knees weren’t covered adequately, I wisely brought a sarong with me to wrap around my waist. I don’t know how the Muslim women handle being covered from head to toe in the steamy heat of Malaysia. Tigger, however, was forced to wear a robe since he had slightly too much knee showing. The head covering is just his usual personal fashion statement.

Admission to the Blue Mosque is free. You will have to remove your shoes before entering the building. A volunteer guide shows you around the structure and explains some of the rooms, such as the absolution area where people wash various areas of their body prior to going into the prayer room.

The writing around the dome of the mosque is from the Koran, and mosques usually all have similar geometrical designs as they are not allowed to include other designs like flowers or animals. This particular mosque’s architecture and carved designs was inspired by the Alhambra in Spain, a fact I learned when I made a comment about how similar some of the areas appeared.

Our guide spoke extremely good English, which is common in Malaysia, and was quite helpful.

Unless you are Muslim, you will not be enter too far into the prayer room, but you can see a lot of it, and it is quite beautiful. It is also fairly state of the art as it contains portable AC units throughout so that people can have relief from the heat while saying their prayers or studying the holy book.

Nearby, is a beautiful lake and park that is worth strolling in after or before your visit to the mosque. On the other side of the park are a couple of shopping plazas with eateries.

Shah Alam doesn’t really have much more to experience, but it’s worth the visit in my opinion. The Blue Mosque really needs to be seen in person to truly appreciate its wonderful beauty.

Do you enjoy visiting religious buildings when traveling?

Trains

Like most big cities, especially in southeast Asia, KL traffic can be horrific. Especially on a Friday afternoon. The monorail (MRT) and light rail (LRT) systems get you out of the vehicle traffic saving you a ton of time. This is even more helpful if you’re going a long distance, like to or from the low-cost carrier terminal (LCCT) or the main terminal of the airport (KLIA). Since the express train/bus combo costs about $4 USD versus $25-60 for a taxi from the LCCT, it’s pretty easy to see which option might be best. To KLIA, it’s about $10 USD. Children 4-12 are about half fare.

Unless you’re changing trains, on the average you’ll probably spend 1.60 MYR (about 50 cents USD) to travel to most locations within the city center area and nearby. However, if you’re on the Komuter train system, you can expect to sometimes pay even less. For example, a Komuter train from KL’s transportation hub KL Sentral to popular Batu Caves, about 8 km away from the city’s center) will only cost you 1 MYR one way.

The transit system has a fairly helpful website and free phone app which can assist you in planning your journey and figuring out the cost. Unfortunately, it doesn’t list departure/arrival times or estimated travel times. I’ve used the phone app (available for iPhone and Android) quite a bit not only for travel planning but to find the nearest station to my current location. It could be a bit more intuitive, but it’s still quite helpful.

It is also not a complicated rail system at all. Very simple to navigate.

If you’ll be in KL for a longer visit, I’d recommend getting the Touch ‘n Go pass. This will enable you to skip the long lines in front of the token machines and at the ticket windows. The transit system offers a similar pass, but it isn’t as robust as this one since their pass only works on the MRT and LRT systems while the Touch ‘n Go works on MRT, LRT, Komuter trains, buses, the KLIA Express (train to the airport), and so on. You can also use the card to make payment at tons of shopping, dining, and entertainment venues.

While you can reload your pass at many stations and other locations, you can only buy the actual pass from a select few places. The card costs 10 MYR (about $3 USD) to purchase. In KL, you’ll need to visit the Touch ‘n Go Hub which is located in the KL Sentral terminal next to the CIMB bank on the ground level. There are a few other places, but really this is the best and easiest option.

When going to the hub, you’ll see a machine by the door. Press the proper button, and it will give you a printed receipt with a number on it. Have a seat and wait until your number is called. The voice that announces the number and window is quite loud, and the announcement is in English.

The MRT cars are usually packed full of people since there are only 2 cars to each train. I generally try to avoid the MRT whenever an LRT train is an option.

