Bocas del Toro is a province in Panama that comprises a mainland and nine islands, the most popular of which is Isla Colon. The main tourist area on the island is Bocas town, and although it is small enough to see on foot, it also caters to every type of traveler from the water fanatic to the hard-core partier.

Once you arrive on the island, by plane or by boat, travelers can choose from a plethora of sleeping options on the main islands, from serious party hostels, like Mondo Taitu, to secluded and relaxing B&B’s like the Dolphin Bay Hideaway. Once settled, water aficionados can either check out the many scuba diving locales on the island or take a quick $1 USD water taxi ride over to Isla Carenero to rent a board from Bibi’s On the Beach and go surfing.

In terms of scuba diving, my preferred choice would be Starfleet Scuba, as I spent three months diving with Starfleet while completing my divemaster certification. Situated right on the water, Starfleet is perfect for certified divers who want to explore the Bocas waters or travelers who wish to complete a PADI open water certification. Their receptionist, Nilvia, is also one of the nicest people you will ever meet.

Another great dive locale is Bocas Dive Center, which was opened in 2012 by a former Starfleet instructor. This dive center is quickly becoming one of the best diving schools on the island primarily due to its amazing owner, Eddie Ibarra. Eddie is the first Panamanian PADI course director and has over 15 years of diving experience under his belt. He is by far one of the most knowledgeable PADI instructors I have had the privilege to meet in my diving career.

During the summer months, December to April, Bocas town is also known as one of the best surfing spots in Central America, boasting some of the best waves and variety of breaks in the Caribbean. Along with Bibi’s, there are a variety of places where individuals can either rent surf boards or take day trips to the best surf locations. Bibi’s is particularly popular due to its restaurant where travelers can enjoy fresh, locally caught seafood and happy hour drinks after a tiring day of surfing. However, a word of caution: The beach located near Bibi’s is known for its chitras (sand flies) so make sure you spray yourself with bug spray before heading over to the island.

If sports aren’t your thing, then Bocas has many beautiful beaches where you can enjoy an ice cold Balboa while lounging in the sun. The most interesting of these beaches is arguably Starfish Beach, known for its large number of starfish that gather near the shore to feed. Those looking for an adventure can rent a bike ($7-10 per day) and bike the 18 kilometers to Boca del Drago (Starfish Beach) or take a colectivo (bus) that will pick you up at Central Park for $2.50 USD each way. Other great beaches can be found on Red Frog Island and Isla Zapatilla.

Hopefully, diving, surfing, and/or beach lounging won’t tire you out because once the sun goes down Bocas knows how to throw one hell of a party. This town never sleeps. There is a party every single day. If you don’t feel like pre-drinking in your hostel, then head over to Mondo Taitu for their 7-8 p.m. happy hour where beers are 50 cents and mixed drinks are $1.50.

Then it’s off to the bar. Mondays and Thursdays are ladies’ night at the Iguana Bar, which means that ladies drink for free before 11 p.m. Aqua Lounge, located on Isla Carenero, is the place to be on Wednesdays and Saturdays. For a more local experience, Barco Hundido (translated: the sunken ship) is great for its drink specials and a variety of music, playing everything from salsa to dance to Panamanian music.

Last but not least, if you are itching to do some good while abroad, then why not volunteer at Floating Doctors. I was first introduced to Floating Doctors when a volunteer came to Starfleet to complete their open water certification. We finished up the class, and the volunteer told me that their door was always open if I ever needed anything. A week later, after some intense scratching (damn chitras!), the bug bites on my legs became infected. The local hospital refused to give me what I needed without a plethora of unnecessary tests.

Frantic and desperate, I took a water taxi to the Floating Doctors boat where I was treated by an American doctor. We chatted a little bit, and I fell in love with their cause: providing free acute and preventative health care services and delivering donated medical supplies to isolated areas in the Bocas del Toro region. For more information about the Floating Doctors and how you can volunteer, click here.

In the end, it’s hard not to fall in love with Bocas del Toro. It is the kind of place that mesmerizes you and makes you change all your plans. It is also the perfect place to sit back and forget all your troubles—Hakuna Mata!

Yvonne Ivanescu is the founder of Now in Rio, a resource and community for individuals that are eager to travel to Rio de Janeiro. She is the host of the Branding Lab Podcast, an avid scuba diver, ocean-lover, and the founder of Now in Rio Swimwear, a sustainable and ethical swimwear company. For more information about branding, sustainability, or Rio de Janeiro travel tips, make sure to follow her on her Instagram page.

Lodging:  Prices really vary on the tiny island town; however, the absolute best price I found was at Hotel La Canoa, right across from the taxi and tourist info stand in front of the lake, just to the left as you come off the bridge from Santa Elena.  If Santa Elena doesn’t make you nervous (it isn’t safe to walk around at night reportedly), there are some decent accommodations with a little bit more in the way of amenities and for less of a price than the more resort-like hotels on the island.

ATMs:  There are at least 2 ATMs that are easy to get to.  One is located in the only supermarket on the island and the other is located just down the street from the supermarket.  Look for the cajero automatico or cajero electronico signs as the ATM is located inside a small room with a door.  If these make you a bit nervous, cross the bridge to Santa Elena.  On the other side, on the left hand side, is a small mall with a couple of banks that have ATMs attached, and with an armed guard, and there is also another one located in the grocery store inside the mall.  VERY few businesses accept credit cards, so it’s always best to have cash on hand.

