It was a bit of a tough decision, actually, because many of my friends who had gone there shared that it was like a Belgian Disneyland and very crowded with tourists. Others told me if one went in the afternoon, they would encounter much fewer tourists.

After hemming and hawing, I finally decided that I just couldn’t come to Belgium and not go to Bruges. On weekends, train fares are 50% off, so we decided to go on a Sunday afternoon and hope for the best.

As soon as we got to the medieval part of the city in Bruges, I found myself not caring how touristy it was. Even Tigger really liked it, and she’s a tough critic.

It’s such a romantic place, and I wished we would’ve stayed overnight so I could see it lit up and maybe catch some early morning mists in photos.

One of the most interesting sights in Bruges was the Basilica of the Holy Blood. The exterior is kind of interesting, and because of its unimpressive location we almost missed it. I was curious about the building only because it looked so different than the surrounding edifices.

Inside was a very different story. The baroque style and decorations transport visitors to another time. It’s a very inviting environment, a place you want to sit down in and just absorb the tranquility.

This 12th century basilica is home to a crystal vial containing a bit of cloth with blood on it. It is believed that the cloth had been used to wash the dead body of Jesus and that his blood remains in the fabric. When we were there, we practically had the whole church to ourselves, and we were able to spend as much time looking at the relic as we wanted. It’s interesting to see even if you aren’t a religious or even Christian person.

Near one of the canals, we encountered a flea market. Even though the offerings were from the current time, the surroundings still gave the impression that you were wondering among a medieval market. At least until one of the tour boats on the canal came by and ruined the mood with their yapping through speakers.

Taking side streets was very interesting and also gives you a break from the occasional crowds.

If you go to Belgium, make sure to spend some time in Bruges. While you can see everything in a day, if you can possibly spend a night there I really encourage it.

Have you been to Bruges? What did you think of it?

We began our journey to Brussels from Milan, Italy. Blacklane had offered to work with us again, so we had a couple of private transfers—to the airport in Milan and from the Charlesroi airport in Brussels to our house sit in Brussels. I gotta say it’s so nice to have someone pick you up from your hotel or airport and get you to your location. Especially if you have an early morning flight or are arriving at your destination later in the day.

Since we were arriving a couple of days after the terror attacks, it was even better to have a private transfer as there was a fair amount of chaos at the airport from the enhanced security measures.

Our first impression of Brussels was that for the most part it’s a really clean city. Our place was close to several embassies, the European Union (EU) Council’s headquarters, and the office of the presidency of the EU, so we had lots of sirens (from diplomatic escorts). Other than that, it’s really a pretty quiet place.

We were also located across the street from the grand mosque. While I do enjoy hearing the call to prayer, I don’t enjoy the early morning ones. Thankfully, they don’t broadcast the calls. On one Friday, they did have speakers going outdoors for the worshippers who couldn’t be indoors (due to crowding), and it was enjoyable to hear the prayers. He had a beautiful voice.

For our first few days in Brussels, we were on a mission: Eat frites (Belgian fries are the original ones), chocolate, and waffles, and I wanted to sample some Belgian beers.

Frites were the first things we crossed off our list, and now I totally get the obsession with them. Belgian fries are thick cut, fried for a short time, and are fried again (in beef fat, sorry vegetarians) right before serving. This results in a nice crispy exterior with a soft inside. They are absolutely delicious, and I’m not embarrassed to admit that we had them as meals a couple of times.

Waffles and a little boy peeing

We went to see the iconic Manneken Pis because we had been told the shops around there had good waffles.

The waffles weren’t as impressive to me. They were good, but not a big deal really. During our 3 weeks, we had them prepared in a variety of ways, including with toppings and without. They are made from dough rather than batter, so they are quite a bit more dense than what we usually have in the US.

Don’t plan on eating a meal shortly after one of these.

The famous fountain was a bit of surprise, too. I expected the statue of the little boy to be much taller (it’s about 2 feet tall). They often dress him up in different outfits, and I learned that he actually has over 800 costumes!

There are various legends about why he’s an icon, but my favorite one was that it commemorates the time when someone had taken a little boy to the battlefield. As they engaged the enemy, someone put him up in a tree. As the soldiers advanced, he began peeing on them from the tree. This event led to Belgium’s victory.

Occasionally, they’ll also hook the fountain up to beer kegs and pass around cups of the brew as it . . . is dispensed from the fountain.

The fountain is easy to spot as you approach. Just look for the crowd of people on the corner.