Signage at the stations are quite good, so it’s pretty easy to the train system.

If you don’t have a pass, you’ll need to get a token through one of the machines or at the ticket window. When you go to the turnstile, place your token flat on top of the scanner (you’ll see a white circle and blue rectangle). It will beep, and the turnstile will open. Keep the token handy because you’ll need this at your final destination. When leaving the station, you drop the token in the slot on the turnstile to exit.

With a pass, you just place the pass against the scanner upon entry and exit. Each time the display will show you your remaining balance. Be advised that once your available balance goes below 2 MYR, it will not accept your card for travel. You’ll need to reload to keep using it. Since not every station can do reloads, or the system may be down, it’s a good idea to keep it loaded until you’re getting close to the time to leave the city. They do not issue any refunds of money left on the cards. The card needs to be used at least once a year to stay active.

If heading to the airport, head to KL Sentral first and take the KLIA Ekspres for KLIA (which an express service). If you’re going to the LCCT, you’ll get off at the 2nd to last stop and catch the free shuttle to the LCCT airport. If you’ve just arrived and are heading to KL, the train is easy to find in the KLIA airport. Arriving at the LCCT makes it a bit more of a challenge, and not a lot of people know what you’re talking about.

From LCCT, you’ll have to catch a bus to the train station. Leave the terminal and head to the 3rd lane. You’ll see buses lining up. Go to the purple KLIA sign. You pay for your ticket there (unless you have a Touch ‘n Go card already). They’ll give you a receipt with a QVAR code on it that you scan at the train station terminals (hold onto this receipt or you’ll have to pay again).

Bus

We actually have not used buses within KL since the train system works so well. However, the journey planner works for the bus system as well. Fares are extremely reasonable from 1 MYR (about 30 cents) for travel within one zone to 3 MYR for 4 or more zones.

They are air conditioned, but tend to be wall-to-wall people. Just like with any other large city, you’ll need to pay extra close attention to your belongings and pockets while riding the bus.

Taxi

Taxis are pretty affordable in KL. Generally, you can go 2 km for 15 MYR. Every single taxi will have a sign on it proclaiming it is a metered taxi and “no haggling” is permitted. Good luck with that. I’ve yet to see a taxi driver actually use the meter. They usually give you a reasonable fare, but occasionally you’ll get a stinker who tries to take advantage of the fact you aren’t a local.

Many of the shopping malls and transportation areas, like KL Sentral and the airports, and some attractions, have taxi desks. It’s cheaper, and less of a headache, to use these. Tell them where you’re going, and the clerk will quote you the appropriate fare. Once you pay the clerk, they’ll give you a ticket which you give to the driver, and that’s that. No other payment required. No hassle.

If using a taxi, make sure to add in extra time for traffic, especially around rush hours and Friday afternoons. Traffic can get really crazy and slow moving in KL.

The public transportation system offers a really great, inexpensive, and easy way to get around KL. One of the things I enjoy about a bigger city.

It was time, and we began the climb. I crabwalked up the steps, taking the pressure off the worst part of my knees. “Dad! There’s a monkey!” Tigger called out in caution, and I was grateful for an excuse to stop that wouldn’t make me look like a wimp. I sucked in deep breaths as I took photos of the monkeys curiously watching the humans huff and puff their way up the cement steps.

Damp brown faces smiled back at me in commiseration as together we turned our attention back to the painted steps. My muscles started to complain before my knees. Tigger bounced and hopped his way up the stairs in the way that makes parents wish they could somehow harness their child’s energy. Oh to have young, nonarthritic joints again.

Soon the top was in sight. “We’re almost to the top!” my child said gleefully, and I think sweetly as he knew I was probably in pain. I sardonically replied under my breath: This set of stairs. When I glanced back, I found Lord Murugan’s gaze firmly fixed upon the scene behind me, his mocking smile no longer visible. I turned my attention back to the one remaining flight of stairs and continued forward. At the top, I stared into the first limestone cave of the most popular Hindu shrine outside of India dedicated to the god of war and victory—Batu Caves.