Food:  There are a LOT of fairly inexpensive places in Flores; however, your absolute best finds will be up the hill (head towards the church in the center of the island).  Around the plaza are various vendors where you can get combos that include a healthy amount of food and a drink for $2 USD or less.  And it tastes pretty darn good as well.  You’ll have to sit on a bench or on the side of a wall, but it’s a small price to pay for saving a LOT of money.  Just over the bridge are some decent choices as well.  For breakfast our favorite place was a bit nondescript.  Take the 2nd ring road toward the bridge.  Right before the road curves to lead back up the hill, you will notice some white buildings on your right.  In the morning they serve some very good breakfasts at great prices.  Walk through the open door and into the courtyard where you see the family’s hammocks hanging.  Someone will greet you and lead you to a table.  It isn’t fancy fare, but it’s good and cheap, which is a nice combination in my opinion.  The family is extremely nice as well.  When the food is good, I especially enjoy eating at these types of places because I’d rather be helping out a family than some fat cat who owns more than one of the local businesses.

If you’re looking for a refreshing dessert, stop by one of the Sarita ice cream shops.  They have some great deals on sundaes.  My favorite was the button-busting La Bomba:  3 scoops of ice cream, fruit, syrups, whipped cream, and a wafer cookie, for just over $2.

Nearby attractions:  Go for a walk, or take a tuk-tuk, into Santa Elena and enjoy the daily market.  It’s a great way to see the local culture and to get some local food.  Also very worth the trip is the Petencito Zoo.  The zoo is located on another small island on the lake.  Grab one of the lanchas (motorized canoes) anywhere along the malecon.  They will take you there, wait, and then bring you back for about $15 per boat (accommodates up to 8 people).  Admission to the zoo is about $3 per person, less for children.  One of our favorite parts about the zoo was the spider monkey exhibit.  The monkeys come up to the fence and put their paws and tails through desiring human touch.  You can stand there and just hold their paw.  It’s really an amazing experience.  The ones that can’t reach you with their paws will curl their tail around your wrist or forearm.  Sometimes the babies come over with a leaf in their mouth.

Make sure to bring some good shoes, however.  Part of the zoo is accessed through a nice hike through the woods, and some of the trails aren’t always that clean so you may feel like you’re a trail blazer as you clamber through the undergrowth.

There are some very cool small towns located around the lake.  They are all reachable by either lancha or by taking one of the colectivo mini buses (the cheapest way of getting there but also the slowest) or hiring a taxi.  They’re too far for the tuk-tuks.

The lancha pilots will also try to sell you on other trips around the lake besides the zoo.  The prices really aren’t that bad, especially since it isn’t per person.  Stops can include the watchtower which affords view over the entire huge lake, a nice sandy beach for swimming and sunbathing, and, of course, the zoo.

Along the malecon you will see several docks jutting into the lake.  This is where locals and tourists alike come to go swimming in the refreshing lake.  The color of the water may put some people off, but it’s actually quite clean.  We spent a week in Flores and were in the lake every single day.  It’s a great temperature for cooling you off but without freezing you in the process.  It’s also a great way to get to mingle with locals, and if you’ve brought children along they’ll enjoy the lake and playing with the other kids who also enjoy practicting their limited English skills from time to time.  You will notice a small island in the middle of the lake.  This is a museum.

If you’re planning a longer visit to Flores, I’d recommend giving yourself at least 4 days to really get to absorb the culture and find all the little hole-in-the-wall places.  We could’ve easily stayed longer than a week.

The stone indicating “Lord Chocolate” was the ruler

During a friend’s recent visit to Guatemala, he was planning on going to Tikal.  I was going to send him a link to my tips on visiting the ancient Mayan ruins, which we did on my birthday last year, only to discover that I had, in fact, never written about our visit there!  I decided that needed to be rectified post haste!

Tikal, a UNESCO World Heritage Site,  is one of the largest pre-Columbian Mayan sites to have been studied thus far.  That’s saying something since they continue to find other Mayan sites throughout the jungles of Guatemala and the Yucatan.  Ah Cacao (aka Lord Chocolate) was its longest ruler and brought it to the heights of its prosperity.  One of the many amazing things about this site is how much is still uncovered.  When walking throughout the park you will see small hills that look out of place.  Beneath the greenery are buildings that have yet to be reclaimed from the surrounding jungle.  Apparently the entire area had been clear-cut by its inhabitants in order to build the vast city.  Interestingly this is also the basis of one of the many theories as to what led to its eventual abandonment.  But over the centuries the jungle has crept back in, and with it wildlife meaning that one has to watch out for monkey poop when walking around the site, one of Tigger’s fondest memories.  That’s okay since it also means you’ll probably get to enjoy sightings of howler monkeys up in the trees above you.  And thankfully they aren’t the type of primate that seems to enjoy flinging their feces at humans.

See the baby hanging on its mother’s back?

I’m going to be writing about Flores, the island town that Tikal visitors use as their jumping off point, in a separate post so will leave those tips for that article.  To get to Tikal ask your hotel to set up a shuttle.  This usually costs $8 per person and is cheaper than using the many tour vendors found throughout the island.  The shuttle includes a tour guide for the most important parts of the site.  You can always hire him or a different one if you want a guide for the longer term, but we didn’t really find it necessary. The price of admission will set you back a bit, though, at about $20 USD per person (discount for kids and senior citizens), but I’d say it’s worth it.