Chocolate and Beer

These experiments were outstanding. I did a bit of beer sampling prior to doing the fabulous chocolate and beer tour, and I’m still trying out Belgian beers from outside the country. They are so darn good!

It seems all of Belgium is quite proud of their chocolate, and I can’t blame them. There is a chocolate shop seemingly on every single corner.  Out of the various places we visited, Frederic Blondeel, was by far the best.

For beer, I’m quite partial to the Trappist ones, but there are so many incredibly good ones. You could probably drink a beer daily for over a year and still not have tried all the various brands.

Beer branding is often done by the glass. So certain beers are served in specific glasses. Some of them are quite unique, including one that is shaped like an animal’s horn and is served in a special stand to hold it upright. When you think about it, it’s actually a good marketing tool. In a pub if you look around and only see clear glasses being used, you don’t really know which beer people are drinking. This way you can glance across the room and notice who is drinking what in case you’re interested in knowing which beer is more popular.

The Atomium

This is another icon of the city. It definitely has a very unique look to it. It was built as the main pavilion of the World Fair in 1958.  If you visit, you can go inside many of the spheres where there are various exhibits.

We visited as guests, and I’m so glad we didn’t pay for entrance tickets. I hate to say it, but we both felt like it was one of the lamest attractions we’ve ever been to. Tigger said: “If you’re really bored or looking for something kind of relaxed to do, it’s a good place for some history.”

A couple of notes if you decide to go:

• There is a lot of stair climbing. Most of the escalators are only for descending. There is an elevator that goes to all of the floors, but it’s pretty much only used for people with mobility issues.
• They have a sign saying there is free WiFi and visitors are invited to use it to download a free phone app to provide a virtual tour, info, etc. However, the WiFi was worthless. I couldn’t even connect to it. You can download the app in advance from their site, which I recommend doing. According to the information in the Google app store, it does work offline.
• During the summer, you can buy combined tickets that offer entry into the Atomium, as well as a nearby waterpark (have your volume turned down before clicking; they have loud autoplay music).

Grand Place

This location is tourist central, but it’s worth a visit if you like architecture and history. The buildings that surround the square are pretty spectacular. One of the more ornate buildings looks like a cathedral, but it’s actually the historic town hall. The square dates back to the 13th century.

Parc du Cinquantenaire

This is quite a nice park, and it’s home to some interesting sights as well. You can find the Great Mosque which is also the Islamic and Cultural Centre of Belgium.

Toward the center of the park, you’ll find the triumphal arc, the Royal Military Museum (which looked pretty interesting), the AutoWorld Museum, and the Temple of Human Passions (which is only open during the summer).

Palais Royal

This is only open to the public during the summer (late July to early September). If you’re walking around the historic area of Brussels, though, it isn’t a far walk if you just want to see the outside. It’s quite lovely.

Musical Instrument Museum

If you’re a fan of music, I’ve been told by several people that this museum is a great one to visit. You’re given headphones to wear so that when you are looking at different instruments you can hear its music. We didn’t go as Tigger is kind of “over” museums unless they’re extremely hands-on.

Getting Around

Brussels has a good public transportation system. Unfortunately, it isn’t very cheap (almost $2.40 USD per trip at today’s exchange rate). If you want to buy a pass or economic package of tickets, you need the MOBIB card which costs 5 EUR (one-time fee, reusable).

When using the transportation system, keep in mind you have to validate your ticket for each segment of the journey. For example, if you take the metro and transfer to a bus, you’ll need to validate it at the metro station and again as you board the bus.

You can buy a ticket on board the bus, but it’s more expensive, and I’m not sure they give change. I once handed a driver a fiver and asked for 1 ticket (both in French and while holding up my index finger), and he handed me back 2 tickets instead. So if you’re going this route, it’s better to have exact change (2.5€) just in case.

How much time should I plan on staying in Brussels?

This is rare for me to say, especially when it comes to a big city, but 2-3 days is more than enough in my opinion. Most people I know, including Belgians, recommend going to Ghent instead of Brussels. We didn’t make it there, but when even the locals are saying to go elsewhere. . .

Make sure to leave time for at least a day trip to Bruges, though. It’s touristy, but it’s definitely worth it in my opinion. Tigger really liked it as well. I’ll be writing about Bruges separately.

Have you spent time in Brussels? What were your favorite parts?

It ended up being one of the best tours I’ve taken. It’s no wonder they have such a high ranking on TripAdvisor even though they’ve only been in operation for about a year so far. One couple in our group was in Paris, and they took the train to Brussels specifically to do this tour. Another had come to Brussels for just the day and made sure to book this tour.