After 2-1/12 years of continuous travel on 6 continents and umpteen different kinds of temples, it is hard to impress me. As I entered the second cave, though, I was filled with awe.

The shrines located within the caves are not superb by any definition. They are actually rather bland by comparison to other Hindu temples. But in this setting, one cannot help but be amazed. You feel small and insignificant standing inside the huge cavern. Sunlight filters in from above while monkeys run and jump among the rocks. Occasionally a loud crack is heard as a monkey throws a coconut down in its attempt to get to the sweet white meat inside.

Smoke steadily rises from censers as sustained chanting emanates from within the shrines while a shirtless priest intones the proper prayer for the offerings from pious worshippers. You are filled with reverence, peace, and calm. Even the expressed glee from fellow tourists enchanted by the monkeys does not feel intrusive in such a place. Time seems to slow down and become unimportant as the spirit of the place infuses you.

For a moment I wish I was Hindu or at least had a better understanding of what was being done and said.

I generally loathe the pain and discomfort I am guaranteed after climbing lots of stairs, but today I feel no misery. Those 300 stairs were worth every moment I was able to spend here.

When I return to the bottom, I look back up to Lord Murugan’s face. This statue is, incidentally, the tallest one of him in the world. I see now his smile does not mock me. Instead we share a moment of understanding.

It seems he knew what I would find all along.

Well played.

Tips on visiting Batu Caves

There is no entrance fee, and this site is incredibly easy to access. You can take a Komuter train from multiple places in KL. It’s located about 13 km (about 8 miles). We took the train from KL Sentral, and it cost 1 RYM (about 30 cents USD) one way. It’s not a long trip either, and the train is quite modern and air conditioned.

There are food and beverage vendors throughout the site, but you can also bring your own. A couple of the shops also sell fruit to feed to the monkeys. It’s kind of fun to feed them, but there is no hard sell. Just don’t try to hide food once you’ve pulled it out in front of them. Once they know you have food, they’re going to pester you. They generally stay in the 2nd cavern, so if you need to snack, do it in the 1st cave.

I would definitely recommend this experience while you’re in KL. In my opinion, it should be near the top of your list of things to see while here. It isn’t everyday you get to have such a great experience with a Hindu god.

I found a Groupon deal that provided a buffet brunch or high tea in the tower’s revolving restaurant, Atmosphere 360º, as well as admission to the Blue Coral Aquarium and Animal Zone at the base of the tower. The tower is a touristic spot, so there are more attractions here than just the observation deck alone. You can also do a pony ride, base jump, and others.

The price of admission to the observation deck is a bit steep at 47 MYR (about $14 USD) for adults and 27 MYR for kids (about $8). If you will be eating at the restaurant, the elevator ride to the top is free. The restaurant is higher than the observation deck.

Aquarium

We began our visit here, and the first thing we absolutely adored after our almost 30-minute walk in KL’s steamy heat was the blast of AC. They have a few nice displays, but with the charge of 28 MYR for adult admission (20 for kids), I really don’t feel it’s worth the price. I took a lot of photos, and we ended up spending maybe 10 minutes. That’s how small it is.

We did see a couple of things we’ve never seen before, and the AC was nice, but that’s all I can really say that’s complimentary.

Animal Zone

Tigger got to have his photo taken with a python for an extra 10 MYR. It was 5 MYR to pet a bird. The conditions for the animals, however, were borderline criminal. Most of the animals were in tiny cages, and they appeared stressed (no wonder!). It was really sad to see them like this. If you haven’t purchased a packet, you’ll pay 20 MYR for adults and 15 for kids.

I’d recommend avoiding it, though. It makes me sad any of my money went to support this place.