There are several temples worth a visit, and most of them are pretty close to each other.  However, if you tend to get tired easily or like me have uncooperative joints, I would suggest you get to Temple IV as quickly as possible.  Why?  Because there are a set of wooden steps leading up the side of the temple that will take you to the top.  This is the tallest structure in the park, and the view is so worth the climb.  Especially when you consider that during Tikal’s time only the ruler and the priests were allowed to get to this point.

Many of the other structures are easy to explore as well.  I really liked that you can climb most of the buildings there.  Makes it more fun for the kids, which makes it more fun for the parents.  Especially the shutterbug ones.  I hear much less groaning and “You’re taking ANOTHER picture?” when he can keep himself busy climbing the buildings and chasing iguanas.

There are some food and drinks vendors in the park.  You can also bring your own food, but it’s worth getting drinks there since they’re cold, and, well, you’re in the jungle.  And because of that make sure you do whatever you normally do for mosquito bite protection.  It’s quite easy to spend an entire day there. Or longer.

Another cool thing about this park is that you can camp there, which means a visit during the full moon or watching the sunrise from the ruins is completely doable.  There are also 3 hotels located at Tikal, going from about mid range to fairly luxurious in prices and amenities.

Next up I’ll post some tips about visiting Flores.  It has a lot of hidden charm.  In fact we ended up staying there for a week and actually started looking at places to rent for a longer stay.

We’ve had some minor prep work to do such as buying Tigger shoes. He hasn’t worn footwear in a LONG time, unless you count booties for his fins when he goes diving. We also do not own a pair of pants. Nighttime temps on Utila are around 23-24 degrees, in Bogota 9. Needless to say shorts and thin T-shirts aren’t going to be very helpful there. Tigger is also used to the laid-back Caribbean style. When at a restaurant he’s usually free to walk into the kitchen, climb the building columns, make forts of throw pillows, etc. That kind of thing doesn’t fly many other places, so he is in for a bigger amount of culture shock than even me.

Here are just some of the things I will miss about Utila:

• Diving! Duh! I have been in the water almost every day in the last 8 months.  I’m going to miss that big time!
• The aformentioned island lifestyle and attitude.
• The safety.  Utila is one of the safest places in the world. Tigger has had unparalleled independence here.  He has basically free rein of the entire island.  There aren’t many places in the world where I could let him have the run of the place at any time of the day or night and not worry.  He has developed a level of resourcefulness that I don’t think would’ve happened in any other situation.
• The people. Okay most of the people, especially the locals.  Utilians are a tough breed.  While the UNN (Utila News Network, aka every local) is the fastest communication system in the land, they generally have a “let live” attitude. If you aren’t hurting anyone else, then you’re good.  Hurt someone and. . . get a quick boat out of here.  They’re an awesome people.
• The sound of trash talking and domino slamming as I walk past a local hangout every day.
• The sound of the Utilian (what some foreigners refer to as Caribbean English) accent.
• The way the island suddenly springs to life with a fury of activity when the supply boat comes twice a week.
• Feeling like a local even though we were here less than a year.
• How I can pretty much walk to any place on the island in almost 30 minutes or less.

What won’t I miss?

• Sand flies.  Those little suckers pack a mean bite.
• Lack of decent produce.  I don’t know why it’s so hard to get good produce on a tropical island, but it just is here.

Surprised at how short the last list was? Well, Utila really is an amazing place.  Sure it has its little quirks, but that’s been endearing. It also helps separate the people who can’t hack small island life from the people who adore it.  Most of the people you talk to who are transplants here, or temporary transplants, stay because they like it not because they’re “stuck.”

Bottom line:  If you’re considering coming to Honduras at any point, make sure you give Utila a visit.  Just do yourself a favor and don’t set a departure date.  “I’m leaving tomorrow” is one of the most hilarious statements we hear.

Tigger and I were enjoying an afternoon snorkel around the dock at the dive shop where I work.  We have a seahorse that tends to hang out at the nearby docks, and we went to go find it.  After striking out we turned around to head back when I suddenly noted motion near my face.  To my surprise it was a rather large green moray eel, its mouth opening and closing inches from my face.  We were in extremely shallow water and with nowhere for it to hide which made this even more surprising.  I quickly backed away and put one of my fins between us.  The eel swam away and I continued to watch it.  It was acting extremely bizarre, swimming to the surface and sticking its head out of the water then swimming around some more.  It came close to me two more times before it suddenly swam to the bottom and lay in the sea grass.  A few seconds later it was swimming erratically again, and then it would faceplant into the grass.  Finally it just lay there.  I told Tigger I thought it was dying.  And then I waited.

I’ve spent the last several years, before beginning our nomad existence, working with the dying and their families. It’s rare that I ever feel completely helpless at a death.  I view death as a sacred, beautiful time that I am blessed to be a part of, in spite of the sadness it often generates for the loved ones.  I am able to be a comforting presence in a time of turmoil, a seed of peace in a maelstrom of chaos. But this time I felt completely helpless.  A dying person reaching out can often be comforted by simply holding their hand.  I can’t go over and stroke an almost 2-meter green moray eel and be assured I’ll still have a functional hand.  I can’t speak to it softly and tell it it is loved, that it’s okay to continue their Journey.  Often at a death I will send out loving energy and visualize them completely wrapped in an aura of peace and love.  Would it work for a moray?