Yeah, it’s that good.

Belgian Chocolate

What makes this chocolate so special? That’s a tough one to answer simply. It all began in 1857 when Jean Neuhas opened an apothecary in Brussels. He coated his medications in chocolate to make them easier to take. The chocolate was such a hit, they started experimenting and soon the pharmaceuticals were giving way to chocolate products.

Making chocolate is considered a craft and serious art in Belgium and it shows. You can probably find more chocolate shops in an area than any other food product. Stores vary from your basic retail shop decor to feeling like you’ve just stepped into the Cartier of chocolates.

The typical chocolate in Belgium is called a praline. If you’re American, these would be better known as truffles. It’s a chocolate filled with ganache but can also contain liquid, like in a cordial, or a fluffy mixture of ganache, cookies, finely chopped nuts, etc.

I’ve eaten all sorts of chocolates all over the world, and none have been as delicious as the Belgian chocolates.

This is not a chocolate you eat just to feed a craving. Even the smallest chocolate is one you want to slowly savor. The one big bummer is that since the chocolates are made with natural ingredients without added chemicals, preservatives, and so on, it can be hard to get the really good stuff outside of the country because of their short shelf life.

Chocopolis

Are you a vegan or have issues with dairy? This chocolate shop is your friend! The owner has issues with lactose, so his chocolates contain no dairy. Because of this, they also have a longer shelf life (up to 30 days or so), which means they can ship internationally.

I liked their chocolate and was surprised at the creaminess despite containing no dairy. However, it wasn’t one of my favorites.

Frederic Blondeel

This was my favorite! I’ve had so much chocolate in my life, it’s really hard to impress me to the point where I want to buy the whole store. Frederic Blondeel wins my most favorite chocolate ever award. You can see the passion and artistry just looking at the chocolates, but when you take a bite—Oh. My. Gawd.

I went back the next day and bought a bunch, and when I picked up the final piece from the box it was a sad moment.

Aside from the usual flavors might one expect, there were some surprises—green tea matcha (it sounds wrong, but oh it is so right!), passion fruit, chocolate with jasmine flowers, ginger, and so many more. We also sampled chocolate from Papua New Guinea (75% cacao), which had very earthy tones and an almost smoky flavor, and Madagascar.

Pierre Marcolini

This chocolatier considers themselves “luxury chocolate.” You definitely get that impression when you walk into their store, too. I felt underdressed and out of place. The chocolate was pretty good, but it isn’t a place I’d go back to on my own.

Méert

This was another chocolate shop where I felt out of place. I don’t think I’ve been to any other chocolatier’s where the staff member running the cashier was wearing a suit and tie. And the velvet ropes outside the door sure set the stage for the experience.

This is also a cafe and tea house, and in addition to chocolates, they sell various other sweets like handcrafted nougats of several different flavors.

This place is a strong #2 for me. They had some incredible flavor combinations that you just never would expect—like yuzu and ginger, which was delightful.

Belgian Beer

After sampling many chocolates, it was time to experience Belgian beer. We went to a few places and tried several beers, so I’m just going to share the ones that left the biggest impression on me.

Lambic

This is a very unique type of beer made in a specific region in Brussels. It is a very interesting mix of flavors which evolve on the palate. Usually the first flavor you notice is fruity, then you get more of the malt or hops flavor. It’s really interesting.

McChouffe

This is a brown beer from the Ardennes region of Belgium. It is refermented in both the bottle and in barrels. This brewery (Brasserie d’Achouffe) has several different types of beers, and I’d be very happy to try their other varieties.

Trappístes Rochefort 8

This was probably my favorite beer that we tried. It’s a dark ale that is quite smooth. It is a Trappist beer, and these beers have some special criteria:

1. It must be brewed inside the walls of a Trappist abbey/monastery.
2. A monk must be involved in the production or supervision of the brewing.
3. After supplying the financial needs for the abbey, proceeds must be donated to charity.

It actually has a legal designation, so a Trappist beer will carry a seal vouching for its authenticity.

This is a beer I would search out in other countries. It was that good.

As is typical of these types of walking tours, you also get a nice dose of history and local culture. We had some interesting stops along the way, including the iconic Manneken Pis, and our guide gave us great information.

If you’re looking for one of the best things to do in Brussels, make sure you add this tour to your list. You won’t be disappointed!