Restaurant

We ended up attending  the high tea since a certain almost teenager decided he needed 10-1/2 hours of sleep. The view from the restaurant is really quite good. It slowly revolves, so you are treated to different scenery the whole time. Although, the rotation also means you may end up getting a little more exercise if you decide you want to refill your plate or cup since you will be moving further away from the buffet area for a good part of the time you’re there.

The food selection was decent. Pastries were quite tasty, and it definitely had a Malaysian twist by offering things such as sweet potato or yam fritters.

Staff are friendly, and you can also get other drinks from the bar if you don’t want to restrict yourself to coffee or tea. The ambiance is quite lovely and peaceful and makes sitting at your table while staring at over the sprawling city enjoyable.

Tips for Visiting

The tower is a walk from either the LRT or monorail, so be prepared for that. However, you can grab a taxi from the station and go to the tower for a very reasonable rate. At the bottom of the parking lot, which leads to a steep hill, there is also a free shuttle bus that takes you to the tower. It runs about every 15 minutes and is worth it if you’ve walked up here.

If you don’t want to pay the high prices in the restaurant, there are a few different food counters at the bottom of the tower that are pretty reasonably priced. You’re also not far from a ton of other eateries.

There is an executive and a budget taxi counter at the tower for your return trip should you desire a taxi. These are nice because not only do they call a taxi for you, but you pay them so you don’t have to worry about potentially having to haggle with the driver. They give you a ticket which you give to the driver, and you’re all set.

Final Thought

I was asked today if I felt visiting the tower was worth it. That was really a tough question for me to answer. Basically, the view is quite lovely, and you get to see the Petronas Towers from a very different angle. Is it worth $14? I can’t really say that it is. If you’re doing a package deal or want to have a romantic or special meal in the restaurant, then you’ll get a bit more bang for your buck. Aside from that, I’d say save your money and do one of the other really fun and great activities available in KL.

Ever since I had read about these islands during my days as a novice diver, I have wanted to go there. The Perhentian Islands had been ranked highly for scuba diving. When I was discussing our upcoming visit with the Bohemian Travelers clan in Penang, Malaysia, I had mentioned doing her eldest son’s scuba certification for his 14th birthday. I also convinced her to join him. Penang is not an ideal place for diving, so we discussed the Perhentians, and a plan was hatched.

After finishing the confined portion of their dive training in an incredible pool, they were even more excited about the idea. I could barely wait for the day to arrive! We rented a car since it would end up being cheaper, and a lot easier, than taking a bus.

The ride from the mainland to the islands was rather interesting and, thankfully, easier then the crossing we used to take between Utila and the mainland. Although it was quite a bit more bumpy, and I was relieved that my back didn’t decide to start giving me problems after the journey.

My initial impression of the Perhentians was. . . well, meh.

We’ve lived on plenty of islands throughout the world. Perhaps we’ve become spoiled by it, but to say I was underwhelmed by these islands would be putting it nicely. But, there was diving to be done, so that was promising. And at least our room had air conditioning.

My first introduction to diving on the Perhentians came with our water taxi ride further down the island where the dive center was. That seemed kind of cool, an extra fun piece to the adventure. Until we arrived at the dive shop where we discovered we would have to get out of the boat and walk over a large section of dead coral.

Not knowing this ahead of time, none of us had reef shoes. I swore silently as I carefully walked over the sharp coral hoping I wouldn’t end up with a deep gash in my foot.

We got our equipment together while we waited to find out where we were going. That’s when we discovered we would get to walk back over those same sharp objects while carrying all of our gear, including the heavy tanks. My swearing was about to become less silent.

We boarded the boat, which was no small effort, and headed to our first site. I was so excited to introduce my friends to the underwater world! Tigger snorkeled above while we descended and began our dive. Which is when my heart fell a little.

The coral was very unhealthy and quite probably overdove. We did get to see lots of clownfish, some of which were quite tiny, but apart from them and the overprotective damselfish, the Chihuahuas of the ocean, we didn’t see much interesting sea life.