As I watched it seemingly gasping, I was taken back to an animal hospital room where just over a year ago I was stroking my precious little Pepe and telling him how much he was loved and what a good boy he was as I watched the light leave his eyes.  He looked at me with so much trust in his eyes that I was forced to question if I had made the right decision.  But this would be little help to the moray.

I remained as I’ve done so many times before.  I moved further away unsure if my presence would add to its stress, and then I watched as its breathing slowed further and then finally stopped.  Then I finally exited the water.  The experience stayed with me for days.  Even when Pepe was being put to sleep, I didn’t feel helpless.  I could comfort him.  I could tell he felt my love.  But this time what I could possibly do?  That feeling was something so foreign to me. I’ve embraced it, but the experience has remained with me.

Have you ever had a time where you felt completely helpless? What did you do?

Roatan is a very popular tourist destination, and the fact that it has a decent international airport (RTB) doesn’t hurt that at all.  There are direct flights going there from Canada and the US as well as other countries.  In addition, Roatan boasts a fairly busy cruise ship terminal.  It is the largest of the Bay Islands.  There is public transportation as well as a very handy taxi colectivo system.  Taxis are expensive getting from the airport or cruise ship terminal, but otherwise getting around the island can be done for fairly reasonable prices.  If you pick up the free tourist map, they even have the colectivo prices listed which makes things rather nice.

Food, like most things, is more expensive on Roatan, but you will also find a much greater variety than on Utila.  They also boast a couple of grocery stores offering American products like Ben & Jerry’s ice cream, Lindt chocolates, and so on.  If you’re on a short vacation, this probably doesn’t matter to you, but if you’ve been traveling for a long time some Ben & Jerry’s or some good chocolate just hits the right spot.  We also enjoyed the Chinese restaurant near the big, well-stocked grocery store Eldon’s.

Activities are in abundance, especially if you enjoy tourism faves like ziplining, canopy tours, and horseback riding.  Naturally scuba diving is a favorite, and Roatan has a truly awesome shark dive that is quite affordable.  In addition, Roatan is home to one of the very few private submarines in the world.  For a healthy sum of money you can ride in the submarine down to depths of 3000 meters.

View from our balcony at Casa del Sol

On the flip side, Roatan is tourist central.  Cruise ship passengers are all over the island.  Most restaurant menus don’t even bother listing prices in Honduran lempiras but use US dollars instead.  The wide gap between the poor and the wealthy is a yawning chasm.  A recent visitor to Utila went to Roatan and then immediately came back stating that it reminded her too much of Pensacola, Florida:  “I kept waiting to see my mother come around the corner wearing a sundress.”

Utila is much less developed and smaller.  Here cars are a rarity.  Most traffic is pedestrian, bicycle, or scooters.  There are no McMansions.  While there is a lot of tourism on Utila, it is mostly diving related and tends to attract a MUCH different type of traveler than nearby Roatan.  Utila seems to be content that it has more restaurants than it did a few years ago, and even better that it has 24-hour electricity, but it doesn’t seem to want to be another Roatan or other cruise ship magnet.

You can walk from one end of the town to the other end of the island in about 45 minutes.  If you don’t want to, though, there are some tuk-tuks that will gladly cart you around the island, usually for about $1.50 per person.  Spend any amount of time here, and you’ll quickly know the names of a large amount of the island’s inhabitants, expat and local alike.

While there are some good restaurants here, you won’t find haute cuisine.  You won’t find “good shopping” here either.  In fact it’s pretty darn limited sometimes.  You also won’t find white sandy beaches with attractive Latin Americans bringing you cold drinks as you relax in your chaise.  At least the beer you can buy at the private beach will be cold.

Roatan's ferry feels like sweet luxury

I will give Roatan a slight edge on Utila with its diving, however.  They have stronger currents if you like drift diving.  Because of the regional shark creche, they have a really fun shark dive (just contact any local dive shop and request a reservation).  Their marine preserve is larger, and as the island’s economy is more and more focused on tourism it has helped avoid overfishing of the reefs so that fish are more abundant and larger than at many of Utila’s dive sites.  They have more large wrecks than Utila as well.  I’ll say they win in this category by a very slim margin.

In the end it comes down to what type of travel style you like.  If you want to be in another country but not too far away from the comforts and conveniences of home, like running hot water, then Roatan is your place.  If you prefer a laid back, small island community experience, then you’ll want to come to Utila.  On a tight budget? Utila is your choice again.