Have you had quality Belgian chocolates and/or beer? Which are your favorites?

I noticed an email from the homeowners for our sit in Brussels in 2 days’ time. She was letting us know that they were okay from the terror attacks and wanted to let us know that if we wanted to cancel the sit they would understand.

When I switched back to Facebook, I now understood why I had so many notifications. Friends knew we were going to be in Brussels soon but weren’t sure of the timing. I had a lot of concerned people checking in on me. Another friend had also private messaged me with a link to a news article about the tragic events.

I had been awake for at least 24 hours by this point, so my concentration wasn’t the best, and this just felt so surreal. I tried to get updated on the situation in the short time we had before our next journey which would take us to the airport we were actually supposed to have landed at. Can you tell I’m still a bit bitter?

But for me there wasn’t a question about whether or not to go to Brussels. I updated Tigger and we both agreed we were still going to Brussels.

Later when updating our friends, some of them were surprised we were still heading to Brussels 2 days after the terror attacks, especially considering the main airport and a busy metro station had been bombed.

 Why go to Brussels 2 days after the terror attacks?

We tend to not get too spooked about these types of situations for a few reasons:

• You can get killed/injured anywhere. A person has a much higher chance of being killed while riding in a car than being victimized in a terrorist attack.  In India, a man was allegedly killed when an object, possibly from space, landed and exploded near him.Then there’s the young man who has been present at 3 separate incidences of terror attacks as a victim (Boston, Paris, and now Brussels). He’s survived all of them, but I can guarantee if I was his friend I would never travel with him. Too much excitement for me.
• After an attack, security is drastically increased and people tend to be more alert. This dramatically reduces the likelihood of a recurrent incident happening in the same city. In Brussels, the main airport was shut down immediately as was the metro. A week later and almost half of the underground system still is not in operation out of extra caution.
• We refuse to live in a culture of fear, especially since it gives these scum exactly what they want.

What is Brussels like after the terror attacks?

I’ve actually been surprised. I expected there to be palpable tension in the air, for most people to be staying indoors as much as possible, for the metro lines to be completely empty, and for there to be a large police and/or military presence everywhere.

None of this has been true.

I recently read a news article about the situation, and I was very irritated by their claim that “Soldiers and military vehicles are parked on nearly every corner.”

This is absolutely and patently false.

We have been here for almost a week so far. We live around the corner from the European Union (EU) Commission headquarters, the office of the EU presidency, the EU personnel building, and several embassies. There is one military vehicle in the region, and that is for the 2 soldiers who stand guard outside the presidency office (and they’re only posted during business hours).

For all I know, they’re staged there normally.

You will find 2 more trucks parked outside the main metro station used commonly by employees and visitors to the various EU offices and buildings in the area.

I’ve walked all over a big portion of the city, and we recently visited the main tourist zone for Brussels as well as a very busy shopping district. We saw 2 military trucks there as well, and they were parked, once again, by the metro.

When we rode the metro, it had only been 3 days since the attacks. I imagine the cars are used to more passengers, but there were definitely plenty of people riding.

There was no tension, no obvious fear. When a man who appeared to be Muslim boarded the train, I briefly held my breath. I expected him to be taunted, jeered at, even threatened, but people barely gave him a glance. When he sat down, no one moved away from him. Unlike recent scenes in the US, no one insisted he open his bag.

He was just like every other passenger that day.

We also live across the street from the grand mosque. We walked by the mosque on Friday, the first big day of worship since the terror attacks. There were no protesters, no one yelling at people entering or exiting the mosque, and no police. The only thing that indicated that day might be a bit different was the presence of a few TV crews.

The mosque is in the corner of a large park. Since the day we got here, the park has been full of people. Children play, runners go by, dogs chase each other. It’s like any other day.

If it wasn’t for a few makeshift memorials by the still-closed bombed metro station, an otherwise uninformed person would have no idea something so horrible had happened here.

Belgian flags fly everywhere in solidarity, including from the mosque.

There has been a slight inconvenience in terms of the metro system not being fully functional, and it has affected national and international trains causing some delays, but the city has employed buses to follow (above ground) the routes the subway would normally provide. The system does shut down earlier than usual at night.

I know it’s scary when we see these events on the news, and the media often drastically overdramatizes the after effects, but I encourage people to still visit the places that have experienced these types of terror attacks. Not only is it probably even more safe now, but it’s a great way to give the terrorists the middle finger. Let the bastards know they won’t win.

Have you visited a destination after a terrorist attack? What was your experience?