I was so disappointed! I wanted to wow them! Especially Mary because, well, certain aspects of the training required a lot more . . . effort from both of us. I wanted her to be so amazed that she felt like it had all been worth it. Maybe on the 2nd dive.

We returned to the dive center where I discovered this outfit has an unusual scheduling method. We had to sit around for almost 2 hours until our second dive! The kids took it in stride, and after lunch they went snorkeling.

Walking back to the shop from the boat proved to be even more dangerous in the afternoons when there were other boats anchored in the same area. You often had little room to move around their lines, and twice I almost stepped on the sharp end of an anchor while I stumbled over the coral and rocks.

Our 2nd day of diving wasn’t much better, except this time we knew we’d have a long wait between dives. And, actually, their last dive had some of the worst visibility I’ve been in. (We were there at the tail of the monsoon season up north, and this could have affected visibility.) It was good enough for us to finish the dive, but, once again, there just wasn’t much beyond the occasional sea cucumber and clownfish.

I was so disappointed for them. In spite of it, though, they’re still addicted to scuba.

The rest of our stay in the Perhentians just didn’t do much to change my mind. There was a pretty sunset, but I’ve seen better.

On the way back to Penang, we did get a highly unusual treat, though. We had seen the wild elephant crossing signs plenty of times but hadn’t seen any elephants. As we got closer to our turnoff, though, Mary spotted some! We were all jumping in our seats.

We got a little adrenaline rush when my friend apparently got a little too close for the bull’s comfort, and he began a charge. I was honestly surprised my body could move that fast!

He stopped as soon as we jumped back into the car and stood there with his ears unfolded, waving his head from side to side. Once he was assured we knew our place, the cow and young elephant came back out from the bushes, and we enjoyed some more time watching them.

What a way to end a trip!

My 2 cents

There are much better islands to visit while in Malaysia. Aim for Redang if you still want to be in this region. It’s far less touristed, and the reef is in better shape.

If you do go to the Perhentian Islands, I can’t recommend spending the money to dive there. There are much better spots in Malaysia and nearby Thailand and Indonesia. And if you do go, I’d suggest diving with one of the operations that uses an actual dock.

The nice air-conditioned train ride from the airport to the transportation hub of KL Sentral also sported free WiFi. Not a bad welcome at all.

On our 2nd visit to KL, we traveled by train from Ipoh, another city we really enjoyed. By the time we left, we were seriously considering skipping Songkran festivities in Thailand to stay in Malaysia longer. Since Malaysia gives most visitors an entry stamp for 90 days for free (the best in SE Asia!), it’s an even bigger temptation to stay.

Food

Be honest. You aren’t surprised this is the first category I’m listing, right?

KL is a wonderful place for food lovers. Malaysia is comprised of 3 ethnic groups, and the cultures have intertwined somewhat producing some excellent cuisine. Malay food has some very unique flavors. In fact, it’s the first time I’ve encountered a dessert containing dried shrimp.

Chinese food in Malaysia is quite varied. The descendants of the original immigrants to Malaysia from China are referred to as Nyonya. There are other groups of Chinese who immigrated later, and their food is different from Nyonya food, the latter focusing more on fresh ingredients and combining flavors. There is Chinese food, and then there is Nyonya food. Make sure to try them both.

Because of the Tamil culture, there is lots of Indian food to be discovered in KL. The Tamil are from southern India, and the food is different from most of the Indian cuisine typical Westerners have sampled. Though, you’ll find plenty of that, too. Make sure to try some roti tisu in a mamak.

As this is a large, modern, very commercial city, you’ll also find plenty of Western restaurants in case you need a taste of home. Besides the standard fast food places, you’ll also find restaurants like Chili’s, Pizza Hut, Kenny Rogers Roasters, Baskin-Robbins, and even Godiva chocolate stores. Just don’t expect these to be very cheap. You’ll experience Western prices or higher.