Shopping:  Give up on “good shopping.” There are no malls or big stores here.  Delco is the island’s version of Walmart.  You’ll find it heading down Main Street as if you were headed to the public beach.  It’s just a short distance past Parrot’s Dive Center on the left side of the street.  For groceries you have several choices.  Mermaid’s (yes, it’s a grocery store as well) is smaller and also cheaper than most of the stores.  For some reason I also have the best luck with finding good fruits here.  They’re closed from Friday night until Saturday night.  Bush’s is much larger and more expensive, but they are also where you find the most variety, including the bag of mixed greens.  They’ll also process a cash advance on your credit card for you.  They open earlier than most of the other stores and also close earlier.  Just down the street across from Babalu’s is  Tienda Javier.  They have a decent selection of food items at fairly good prices.  Tienda del Pueblo down near Munchie’s supposedly is the best place to buy meat.  I haven’t really bought a lot of meat other than lunch meat so can’t say yes or no. At many of the stores you can put down a deposit for a 5-gallon container of purified drinking water and then bring it back for a fresh one for only L40 (about $2).  You’ll get your deposit back when you’re done switching out bottles.  A gallon is usually around L25, so you’ll save quite a bit of money going the 5-gallon route.  If you’re rather discerning about your toiletries and hair care products, I have been advised by several people that Rivera’s by the bank is the best place for those items.

If you’re coming through on the holidays and think you might want to have a nice ham or turkey for dinner, do yourself a HUGE favor and stop at a grocery store in La Ceiba.  I bought our Chrismakah turkey there and saved about 50% from the turkeys on sale at Bush’s (which cost about $48).

Cell phones:  Utila is interesting.  Apparently you are required to show a Honduran ID to purchase a SIM card on the island.  This can be circumvented in a few ways.  You can go to the other Rivera’s down near the fire station.  You’ll pay quite a bit more here than on the mainland, but you won’t be asked for an ID either.  If you want to go to the cheaper phone store near el centro, you can also swing by the little red shack next to La Cueva where Mr. Henderson will loan you his ID card.  Yes, it has to be a Honduran ID card but not necessarily yours.  The easiest, in my opinion, and by far cheapest route is to stop at the mall in La Ceiba before you come to Utila and go to one of the cell phone stores there.  You may be asked to show your passport.  I bought Tigger a phone there, and it was $15 cheaper (yes that’s USD) than what I could find on the island.  And that was for the most basic phone they had.  If you are bringing your own phone, know that for some reason even some unlocked phones that should work on the network here don’t, so you may have to buy a cheap phone if you really want to have mobile access.  You should try the SIM card in the phone before you buy it since it may not work.  I’ve used my Honduran phone to call the States more than once, and the rates are actually quite good.  That is for a pay-as-you-go phone system, and you can buy minutes at practically any store on the island.  Tigo and Claro are the biggest companies servicing the island.  From what I’ve been told Tigo’s signal seems to be better around the island than Claro.  If you get Tigo they usually run a triple saldo special on Thursdays meaning that if you reload your phone with L100 they’ll pretend you paid L300.  You can expect to get at least 3 free text messages from Tigo a day with various offers.  Yes, it’s irritating, but at least you aren’t charged for them.

Visas:  When you came into Honduras, you probably were given 90 days.  If you’ve done research you are familiar with the CA-4 region which says you can only spend 90 days within the 4 Central American countries comprising Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador, and Nicaragua.  Well, here’s a treat for you:  Guatemala and Honduras really don’t care how long you stay as long as you are here on a current visa.  Don’t relish the idea of having to take the vomit comet back to the mainland and take a bunch of buses to do a border crossing? No problem!  Just pop into the friendly immigration office by the ferry dock and tell them you’d like to stay in their wonderful country longer and ask if they can help you out.  You can extend another month for relatively cheap, but then you’ll have to do a visa run to stay longer.  OR you can pay the nice young man L3000 and later that day, or the next, you’ll be able to return to pick up your passport with its nice new 90-day stamp.

Medical care & meds:  If you already take prescription meds and may need a refill, again stop in La Ceiba at one of the big pharmacies there.  You’ll save a LOT of money and have a better chance of finding it there.  There are 2 main pharmacies on the island, but they often are fairly limited in what they sell. Dr. Jennifer next to Buccaneer’s at her clinic La Fe has some pharmaceuticals as does the Centro de Salud up the hill from the crossroads.  The pharmacy near the bank is able to process things like stool samples should you develop a relentless intestinal issue.  If you need medical care, there are a few options.  If it’s something potentially serious, then your best bet is to go to the Community Clinic across from the Methodist church.  This is the clinic with the American doctor known as Dr. John.  Be prepared, though. You won’t get a well-groomed man in a nice, crisp white lab coat and a stethoscope draped about his neck.  Instead you’ll get a guy with long stringy hair wearing camo shorts, hopefully a shirt, and probably no shoes with an. . . . interesting bedside manner.  He’s quite the character, but islanders, locals and expats alike, swear by him.  If it’s less serious the other options include the Spanish-speaking Centro de Salud.  If you’re sick enough to want to go see them, you’ll probably want to take a tuk-tuk.  It’s quite the walk uphill otherwise.  They usually charge around L150 for a visit.  Dr. Jennifer is a sweet lady who is much more accessible but also more expensive.  She charges L400 for a consult (L350 for scuba medical exams).  If you need basic stuff like antibiotics, many of the grocery and convenience stores carry a supply.  Just ask at the cash register, and they’ll show you what they have.  One tip: If you by ibuprofen in the blister park, double check the dosing.  They typically are 600-mg tablets instead of the more common 200 mg in the States.

An occasional hazard on the nearby airport landing strip

Dental:  Honduras has very good dental care.  On Utila there are a few options.  There is a dentist located in the large building across the municipal center (where you come off the ferry), but I don’t know anything about them really.  Another option is Dra. de Ricard across from Bambino’s grocery store, but I would not recommend her.  She has an unusual affinity for simply pulling a tooth.  If you get her to try to do a filling, you’ll probably discover why she prefers pulling them.  If you have an emergency and the other dentist isn’t available, she’d be worth the visit to get the situation calmed down until you can get to La Ceiba, but don’t let her drill your tooth.  For anything more involved, get to the mainland and see Dr. Florencia Portillo de Ponce.  All the expats I’ve spoken with swear by her.

Have questions I didn’t answer by now? Feel free to comment here, and I’ll do my best to answer them for you.

Dive Resorts:  I’ve been to both Laguna Beach Resort and Coral View Beach Resort and Dive Center and would recommend either one. I have also heard good things about Deep Blue [Disclaimer:  Deep Blue is a sister company of the dive shop where I work, but they do not know I’m doing this post] and Utopia.  Utila is also home to the live-aboard Utila Aggressor.  I enjoyed a nice tour of their ship and must say if it was in my budget range, I’d jump at the chance to go diving with them.

Tigger at the helm of the Utila Aggressor II

Dive Centers:  One thing you won’t find in short supply is a place that offers diving and dive courses.  While most offer great quality, there are some that stand out more in my mind.  I only recommend places that I would send a loved one to.   I’m listing them in alphabetical order, not in order of preference:

• Alton’s Dive Center:  This is a nice, busy shop right before the bridge. They are also home of the famous Booze Cruise complete with a disco ball on their boat.  Their instructors and divemasters are all passionate about what they do, and you’ll be in good hands.  It is kid and dog friendly and located in a quiet part of the island, though it sports its own nightlife right on the premises.
• Coral View Beach Resort and Dive Center:  If quiet and secluded is your speed, this is your top choice.  It is about a 15-minute walk from the town center and surrounded by residences.  It has some of the best snorkeling and shore diving on the island.  They also have a large salt water pool. Their instructors and dive staff are quite excellent, very friendly, well organized and will make sure you have a great time AND stay safe.  They are very kid friendly.  In fact I did my instructor training here, and they even made Tigger a “man cave” complete with TV, DVD, and a Wii so he would be busy and we could spend time together during breaks, etc., since the program was for 8 hours a day for 10 days straight.
• Deep Blue Divers:  This is a small shop that is very laid back.  You are close enough to restaurants, grocery stores, and nightlife but far enough from them that you’ll be able to get to sleep at night.  Staff are all professional and fun.  They are also dog and kid friendly.  There is also a resident cat named Trouble who is one of the most spoiled cats I’ve encountered.  [Disclaimer:  I currently work for Deep Blue Divers as a dive instructor, although they do not know I’m doing this post and have had no input on my comments.]
• Underwater Vision:  This is a larger dive shop that attracts a younger crowd and also people who enjoy a dive center with a vibrant social life.  Accommodations range from cheap dorms to private honeymoon-type suites.  Especially if you enjoy playing pool or volleyball.  Again, they have excellent staff who will ensure you have fun and a great time.

• Blackish Point:  These are a group of caverns with natural skylights on the popular north side of the island.
• Black Hills:  This is a sea mound with abundant sea life.  Recently one lucky group of divers had a whale shark swim over their heads while there.  It is a popular site with these docile sharks, so most trips out there also include a search for whale sharks if they’ve been spotted in the area (usually March and April).
• Pinnacle:  There is a nice swim-through called the chimney that is a popular dive for the more adventurous.  The entry is at about 36 meters, and it’s a nice short swim.
• Paraiso:  This is a beautiful spot with huge amounts of fish, both small creatures and larger ones.
• Airport Caves:  Another great site with some swim-throughs and small caverns.  There are often schools of very tiny fish in these areas, and if you just sit still you’ll get to become part of their school.  It’s also a great site for night diving and can be accessed as a shore dive.
• Black Coral Wall:  There are some very dramatic, amazing walls here, as well as some of the namesake rare black coral which used to be used as currency.
• Halliburton wreck:  This was an intentional wreck.  The visibility from the surface is often limited which makes for a fun descent.  As you follow the mooring line down the wreck slowly materializes beneath you.  I’ve been there probably 50 times at least and love it every time.   As you descend down the tower at the stern of the boat, if you follow it down to the starboard (right) side, you’ll find a skeleton of a baby pilot whale.  It’s a unique sight.  Around the wheelhouse you’ll find different items that have been left behind by divers.  It’s a tradition that if you’ve spent time on Utila, you leave something behind on the Halliburton before you leave. It’s interesting to see what some people have left.

Comida tipica:  This is your typical find in Honduras, other than fried chicken.  Baleadas are very popular (tortilla with refried beans, cheese, and anything else you’d like to add folded over and eaten with your hands).  My favorite place closed down unfortunately.  However, other good places for baleadas are: Thompson’s Bakery (up the hill from the crossroads), the baleada lady who is sometimes found in front of Main Street Bar (aka The Casino), Lidia’s, and Blue Shore Cafe (found at the Deep Blue Divers shop).  Others really like Doña Rosa’s.  I got sick after eating there as have several other people I know, but then again I know others who have eaten there a few times a week for years with absolutely no problem whatsoever.  My favorite comida tipica place is Thompson’s Bakery.  They serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner there.  The jonnicakes (kind of like a fried egg sandwich served in a wonderful coco bread biscuit) are good, and if you’re there when the cinnamon rolls are fresh THEY ARE SO GOOD!