While in KL, I highly recommend taking Food Tour Malaysia’s street food tour. They offer a lunchtime “food walk” tour, but the nighttime street food tour (called “off the eaten track”) gives you cultural insights that shouldn’t be missed. You’ll get to enjoy typical food and drinks from the dominant Malay, Chinese, and Tamil ethnic groups. Just make sure to eat light during the day and wear loose-fitting clothing at night. You’re going to need a lot of extra room. Even my normally very finicky son ate almost everything we were served, including seconds of some of it. I can’t think of a more potent recommendation!

Entertainment

There is so much to do in KL! The following are just a few suggestions. There is really a lot to do in this city.

The iconic Petronas Towers are a sight to behold. At the base of the towers is a large shopping center. Outside this shopping center you’ll find a small lake. It’s really worth visiting the towers at night when they are lit up. In addition to the gorgeous towers, there is a water show that takes place on the lake at night. The water is lit with a variety of colors and dances along with music. It’s really fun to watch and is free. My favorite price!

While you’re at the towers, it’s worth visiting the Petrosains Discovery Centre inside the shopping plaza. Additionally, you can take the underground walkway toward the convention center where you’ll find the Aquaria KLCC. This is one of the better small aquariums I’ve been to. Tigger enjoyed it so much he gave it an 8-9 helicopters out of 10 on his trademarked “toy flying helicopter” rating scale.

It can get quite hot in Asia, and especially so here. Because of the humid heat, you’ll find a lot to do in malls. Including at Berjaya Times Square, a good-sized mall with a New York City theme on some levels. Cruise around the indoor green area of Central Park before taking a trip through Tiny Taipei. But the real fun is upstairs where you’ll find an indoor amusement park, complete with a rollercoaster featuring a 360-degree loop.

And, of course, you’ll also find amazing cinemas featuring plenty of new-release films. Unless it’s a local film, the shows will be in English with Bahasa subtitles. Movie tickets and snacks are incredibly low priced (how does $7 USD sound for 2 tickets with advance-selected seats, 2 large drinks, an order of chicken nuggets, a hotdog, and a bag of popcorn?) and offer some impressive luxury seating arrangements.

Transportation

KL has a really good metro and monorail system which makes getting around the city quite easy. There are also commuter trains leaving from KL Sentral to most of the areas right outside the city limits, and often beyond.

Taxis are metered and easy to hail. Most shopping centers, and of course transportation hubs, have a taxi desk where you pay in advance based on your destination. If you despise having to barter with taxis, you’ll breathe a sigh of relief in KL.

Airport tip: There are a few airports in KL: KLIA is the large, very modern international airport; LCCT is the low-cost carrier terminal which is quite a distance from KLIA; and Sultan Abdul Aziz Shah Airport, which is another low-cost carrier terminal on the other side of town (accessible only by taxi or bus, but taking the train to Sentral first will save you money). Getting to KLIA and the LCCT is pretty easy by commuter train. It’s inexpensive and runs about every 20-minutes during peak times from KL Sentral. If you’re going to LCCT, however, you’ll have to get off the train at the penultimate stop and take a shuttle bus (included in your fare) to that terminal. Generally speaking, you can get from KL Sentral to the LCCT in as little as 45 minutes. Obviously, it’s wise to plan for a longer journey just in case. When deciding between the train or a taxi, make sure to account for KL’s very congested traffic.

Technology

You’ll find free WiFi in almost every establishment. Celcom also has a really great 3G network. Data plans are a bit on the pricey side, so keep that in mind if you’re a heavy user.

Make sure to bring an adapter for plugs. Malaysia has a unique outlet. Don’t worry if you forget to bring one, though. It’s rather easy to find universal adapters, and they’re inexpensive.

Planning

I think people tend to underestimate everything that KL has to offer and don’t plan enough time. We stayed for just over a week, and it really wasn’t enough time. There were still some great places we didn’t get to visit. I’d say give yourself at least a week if at all possible, but 2 weeks would be even better.

Kuala Lumpur just might surprise you, too.

Have you been to KL? What were your impressions?