Fast food (not that type):  You just got off the vomit comet after hours of traveling and you’re so hungry you’re about to gnaw your travel companion’s arm off.  Eating a bean-laced thick tortilla doesn’t sound appealing to you?  Head right over to Mermaid’s (turn right at the crossroads [the intersection after exiting the ferry] and walk for about 3 minutes).  The food is served cafeteria style, although you can order off their menu as well, but it’s actually pretty decent and inexpensive.  Tip:  Thursday night is 2-for-1 pizza night, but their pizza is super bland. Also they are closed from Friday at sundown to Saturday at sundown (they’re Seventh-Day Adventist).  If you’re not quite THAT hungry but still don’t want to wait around, just to the side of Captain Morgan’s is a little stand that sells pastelitos (basically meat-filled empanadas) that are pretty cheap.  Doña Rosa’s also has good pastelitos, but see previous comment.

Pizza:  There are a few options on the island.  But if you want good pizza you really only have 2 choices.  For super thin crust, and I DO mean thin, go to Pizza Nut, about 3 minutes past Mermaid’s.  They are only open after 5 PM.  It’s pricier than Mermaid’s but tastes WAY better.  Your best option is Skidrow’s.  Yes, the name sounds awful, and when you see the building you’ll probably challenge my judgment.  Trust me.  A friend from Chicago said their pizza rivals some of the best pizza he’s ever had.  Their pizza really is damn good.  They recently started serving calzones, and I’m hooked. I like those even more than their pizza.  While there consider sharing jalapeño poppers.  They are ginormous and extremely good.  They also have free WiFi, and if you don’t want to miss out on American football games, basketball, or hockey, this is the place to be.  While there consider earning yourself a Skidrow T-shirt by drinking 4 shots of the local herbal-infused rum called Giffity (and spelled numerous ways).

Steak:  The best places are La Piccola’s and RJ’s (only open Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday nights).  I have heard good reviews of Driftwood which imports their beef from the States reportedly; however, I’m not sure they’re worth the long walk.  The last few times I’ve been there they’ve had their kitchen closed for some random reason, and you definitely pay a premium for that imported meat.  RJ’s is less expensive and has wonderful portion sizes. You won’t leave there hungry.

Seafood:  RJ’s is in top position for this one.  Not only is their fish excellent, portion sizes are large, and it’s cooked to perfection, but they only buy the fish from fishermen who use sustainable practices, i.e., don’t fish off the reefs.  You’ll find it just before the bridge, right across from Alton’s Dive Centre.  They are open for dinner on Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday.  If you want a little more unique experience, stop at Babalu’s.  The fish is a bit overcooked, but they have a decent selection and an unusual setting.  Their rum punch is quite tasty, too.  Get the outdoor seating for some great sunset views or enjoy watching the fish from their floor “aquarium.”  Don’t be surprised if you spy the occasional ray or octopus going through.  If you like tuna, Main Street is another good option.  They have wonderful sauces, and their tuna is usually cooked so it’s still a little pink in the center.  They also have good portion sizes, and since they’re upstairs you don’t have issues with sand flies.

Ethnic:  The best in this category, and the best restaurant on the island in my opinion, is Indian Wok.  They serve Asian-inspired food and are also your best bet if you or your friends are vegetarian.  No worries, they have great meat dishes, too.  If you’re craving a salad, the Asian salad is AWESOME.  It is the only salad served in a restaurant on the island that has mixed greens (bought from nearby Roatan where it’s grown hydroponically, also available for purchase in bags at Bush’s).  You’ll find them next to Parrot’s Dive Center and Tranquila (one of the most popular bars on the island).  For Italian your only option is La Piccola.  The pasta dishes are reportedly prepared daily and are quite good.  They also serve some very tasty bread and have some decent wines.  El Picante advertises themselves as a Mexican restaurant, but that really means it’s Gringo-version Mexican.  The chips are pretty good, and they have some wonderful mixed drinks (try the Chimpanzee or the 800-pound gorilla).  Also a great place for sunset views while dining or drinking.  You’ll find them in the bright yellow building next to the bank.  Che Pancho’s is located at the bookstore/video rental store/cinema.  They serve South American-inspired food as well as Tigger’s local favorite of a bacon hotdog.  They are also my top choice for licuados (basically a smoothie or blended fruit drink).  My favorite meal to get there is the milanesa a caballo (chicken schnitzel served with 2 eggs sunnyside-up resting on top).

Cheap eats:  Want something fairly cheap but don’t care if it’s pretty much American-style food?  Big Mama’s has some excellent chicken poppers and chicken fingers.  I also like their mashed potatoes with gravy.  They’re super nice people and very family friendly.  Seven Seas has better fries and makes a wonderful bacon cheeseburger.  During hot weather they also serve shaved ice treats outside the restaurant.  Blue Shore Cafe has pretty good food with a menu that changes regularly and also has a nice selection of rum infusions.

Breakfast:  Munchie’s and Buccaneer’s serve American breakfasts, as well as continental and tipica styles, and really that’s the only time we go to either one.  The prices are higher, they add on a 10% service fee, plus the 12% government tax, food is completely average, and the service is usually slow and poor.  At Buccaneer’s Tigger’s favorite breakfast is the American and mine is the Two Tank.  Thompson’s Bakery is an excellent breakfast choice.  If you’re jonesing for a bagel, though, head down to Camilla’s Bakery (aka Pizza Nut at 5 PM).  They’re made fresh every morning and are pretty tasty.

Ice Cream:  It gets hot in the Caribbean.  The best ice cream shop we’ve found on Utila is Kob’s located in the Bambino’s grocery store.  They typically shut down during the biggest lull in the tourism season (October through most of January), though.

My top 2 restaurant recommendations are Indian Wok and RJ’s.  If you don’t mind a bar scene, then Skidrow is another great option.  Want to cook at home? No problem. We’ll cover that in a later post.

Utila is one of those places that can easily grab onto you. Most people come here planning on being here for maybe a week or so. Many of them end up staying a month or longer. I like to compare it to the island from the TV show Lost.  Accept it’s easier to get on Utila.

Getting to Utila:  There are a few different options.  If you’re flying into Honduras, the easiest choice is to fly into San Pedro Sula (SAP). From there you can get a connecting flight that will bring you to Utila.  You’ll want to check with the airline first, though, since depending on the season flights are not daily and  usually then only run once or twice a day.  CM Airlines has the best online presence, although SOSA also offers flights to the island, though not as reliably.

By land you take a bus or taxi (costs $120) to La Ceiba (about 3 hours from San Pedro Sula).  Diana Express is the cheaper option and is pretty reliable. If you want a little more comfort, less stops, and a working bathroom on the bus, then you’ll want to take the Hedman Alas bus.  It will cost you about $20 more per person for that option.  Then you just have a potentially interesting ferry ride left. There are 2 ferries currently offering transport to the island; however, at this time I can only recommend the Utila Princess since it runs on a regular schedule (leaves La Ceiba at 9:30 AM and 4 PM). The other option changes their schedule frequently and only runs if they have a set minimum of passengers. Important tip:  If you are prone to motion sickness, you can get free Dramamine at the ticket window. Just ask for it and then take it immediately so it’s in your system. The Princess is often referred to as “the vomit comet” for good reasons.  When on the Princess, esp during hot weather, make sure you sit in the last 2-3 rows.  That’s the only place the air conditioning works well, and it’s less bumpy there.

If you have to stay in La Ceiba overnight or longer, I’d recommend Hotel Rainbow Village (try the pork schnitzel, it’s quite excellent) or Banana Republic (cheapest option, very safe, comfortable, near decent restaurants).  If you want to experience nightlife make sure to go to La Zona Viva.  It’s much safer and is restricted to foreigners per report.

Inside "the vomit comet"

If coming from Roatan, you can either fly direct or you have 2 other options:  Take Captain Vern’s 3-3/4-hour catamaran trip (check out my Roatan or Utila post coming soon) or take the ferry, which is AWESOME, to La Ceiba and then take the ferry to Utila.  Either marine option takes about the same amount of time.  The double ferry is a bit less expensive and somewhat more enjoyable in our opinion (Tigger regularly advises people to take the double ferry option).

Staying on Utila:  Almost every dive shop here offers accommodations.  If you are taking a diving course (which is probably why you’ve even considered coming here), your dive shop will provide free accommodations at the dive center.  Just know that that typically is a dorm room.  Don’t want to stay at a dive shop?  No worries, you have some very good options.  There are some all-inclusive resorts such as Laguna Beach and Coral View Beach Resort & Dive Center.  But there are many options from typical basic backpacker on up.  Be prepared to pay extra if you want air conditioning.  Electricity is SUPER expensive on Utila.  When you leave your hotel room, please turn the A/C off. Some places will fine you if you leave it running when you’re not in the room.

Some of the best choices for lodging are:  Rubi’s Inn, The Lighthouse Hotel, Colibri Hill Resort, and Mango Inn. Lazy Days is another one that gets great reviews from people I know.

If you plan on staying longer ( and you probably will end up being here longer), apartments and houses are very easy to find and are fairly inexpensive. Unless you’re planning on renting your own private island, which you can do here as well.  Apartments in the 200-300 USD per month range are easy to find.  You’ll see plenty of signs while walking around, but you can also use the island’s free apartment finder service (+504 3294-0026).  You may want to avoid the La Loma and The Bush areas.  Some people love them, but they are also areas that are either more remote or experience more theft.  Sandy Bay and The Point are the more common areas to find good housing.  Most places come furnished and include cable/satellite TV, water, and trash.  You’ll have to pay for your own electricity.  Electricity is pay as you go (ask a local how to get to UPCO, which is near the Church of God).  Paying L500 (about $25 USD) lasts us about 2 weeks without A/C.  They’ll give you a slip of paper that has a code on it.  You enter that code into your meter at home and voila!

Getting around:  It’s easy to walk anywhere on the island, but there are places to rent a bicycle, scooter or golf cart (the most expensive option).  There are VERY FEW cars here and none for rent.  If you’re tired of walking, you can also take a tuk-tuk.  You can get around almost anywhere on the island for about $2 per person.  You can either flag them down or ask someone to call one for you.  Unless you’re a large group, I’d call Alejandro (+504 9509-1865), especially if you need an early morning ride to the airport. He is extremely reliable.

Check back in a couple of days for more on visiting this great Caribbean getaway.